90 weight in knuckle

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Had a shop do some work on my 91 and asked them to check the grease in my knuckles and make sure they were full. When I picked up the rig he told me they topped of the knuckles with 90 weight oil. Will this cause any problems. Thanks
 
Hey what's going Nemoy....if they "topped off the knuckles w/90 weight oil", then they def did something wrong. Maybe they added 90 weight oil in your differentials. The knuckle housings need grease, moly grease if I recall correctly. I would double check w/them just to be sure. I want to say that the oil in the knuckle will break down the grease affecting the purpose of the grease to begin with. Long term, that will cause some costly damage. Others can verify if I'm wrong. Hope this helps.
 
knuckles are supposed to have moly grease in them, not gear oil. If the shop actually "topped off your knuckles with 90 weight" then I would never go back there again as they have no idea of what they are doing.
 
Actually, depends ...

Toyota spec is moly grease ...

The housing design is for 90w gear oil with the oil fill plug up top.

What you have is a good, old school mechanic who has worked on other solid axle front ends that use 90w gear oil.

When you asked him to too off the knuckles he did what you requested but didn't check that Yoda's only use grease.

Change out the top fill plug for a zerk fitting and there won't be confusion in the future.

Check your knuckle wipers. If the gear oil is leaking out, worn wipers.

Theoretically, want to run a sludge that will move around to grease the bearings.

Toyota probably spec's moly only for simplicity, but the design is for gear oil.
 
I'd check to see if they in fact did put 90 weight in the knuckle and if they did have them do a free rebuild for you. You could argue that they compromised your seals and bearings and potentially put you and your family in danger.
 
The shop messed up, has happened before when someone assumes our 80 series knuckles take gear oil like a British Land Rover. The gear oil by itself is not directly harmful, but it will cause the grease to break down and turn into a liquid soup, and that will leak out and spew on your tires and could get on your rotors and brake pads causing a safety issue.

The front axle needs to come apart (remove inner and outer shafts, hubs, bearings, rotors, etc) to clean out the soup and clean up the trunnion and wheel bearings, the CV joints, and knuckles which need to be repacked with the correct NLGI #2 Moly fortified grease. Get an estimate from a Toyota dealer before you go back to the shop that messed up, otherwise they will probably try to BS you into thinking everything is OK. But I would not let that shop do the work, just get them to pay for the work and either have a dealer do the work or find someone with Landcruiser experience to fix it. IMO.
 
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That mechanic is a dumbass.
 
Not trying to troll here or create another flame war ...

But the stock plug on top of the housing is oil based design ...

Changing to a zerk plug is cheap money and eliminates the confusion for all parties involved.

Yes, Yoda spec is moly but confusing for non Yoda specific shops.
 
Clarification: change to zerk fitting with correct reducer bushing ...
 
Actually, depends ...

Toyota spec is moly grease ...

The housing design is for 90w gear oil with the oil fill plug up top.

What you have is a good, old school mechanic who has worked on other solid axle front ends that use 90w gear oil.

When you asked him to too off the knuckles he did what you requested but didn't check that Yoda's only use grease.

Change out the top fill plug for a zerk fitting and there won't be confusion in the future.

Check your knuckle wipers. If the gear oil is leaking out, worn wipers.

Theoretically, want to run a sludge that will move around to grease the bearings.

Toyota probably spec's moly only for simplicity, but the design is for gear oil.
You're wrong in so many ways.
 
This housing on the Toyota is VERY similar to the knuckles on other makes, in particular, the 1960 GMC that I used to have. Yes, it took gear oil. However, it had u-joints in the knuckles, NOT Birfields. Birf's have much tighter tolerances and are MUCH smoother power transfer and are more of a constant velocity joint, unlike the old knuckles of yesteryear.

AND....from personal experience, the truck had drum brakes on all four corners and the front ones were always kept well-oiled (meaning the front brakes were non-existant.) and the knuckles leaked CONSTANTLY. At the time, I lived on the farm and that was considered rust-proofing, but you didn't dare park in the girlfriend's driveway with it because it would mark its territory at every opportunity.

GM then switched to sealed u-joints with open housings, an that was a vast improvement for them (much like the Jeeps have...my 1995 Jeep ZJ has them).

Then I see why the Land Cruiser is the "Most Reliable Vehicle on the Planet". Do what it needs and it will be. Pour oil in the knuckles and it won't be...but you'll always be able to tell where you've been.
 
Actually, depends ...

<SNIP>

The housing design is for 90w gear oil with the oil fill plug up top.

<SNIP>

Toyota probably spec's moly only for simplicity, but the design is for gear oil.


Where did this come from?


Check your knuckle wipers. If the gear oil is leaking out, worn wipers.

Not exactly. The only time gear oil will leak out of the knucke is if there is gear oil in the knuckle. You see it is not supposed to be there in the first place and the ball wipers and trunion bearings are not designed to hold it back.
 
Thanks for all the replies, the shop that did the work is actually a very good shop and I know he will make it right. I am not looking to get anything for free or benefit from his mistake I just wanted to make sure that this was actually a problem before I talk to him friday. thanks again for the replies
 
;)

"No comment!"
 
Actually, depends ...

Not so much.

Toyota spec is moly grease ...

Correct.

The housing design is for 90w gear oil with the oil fill plug up top.

Nope, the '80 series knuckle was designed for moly grease.

What you have is a good, old school mechanic who has worked on other solid axle front ends that use 90w gear oil.

When you asked him to too off the knuckles he did what you requested but didn't check that Yoda's only use grease.

Not much of a "mechanic" if he can't be bothered to check the spec for the lube on the device that he is working on.

Change out the top fill plug for a zerk fitting and there won't be confusion in the future.

Without looking in there, how would you know how much if any was needed? Have you ever tried to pump half a tube of moly through a zerk, lots of work. When several ounces of grease goes in, something has to come out, the knuckles don't have breathers, so pumping through a zerk would pressurize the knuckle, pushing grease into the wheel bearings, axle housing, etc, I would prefer it to come out the fill hole as designed. The "problem" is easily solved, don't let the ignorant touch it!:hillbilly:

Check your knuckle wipers. If the gear oil is leaking out, worn wipers.

Nope, if gear oil is leaking out the wipers, the axle seal has failed, or some dumb :censor: put the wrong lube.

Theoretically, want to run a sludge that will move around to grease the bearings.

Correct, it's called moly grease.
 
The plug in the top of the knuckle isn't really for adding anything. It is an inspection port.

If your mechanic wasn't paying attention and actually filled the knuckles with oil, nothing will be HURT (except a few butts around here apparently :flipoff2:). What you'll notice is oil seeping from the knuckles and dripping down on the ground and maybe the edge of the tires. Its a bitch to clean off, but really, it won't hurt anything. I don't see a path for it to get ON the brakes and cause any issues. Just a mess.

I wouldn't try to get him to do a rebuild for free. If you haven't already done one, it probably needs one anyway. That is a little unfair to have him do a bunch of free work to fix a mistake. If you trust him to do the rebuild, gather some resources to show him the proper method, torque specs and lube, buy the parts from beno or CDan and have him go at it. If you feel any refund is in order, maybe ask to have the cost of the original mistake refunded or deducted from his bill. Hopefully he'll offer that at least.

Good Luck!
 
I would agree, having the mechanic rebuild the front axle for free would be too much, maybe ask for an oil change with no charge for labor. But IMHO I think he needs to feel a tiny bit of pain so next time he'll check some reference before dumping gear oil in the wrong place. No permanent damage done luckily, it will just start making a mess over the next few weeks and months.
 
Mechanic followed customer request. Top off the knuckles. Found a gear oil fill plug, checked level, and added gear oil.

IMNSHO ... 9 times outta 10 if you roll an FJ80 into a shop and ask them to "top off" the knuckles your gonna get them topped off with gear oil.

The whole point in replacing the "inspection port" plug with a zerk and adapter bushing is to get the average mechanic to stop and thing grease instead of gear oil.

This isn't the first time this has happened and pretty darn sure isn't the last time unfortunately either.
 

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