89 P/U, new motor, barely cranks and won't start, code 51??

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A

armstrong486

10 Year
Joined
Jul 18, 2015
Threads
9
Messages
33
Location
Boise, Idaho
Hey guys, long story short I just put a new 22RE in my 5speed 4x4 '89 pickup. Filled all the fluids, went to go start her up, and it cranks (sounds like it's struggling), but won't start. Shows engine code 51.

I know I'm getting fuel, I can smell it when the pump primes, and I know it's got power, I got a brand new battery because it sounded like it didn't have enough power to start. Even with the new battery, it won't crank long enough to start. Any ideas? I did some research and I'm finding a million different answers for code 51. I figured if I give the circumstances and what I've already done, you guys would be able to narrow it down for me. Thanks
 
The codes on my 85 don't go that high. From my 3FE book, it's no IDL signal. There are two places that generate this signal, IIRC. One is the TPS. And I think the other is the AFM.

TPS: are you sure it's adjusted correctly?
AFM: Is the connector hooked up? Is the intake tube from the airbox to the throttle body hooked up? If the AFM doesn't "feel" air through it the fuel pump won't be triggered. Now that I think about it, it's not an IDL signal, but something else.

Are you sure your distributor was installed correctly? If off a tooth it won't start, or run real crappy. BTDT.

If you short the fuel pump test connection (+B and FP in the diagnostic box) can you hear the fuel pump in the tank running with the engine off? With a new install you might need to "prime" the fuel lines. Even then, it can take some cranks to get fuel to the injectors from the rail.

Check your grounds. There is one at the back of the engine to the firewall. There is another from the passenger side fender to the engine near the AC. If you need to, just use a jumper cable from the negative side of the battery to the engine and rule this out. This might be why your starter is sluggish.
 
@pappy early 22re's have different codes then the later models.
@armstrong486 did you hook up the little wire that goes to the starter? It's a small male wire that slides onto a covered female terminal.
SWITCH SIGNALS

IDL (tps) CONTACTS OFF, NEUTRAL START SWITCH OFF, A/C SWITCH "ON" SIGNAL TO ECU

WITH DIAGNOSTIC CHECK CONNECTOR SHORTED

--A/C SWITCH/CIRCUIT

--A/C AMPLIFIER

--TPS/CIRCUIT

--NEUTRAL START SWITCH/CIRCUIT

--ECU
 
Thanks, yea my starter is hooked up properly, and I had the ground from the engine harness in the wrong spot. It was grounded to the body and not the intake manifold. I grounded it to the intake manifold and it still won't start. It tries to but it just turns over for a bit then dies. It sounds like there's some resistance. It turns over briefly, then just stops, almost as if the battery is dead, but I have a brand new battery in it
 
Nope, I got a brand new starter, and when i crank it, it fires up and spins the flywheel, it only does it for half a second or a full second if I'm lucky, then just dies out almost as if the battery is dead. It's making me think it's a bad ground. If it was cranking continuously, but just not starting, id think maybe TPS or timing, but it Barely cranks for a whole second before dying out
 
I'm a little confused. Does the engine light then quit? Or does the starter spin then quit?
 
Starter cranks, real slowly for half a second or so, almost as if it's struggling, then just quits. Doesn't even crank long enough to start the engine. Bad starter ground maybe?
 
have you had the battery tested?- OK, brand new battery...have you tested the battery cables? I have had them go bad on the inside of the jacket- only found by replacing for squirts and grins with new ones...
 
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