88 FJ62-Vortec 5.3L Re-Power & more....VIDEO ADDED

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Your motor is up on a stand now Mark, will be taking the harness off today.
 
Looks a lot cleaner with the harness removed.

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Just put this, in that no problem...............

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Power train out and on the floor

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Cool build. Any chance you can post some info on hooking up the AC as far as how you get the hoses made , wiring , etc. when you get to that point? I'd really appreciate it. I am almost done with my fj60 ,5.3, nv4500 swap but still need to finish the ac. It would be cool to get some "real time" info if it's not too much hassle.
 
I have the hoses made up locally at a shop with a hose crimping machine.
 
Rest assured that when you bring your truck to HFS it will be guarded with state of the art security.

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If you take a close look at the frame in the photo in the previous post you will notice that the frame horns lean to the driver's side and the front cross member is mangled. Both of the angle braces are bent and there is a tear just aft of the DS brace that was booger welded back up, I can still stick my finger in a hole on the inside bottom corner. This truck was hit pretty hard and whomever "tried" to pull it straight actually made it worse, according to the frame guy. He did not want to mess with it as the frame has already been stressed to the point it is suspect. All this in mind, the owner and I chose to replace the frame to better accommodate the new power plant with double the HP and torque. The owner likes what I did with the shop's 80 frame so the new frame will be stripped to bare metal and painted smoke gray. All new OEM body mounts will also be used.

Brought this donor frame back to the shop yesterday

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Drool worthy.

Y'all don't get much rust down there, do you? Those frames are CLEAN!
 
I can't imagine that was a fun conversation with the owner. Good on ya

You are correct. Fortunately this customer is realistic and understands this kind of thing. I am often the bearer of bad tidings like this, bad news please do not shoot the messenger.

Drool worthy.

Y'all don't get much rust down there, do you? Those frames are CLEAN!

Not nearly the rust seen up north and in the rust belt.

good move on replacing the frame. got to have a good foundation for that new motor :)

Paying to try and fix this frame was just not worth the time and money involved. I was fortunate to find a donor truck in such a short time frame.
 
OK, I have looked here and on on your website. I really like what I see.
I spoke with Erymer on the site. You made the expanded metal sliders on his white 80.
He had nothing but great things to say about you guys, your shop and the work you do!
His sliders look great! Very nice guys!!

As my motor turns up the miles, I realize in the future (probably not too distant) I will be looking
for a swap and yours surely fits the bill + you guys are within driving distance! :steer:
I have a couple of questions….

I know every build is different and requires different fabwork, challenges, etc…
I was wondering however, if you could give us a ballpark or what a swap like this runs.
I'd like to start putting back. I understand if you are not comfortable disclosing, but
just didn't know if this was a $5,000 swap or a $25,000 + situation. And whether it would
be a financially possible option down the road. Please don't take insult. Just curious.

Also I read that you use all new gauges. Can you adapt to the stock gauges to give that
OEM Toyota feel behind the wheel?

You guys are right, I like the origonal Toyota setup and never thought I'd stray, but the thought
of that power and towing capacity are very intriging .
Keep up the great work, I'll be watching!
 
Thank you very much, Erymer is a good guy!

No problem asking, the base price for the swap is $18K and includes all the items listed on the web site.
I use new Autometer gauges for a reason. They are far more accurate than the stock gauges, half way up the temp gauge or C and a half just does not work for me. There are no "hacks" involved in making the gauges work and it keeps the motor and trans stand alone in relation to how much interface there is with the host truck. Check out the Autometer site, they have a lot of very cool gauge styles to choose from. I even install a new float in the fuel tank specifically designed to work with the Autometer fuel gauge. Oil pressure, temp and voltmeter all are calibrated and use numbers throughout the range.

Feel free to contact me directly and I will be happy to answer any questions you have.

I am a one man shop :)

Stan
 
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Why not use a scan gauge or other pcm based gauge cluster instead of the autometers? There are several really neat ones on the market that interface directly with the obdII port for complete engine information AND OBDII diagnostics. Tells you SOOO much more info than the few gauges too.

cheers
 

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