84 fj60 manifold woes

[Captron]

Wow, I feel pretty stupid. It would have taken me forever to try and turn the motor until the points were open!
I assume the distributor came with it. It's dark red cap and has a rubber boot to protect it from mud I guess?

 

[fjc-man]

Try @4Cruisers. He rebuilds these distributors.

 

[4Cruisers]

The crusty component is the signal generator. From the looks of it I think it's shot. You can test it by measuring the resistance at the connector outside the distributor, the resistance measured across the two pins in the connector should be between 100 and 200 ohms. Do you have a digital multimeter?

I have a refurbished FJ60 distributor almost ready to go out the door, PM me if interested. Depending on the condition of your current distributor, I may be interested in taking it as a core to offset some of your cost.

 

[Captron]

Thanks! I'll measure the resistance across the pins like you suggested and report back. Definitely interested in a refurbished unit. I'll PM you.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Thanks! I'll measure the resistance across the pins like you suggested and report back. Definitely interested in a refurbished unit. I'll PM you.

John / @4Cruisers is the most qualified SUPPORTING VENDOR to handle ANY NipponDenso Distributer Issue or problem , i take all my work to him because he is a

Specialized Technion that has Re-Wound TIME to better serve the Vintage TOYOTA Community as a whole ..........



Always Exceeds my expectations , bottom line ...........

thanks John .. ​

 

[Captron]

Surprisingly, it tests at 163 ohm. Ill look around for other tests but if someone can suggest tests that one person can do that would be great. Maybe point timing light towards cab while I crank? Testing plug wires and coil to distributor wire

 

[Captron]

Omg it instantly bstarted up!!!!!!

 

[Captron]

About to drive this bitch around the neighborhood with no brakes!!!

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Looks like you either need to send you distributor out for rebuild or shop for a decent used one. That’s a FJ60 big cap distributor, right? Those are electronic by the way, no points.

good advice and call @fjc-man , i agree

i hope all is well with you too

kindly matt

 

[ToyotaMatt]

About to drive this bitch around the neighborhood with no brakes!!!

whats the weather like right now


cool hot dry humid

record ambient conditions right away asap
they play a factor here 100% solid !

 

[Captron]

Dry for Houston (87°, 59% humidity). I'm going to actually bleed brakes, finish exhaust and hopefully cruise by sundown! Oh, probably reinstate insurance. I wonder if messing with distributor might have free'd the mechanism. Sort of want to clean up the internals a bit but probably should leave well enough alone. Will also test the pressure actuated valve that evacuates gases from the distributor. It tested fine a couple years ago. Cabin filter is in dire need of change

 

[Captron]

Well, finished bleeding brakes and fashioned a temporary exhaust hanger. Cranked it and no start. (87°, 67% humidity). My timing light showed no fire in main coil wire to distributor. I didn't test the coil again. My guess is ignitor problem. It has one of those despicable T-tap clips that allow you to easily tap into a wire and regret it later. I have a spare ignitor that looks like an unused ignitor with some oxidation on connectors but I bet it's a good unit. I might try removing that T-tap first though

 

[Seth S]

Well, finished bleeding brakes and fashioned a temporary exhaust hanger. Cranked it and no start. (87°, 67% humidity). My timing light showed no fire in main coil wire to distributor. I didn't test the coil again. My guess is ignitor problem. It has one of those despicable T-tap clips that allow you to easily tap into a wire and regret it later. I have a spare ignitor that looks like an unused ignitor with some oxidation on connectors but I bet it's a good unit. I might try removing that T-tap first though

Crimp-locks. The work of the devil.

 

[cps432]

Crimp-locks. The work of the devil.

I found some of those in my dash and couldn’t for the life of me figure out what they were. Did some internet searching and was absolutely horrified when I learned what they were. Whhhhhhhyyyyyy?????? Who thought that was a good idea???

 

[fjc-man]

Crimp-locks. The work of the devil.

You mean 3M scotch locks?

 

[Captron]

You mean 3M scotch locks?

The devil has many names and faces. This one looks really old with some text on it so I originally thought it might be some old Toyota connection. I should post a pic just for the laughs because the end of the live wire is just sort of tied off and dangling in the engine bay. This would be the second instance of live unprotected wires I've discovered. I wonder how many more there are. I think I'll check my fire extinguisher while I'm at it.

 

[Captron]

The red junction is an old Scotchlock or equivalent from 3M. The logo was different from what I'm used to so it must be really old. Unfortunately, I removed it, resoldered/crip connected the wire back together and still no firing. I'll check the new coil and look for spark in the coil to distributor wire using my induction timing light.
I was assuming that if I don't see spark coming out of the coil and into the distributor then the problem must be the coil, the ignitor or the ignition circuit. However, the ignitor also has a wire going into the distributor so it may not be a simple upstream/downstream thing. Could a fault in the distributor feedback to prevent it from receiving spark from the coil?

 

[ToyotaMatt]

how are things going ?

made a bit of progress >

 

[Captron]

Well, Not running seems to be the new default state. But, I've certainly learned a lot in the last 9 mo and addressed several issues that needed taking care of. hopefully I will be able to spend some time on it this weekend and sort it all out.

 

[cps432]

I managed to get manifolds on and, by pouring gas into the carb, got it started about 2 months ago. I've since replaced the fuel pump and gas now fills the filter. Now a no start problem is probably a no spark issue. I replaced coil and it tests good as well as the ignition circuit. next I wanted to test the ignitor based on Pin_Head's rec on an old post. I took dizzy cover off to see if points were open (not sure what that looks like exactly). I noticed quite a bit of corrosion on the components near the bottom of the dizzy. I'm guessing that this is the capacitor. I also noticed that the rotor doesn't look great with some corrosion. I previously took some sand paper to the rotor and points without success. I'm wondering if I should replace the entire distributor or just the cap, rotor and the corroded parts at the bottom.

View attachment 2802223

Did you ever address this mess? All that corrosion is really bad and would keep you from getting spark. If you haven’t fixed the dizzy that would be my next suggestion.