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- #21
I got new bolts and a tap to fix the threads from McMaster-Carr. Got it back together and ready for machine shop next week
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84 fj60 manifold woes
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- #22
Rear wheels have locked up and I can't seem to get rear drum off. I've stripped the Phillips head. I guess I should now drill it out. Any ideas for drill bit size?
IIRC that's an 8mm or so bolt holding the drum. You could use a stepped bit, but I'd use an impact driver first, if you have one. The drums may be stuck 'cuz you need to back off the adjuster a little, so the drum can clear the shoes.
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- #24
Thanks! I tried like hell to contort myself back there but can't seem to loosen the star bolt. I'm certainly pushing something out of the way to allow star bolt to come back but just can't get purchase on the star part
It's probably frozen. Common.
Yes, there is a lever that meshes with the 'Teeth' of the star to adjust the shoes when the parking brake is applied.
After you get the screw out, hit the drums with a rubber mallet on opposite sides to force the shoes back.
A tool like this helps:
Yes, there is a lever that meshes with the 'Teeth' of the star to adjust the shoes when the parking brake is applied.
After you get the screw out, hit the drums with a rubber mallet on opposite sides to force the shoes back.
A tool like this helps:
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- #26
Well I broke off a bolt extractor trying to get the screw out. FML im done with this s***!
Which screw? The one holding the drum ?
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- #29
Yep, the screw holding the drum. I think the broken extractor is deep enough that I might be able to drill around edge to release head of screw. I bought an impact driver so hopefully the other side will not be a problem
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- #30
Head of the screw came off very easily. I was making a mountain out of mole hill. Hopefully will get drums off next weekend
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- #31
Finally got driver's side drum off. Now I can see I was tightening the star bolt all the way down. This makes both turning it further and getting the drum off a bit more difficult. Do not recommend. I misinterpreted the fsm. To loosen, I should have been using the top of the sight window as a fulcrum. This is counter-clockwise when facing towards the rear of the vehicle and towards the threads. I think this means that the star bolt is reverse threaded. Hopefully it will be easier to fet my bearings on the other side
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- #32
Yeah, other side was cake. Impact driver was a $100 miracle on the drum screw. Loosening starbolt was no problem and drum came off with the help of two class 10.9 M8-1.25 x 16mn bolts. Driver's side was so bound up I had to use x 60mm bolts. Not sure why brakes are dragging. Loosening star bolt should have freed them up. Couldn't hardly move tire before I took drums off. Noticed what looks like red grease behind cylinder boot. This cylinder also had surface rust while passenger side didn't. Shoes have 1/4" or so but will probably replace them along with cylinders and springs. Seems I will never get this thing back on the road
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- #33
I just spent $300 bucks buying oem shoes, cylinders, adjuster starbolts. Someone please tell me I'm not a sucker 
Yeah, you're a sucker all right, I mean, you only got almost 40 years outta the originals ... What a rip off!
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- #35
Yeah, I'm a cheap skate and yet a recent OEM convert or almost there. I had the original cylinders replaced like 5 years ago and a couple thousand miles later one is already failing!? I still won't do yota filters yet but perhaps I need to educate myself
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- #36
I'm waiting on manifold to get machined and brake parts to come in. I'd like to get on board air finished so I can cross at least one thing off the list. The belt I have used before is Gates Green stripe TR22434 but it is ridiculously hard to get on and I'm afraid of damaging pulleys/shafts with my screwdriver. I'd like to a try 0.5-1" longer belt. The "effective length" of TR22434 is 43.39". After several hours looking I finally figured out that Gates does not consider a truck belt to be an automotive belt. I found the next size up on Amazon (TR22443). Sorry for the pointless post but often simply asking the question gives you the answer.
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- #37
The machine shop didn't feel comfortable planing the surface because one of the horns seemed to be pulled out more than the other. I got it back, reassembled on the engine with torque specs and measured the gaps at the horns. Front horn has 7/32" (6mm) gap while the back is 4/32" (3mm). Is this normal?
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- #38
I managed to get manifolds on and, by pouring gas into the carb, got it started about 2 months ago. I've since replaced the fuel pump and gas now fills the filter. Now a no start problem is probably a no spark issue. I replaced coil and it tests good as well as the ignition circuit. next I wanted to test the ignitor based on Pin_Head's rec on an old post. I took dizzy cover off to see if points were open (not sure what that looks like exactly). I noticed quite a bit of corrosion on the components near the bottom of the dizzy. I'm guessing that this is the capacitor. I also noticed that the rotor doesn't look great with some corrosion. I previously took some sand paper to the rotor and points without success. I'm wondering if I should replace the entire distributor or just the cap, rotor and the corroded parts at the bottom.
Looks like you either need to send you distributor out for rebuild or shop for a decent used one. That’s a FJ60 big cap distributor, right? Those are electronic by the way, no points.
Points are old school way of spark timing in a distributor. A points distributor has a shaft with a raised contour…a cam lobe that is aligned with TDC. The points are two little metal contacts attached to a pivot and one is on an arm that rides on the distributor shaft. When the high spot rotates around it forces the points apart. Electrics current flows from point to point when they are closed…stops when they are open. Points have a gap that gets set and they can burn out over time.
Your truck has a more modern electronic distributor. No points to worry about.