83 FJ60 Normal Idle Speed

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John Staton

John Staton

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Joined
Oct 23, 2017
Threads
101
Messages
1,126
Location
The Woodlands, TX
can someone tell me a good RPM at idle? When I got my FJ it ran pretty rough. I have had a few things done to it, including getting the AC going again and my mechanic had adjusted the idle speed and it seems high to me. Idles at 1500 RPM.
FJ60Lift.webp
 
It should idle at 650-700rpm.

Check the Idle Control Solenoid?

Verify correct timing.
 
thanks that is helpful. Getting tie rods and replaced and radiator refurbished (small leak) now and they will get the idle speed down for me at the same time. Gees...I am never going to get to my H55 at this rate. Hopefully Q1 of next year.
 
I had mine up to 1200 for my DEQ test. Stock is 650 on the FJ60. If you look inside your engine bay on the fender the listings are there for that model.
 
Mine idles at 1000 rpm once it is warmed up. I have not spent any time with the idle settings a I still need to replace all the vacuum lines, check the timing, and check the valve clearances.
 
Came across this thread while researching and hoping someone can shed some light on my issue. At start, my idle is smooth around 700RPM. As soon as the engine warms up, the idle rises to about 1100-1200 RPMs and remains constant. My question is what to adjust? Seems to me something is triggering the idle to increase after the engine reaches normal operating temp, but I'm not sure where to start.
 
Since original post, I got my desogged, weber carb, headers and my idle is generally around 650-700. Occasionally it will be around 1200 and I gas it and it settles back down. My generally drops a bit when I have the AC on, but I am happy with the end result since the work. I used to have rough idle, even die around corners but now it runs like a top. Has me reconsidering the H55 and just having my 4 speed rebuilt and putting the $$ into other areas (new carpet for example).
 
scottcb said:
Came across this thread while researching and hoping someone can shed some light on my issue. At start, my idle is smooth around 700RPM. As soon as the engine warms up, the idle rises to about 1100-1200 RPMs and remains constant. My question is what to adjust? Seems to me something is triggering the idle to increase after the engine reaches normal operating temp, but I'm not sure where to start.
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did you ever get your idle issue solved? My 60 does the same thing.
 
It's not an "issue". That's how a carbureted engine works — really inefficient when cold (with slow idle) then better when warmed up with hot oil circulating. It's normal for the 2F and the choke knob is there to manually tweak the idle if necessary
 
OSS said:
It's not an "issue". That's how a carbureted engine works — really inefficient when cold (with slow idle) then better when warmed up with hot oil circulating. It's normal for the 2F and the choke knob is there to manually tweak the idle if necessary
Click to expand...

What's funny is that it just started acting this way...prior it was idling fine around 700 without having to fiddle with choke
 
I’m chiming in here since I’m curious about the idle on my 60.

While doing my cooling system bleed, I was getting a high idle of about 2k RPM

It has now dropped to roughly 1300 upon initial start and gradually to 1000 and it seems to be holding around there.
 
normal idle speed is 650. I have a weber carb on mine and it idles a tad higher, but i was told that 650 is normal after idle down.
 
John Staton said:
normal idle speed is 650. I have a weber carb on mine and it idles a tad higher, but i was told that 650 is normal after idle down.
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Right, that’s what I had been reading/seeing.

I typically have to pull the choke on mine and give it a few taps on the gas to start up, but yeah I’m getting 2x the “spec”. And if I disengage the choke, that just kills the engine.
 
GojiraFJ60 said:
I typically have to pull the choke on mine and give it a few taps on the gas to start up, but yeah I’m getting 2x the “spec”. And if I disengage the choke, that just kills the engine.
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So the truck will not run if the choke is off (pushed in all the way) ?
 
GojiraFJ60 said:
Right, that’s what I had been reading/seeing.

I typically have to pull the choke on mine and give it a few taps on the gas to start up, but yeah I’m getting 2x the “spec”. And if I disengage the choke, that just kills the engine.
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you probably need to get your carburetor rebuilt. I am not a great mechanic and the guy I use was very comfortable putting a weber 38/38 on the truck and tunning it for me and I have been very happy. There are plenty of purist on the site that would love to see you send the carb to some landcruiser carb guru and get it rebuilt and keep it all OEM. If you have the time and the patience for that go for it...but I have some hunting and fishing to do and dont have time for that. When I got mine back it was idling high and would stumble when I shut the engine off (dieseling). We had to open the jets a bit to get the idle down to around 700 and prevent any stumbling after you turned it off. Runs great. Note that I also desmogged it at the same time and added headers. Oh and also an H55 5speed upgrade....runs like a champ. Good luck.
FJ60Dec24.webp
 
Spike Strip said:
So the truck will not run if the choke is off (pushed in all the way) ?
Click to expand...
Yeah if I push the choke it, that kills the engine.

I’ve been talking with HemiAlex too and it seems to be a vacuum leak (major according to him); I just had my truck running and it was at 2000, then it climbed to 3 (keep in mind I’m trying to find this “leak” with brake cleaner and maybe my eyes aren’t trained enough to see, but I wasn’t seeing anything abnormal), and then it just died on its own. That’s how him and I came to the conclusion of a vacuum leak.

I’m aware of the PCV as well, I haven’t looked at it yet as I was focused on the carb initially. Just eliminating options one by one.
 
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