sensor wire ok, plugged in?
80 Series General Tech and Classifieds
- Thread starter MEMCruiser
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sensor wire ok, plugged in?
- Thread starter
- #1,943
We drove for years without that fancy stuff.
wngrog said:
Sell that thing! I will give you $1000.00 cash(some quarters too). don't want drive with out no brakes do you?
Sometimes after bleeding the brakes on my 80 I have to add more fluid to the reservoir after a few days. The ABS light comes on to remind me 
Just thought....
Just thought....
Sometimes after bleeding the brakes on my 80 I have to add more fluid to the reservoir after a few days. The ABS light comes on to remind me
Just thought....
Yeah...it the fluid level, uh, level? The ABS light came on in Janae's and I checked to find it low...filled to line and good-to-go.
You need to lose that spare tire of yours Mr. Where to eat.
Or
You didnt put ABS sensor back in.
; )
- Thread starter
- #1,950
She was hoping for a nice Cabernet.
- Thread starter
- #1,951
It was noted in another thread that shocks were not required for a car to be road worthy. I can confirm that as I drove my junk to the crawl with essentially no shocks. In fact the lower bushings on the rear shocks had disintegrated, and I had to zip tie both rear shocks to the shock brackets just to reduce the noise from them rattling about.
I ordered shocks (and new rear springs) when I got back and set off to replace them this weekend. Front was pretty easy except for the fact that the driver's side upper stud is directly under the master cylinder and there's virtually no room in that area to turn a wrench. The rear was another story altogether.
I had read numerous threads/how-to's which warned about breaking off the rear lower shock bolts, and I took just about every precaution I came across - soaked the bolts best I could every day (and sometimes twice a day) for over a week with PB blaster, beat on the bolts a bit before trying to break them loose, tried to actually tighten them before trying to break them loose, and used a ratchet and cheater pipe (as opposed to an impact) to apply gentle constant pressure as I tried to loosen them. The only thing I didn't have at my disposal was a heat source...and that is probably why I broke both bolts off.
After reading all those threads ahead of time, this seemed like a very common occurrence and I was prepared to have to drill the bolts out and re-tap the threads. What I was not prepared for was the amount of work involved in doing so. I read one thread where a shop quoted the owner 5 hours of labor to do this. At the time that sounded ridiculous, but after last night I can confirm this too.
I'll be the first to admit that I'm learning about this stuff as I go, but last night involved about 3 hours of this process - get under one side of the truck, contort body into very uncomfortable position that allows you to both obtain leverage on the drill and keep the bit in line with the boss (or whatever that thing the shock bolt goes into is called), drill at a slow speed until the material gets hot or your body gives out from holding the jacked up yoga like pose, clean hole and drill bit and apply oil, move to other side of the truck, and repeat...going back and forth until both sides are completely drilled out.
Eventually I made it through and was able to tap new threads and get new bolts in (although they are too long and will either need to be cut down or replaced). This isn't cotton field sexy, but here's a pic for posterity:
I ordered shocks (and new rear springs) when I got back and set off to replace them this weekend. Front was pretty easy except for the fact that the driver's side upper stud is directly under the master cylinder and there's virtually no room in that area to turn a wrench. The rear was another story altogether.
I had read numerous threads/how-to's which warned about breaking off the rear lower shock bolts, and I took just about every precaution I came across - soaked the bolts best I could every day (and sometimes twice a day) for over a week with PB blaster, beat on the bolts a bit before trying to break them loose, tried to actually tighten them before trying to break them loose, and used a ratchet and cheater pipe (as opposed to an impact) to apply gentle constant pressure as I tried to loosen them. The only thing I didn't have at my disposal was a heat source...and that is probably why I broke both bolts off.
After reading all those threads ahead of time, this seemed like a very common occurrence and I was prepared to have to drill the bolts out and re-tap the threads. What I was not prepared for was the amount of work involved in doing so. I read one thread where a shop quoted the owner 5 hours of labor to do this. At the time that sounded ridiculous, but after last night I can confirm this too.
I'll be the first to admit that I'm learning about this stuff as I go, but last night involved about 3 hours of this process - get under one side of the truck, contort body into very uncomfortable position that allows you to both obtain leverage on the drill and keep the bit in line with the boss (or whatever that thing the shock bolt goes into is called), drill at a slow speed until the material gets hot or your body gives out from holding the jacked up yoga like pose, clean hole and drill bit and apply oil, move to other side of the truck, and repeat...going back and forth until both sides are completely drilled out.
Eventually I made it through and was able to tap new threads and get new bolts in (although they are too long and will either need to be cut down or replaced). This isn't cotton field sexy, but here's a pic for posterity:
Get it JT! Need to get you some Kriol best penetrating oil I have ever used. And I used a lot on my 80. I ordered it online. Extensions and swivels on the front drivers side shock.
Nonsense...8mm on the top of the stud wedged delicately so as not to put pressure on any nearby hoses/lines and about 1700 quarter inch movements with the open end of a much too long 19mm wrench...it's only time, right?
In the 100 thread you mentioned using Hippo liner on your 80 when you removed your flares. How much did it take, and what did you do (if anything) to fill the holes in the body first? I started my de-flare project at the crawl and have been working on it in parallel to the shock project. I've got the flares off and all the plugs and rivets out...just have to pick a product and decide what to do about filling the holes.
^ awesomeness. what a great quote!
this is on topic (shocks) but for my 100.
Lowe toyota sent me some odd looking bushing, what's it for? I needed one for the lower/rear shock stem mount so it's:
stem with bushing, then shock, then bushing, then shock bolt.
You are going to love this! I used metal duct tape, cut small squares of it about 1"x1"
. You could see the out line of them if you looked hard enough but if you ever wanted to put the flares back on you could just punch a hole through it. I used a quart of hippo liner and had a little less than half left over. It can be tinted close to your factory paint. I used a roller and brush to apply. I put on 7-8 coats, did not take long because by the time I went around the truck I could start at the first one. It does not take long to get tacky dry. I also only did the the outline were the flare was so if put back on you would not see the liner. Good Luck!
Thanks. I've read a lot of threads about folks using metal/aluminum tape...I just couldn't get a clear answer as to whether or not the raised area would show through the liner.
I might end up trying some epoxy putty that can be sanded smooth.
We'll see...
Did you just see my post? You may just need glasses then,Oldielocks.
JT getting after it! F those bolts! you didn't like em anyway!