Congratulations. That is some determination in this cold weather. Now lets see some action videos 
.
.
79 2F transplant into the 55
- Thread starter jfz80
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Not to worry right there with you Jason. You'll find, like I did, if you get a garage the damn truck won't fit in there anyway. Had to do a full axle rebuild on mine and brake replacement in 19 degree weather and the wind blowing last year. Working on your truck in that weather takes determination. Drink a beer you'll feel better
jfz80
Cruisin’
- Thread starter
- #83
Anyone near High Point have a timing light?
Dug mine outta the bottom drawer and it doesnt seem to light anymore
Also, What are the thoughts about towing it to alamance mufflers and driving it home for the break in period. It needs to run 25-30 min at varying rpms through all the gears and it needs but it needs an exhaust first. IF only there was someone with a turbo diesel and trailer around here
I was going to try and set the timing and fix the choke cable tonight and possibly tow it down in the am.
also.... how long would you suspect for the engine temps to rise?
I am pretty sure im just not giving it long enough, plus from all the rebuild threads it is suggested not to tinker much on a fresh engine but rather go right out and drive it like its made of glass and get it good and hot and then come back for the valve adjustment. again in 500 miles.
and it sure does shake alot. I retourqed the motor mounts but remember the F being a lot smoother.
Dug mine outta the bottom drawer and it doesnt seem to light anymore
Also, What are the thoughts about towing it to alamance mufflers and driving it home for the break in period. It needs to run 25-30 min at varying rpms through all the gears and it needs but it needs an exhaust first. IF only there was someone with a turbo diesel and trailer around here
I was going to try and set the timing and fix the choke cable tonight and possibly tow it down in the am.
also.... how long would you suspect for the engine temps to rise?
I am pretty sure im just not giving it long enough, plus from all the rebuild threads it is suggested not to tinker much on a fresh engine but rather go right out and drive it like its made of glass and get it good and hot and then come back for the valve adjustment. again in 500 miles.
and it sure does shake alot. I retourqed the motor mounts but remember the F being a lot smoother.
Couple of thoughts. It's possible to get air pockets in the head at start up - which can make the temp gauge do weird things. With the engine off and cold, loosen one of the plugs at the back of the head where the water temp sender is or the one behind it. If antifreeze comes out then it's probably ok but you might also try jacking up the rear of the truck to make that part of the head higher than the front of the engine so the air pocket will travel up to it and go out through the loose fitting.
Break in recommendations are usually geared around cam break in - they want you to vary the speed of the engine mainly so the cam gets plenty of splash oil and doesn't run dry at all until it's broken in. If you're reusing your old cam this won't be as big of an issue and you can drive it around - just try not to maintain a constant speed - speeding up and slowing down alternately create rich and lean conditions in the cylinders - helping the rings to break in. Just keep an eye on your temp and oil pressure and stop periodically to make sure nothing sprang a leak.
Rough running could be timing, a vac leak at the carb, and/or valve adjustment. Putting an exhaust system on it will change the equation as well so I'd probably get it to run as best you can now but don't fine tune it until after it has the restriction of a new exh system in place so you can really get a feel for how it's running. Try the idle mixture screw on the carb to see if you can richen or lean out the air/fuel at idle - that may help quite a bit.
HTH - Mike
Break in recommendations are usually geared around cam break in - they want you to vary the speed of the engine mainly so the cam gets plenty of splash oil and doesn't run dry at all until it's broken in. If you're reusing your old cam this won't be as big of an issue and you can drive it around - just try not to maintain a constant speed - speeding up and slowing down alternately create rich and lean conditions in the cylinders - helping the rings to break in. Just keep an eye on your temp and oil pressure and stop periodically to make sure nothing sprang a leak.
Rough running could be timing, a vac leak at the carb, and/or valve adjustment. Putting an exhaust system on it will change the equation as well so I'd probably get it to run as best you can now but don't fine tune it until after it has the restriction of a new exh system in place so you can really get a feel for how it's running. Try the idle mixture screw on the carb to see if you can richen or lean out the air/fuel at idle - that may help quite a bit.
HTH - Mike
S4Cruiser
SILVER Star
IF only there was someone with a turbo diesel and trailer around here
There was one on Monday but towing was the last thing on my mind
.That gear wrench is never leaving the truck!!
jfz80
Cruisin’
- Thread starter
- #87
man talk about your neglected projects.....
Im looking forward to the cold wrenching weather already after a couple days under the hood.
I cant seem to dial in the timing just right. Reinstalled the dizzy one tooth over to get a few more degrees of adj. in the direction needed to find the sweet spot. Got it to fire (btw keep your fingers outta the coil when the key is in the ign) and tweaked enough to run well....untill it warmed up. Now I can retard it enough to run without backfiring but it knocks and adversely I can adjust to where it wont knock but builds pressure and backfires w/ regularity (30 sec intervals) Its more of a pressure blows fuel through the carb than an explosion of gas out the headers type backfire if that makes any sense.
Any thoughts.
Only culprit I have found so far (and this afternoons target) is the fuel selenoid on the carb. It seems to be getting intermittant power when switched instead of constant. But it seems like this would be keep it from starting but it doesnt. It just runs with a heaving nature to it.
But thanks for the premature compliments
slowly makin the bacon ready for URE i hope
Im looking forward to the cold wrenching weather already after a couple days under the hood.
I cant seem to dial in the timing just right. Reinstalled the dizzy one tooth over to get a few more degrees of adj. in the direction needed to find the sweet spot. Got it to fire (btw keep your fingers outta the coil when the key is in the ign) and tweaked enough to run well....untill it warmed up. Now I can retard it enough to run without backfiring but it knocks and adversely I can adjust to where it wont knock but builds pressure and backfires w/ regularity (30 sec intervals) Its more of a pressure blows fuel through the carb than an explosion of gas out the headers type backfire if that makes any sense.
Any thoughts.
Only culprit I have found so far (and this afternoons target) is the fuel selenoid on the carb. It seems to be getting intermittant power when switched instead of constant. But it seems like this would be keep it from starting but it doesnt. It just runs with a heaving nature to it.
But thanks for the premature compliments
slowly makin the bacon ready for URE i hope
jfz80
Cruisin’
- Thread starter
- #88
so this week has been full of your successes and failures.
Ill get it to run seemingly good and something will crap out. (coil first then rotor button)
I was adjusting the timing and the cap cracked and the button dislodged shutting it down immediately.
? once the button on the rotor dislodges is it toast, the retaining groove isnt too messed up and it pressed on snugly, albeit no click/pop. But it got me running again, so I am just curious if I'm good to go there or I should replace it for the inevitable undoing soon to come?
Ill get it to run seemingly good and something will crap out. (coil first then rotor button)
I was adjusting the timing and the cap cracked and the button dislodged shutting it down immediately.
? once the button on the rotor dislodges is it toast, the retaining groove isnt too messed up and it pressed on snugly, albeit no click/pop. But it got me running again, so I am just curious if I'm good to go there or I should replace it for the inevitable undoing soon to come?
Do you have a spare? If not, I may be able to help you out...
jfz80
Cruisin’
- Thread starter
- #91
Yeah a couple old dirty 2F dizzys here but not to worry, Dropped in the THC dizzy I won at STR and wired her up and fired her up last night. Now on to readjust the carb again for the new dizzy. Im pulling vacuum at idle for some reason and the old dizzy advance wasnt picking up on it.
Thanks Marshall!!!
Thanks for the offer....was just by your place this am and almost stopped heading home but ride was getting hotter by the moment and my starter is getting weaker with each turn
Thanks Marshall!!!
Thanks for the offer....was just by your place this am and almost stopped heading home but ride was getting hotter by the moment and my starter is getting weaker with each turn
