Builds 75 Series cab on 80 series chassis with Cummins 6BT (2 Viewers)

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I also placed body over transmission to see if I will be able to use the stock cover. Trans boot looks good. Hoping I can create high/low linkage on the transfer case shifter so I won’t have to cut the cover. Looks like @NLXTACY is getting close with the NV4500/HF2A adapter so it shouldn’t be long now until I can fill the trans with oil and start it. Short throw Hurst shifter should be here this week to test clutch as well.
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Seems like there would be a lot of turbo choices around with the popularity of that engine. Everyone wants the next big thing for their diesel pickup so maybe you can grab up something good for cheap.
 
Seems like there would be a lot of turbo choices around with the popularity of that engine. Everyone wants the next big thing for their diesel pickup so maybe you can grab up something good for cheap.
I have HX35W in the 80. The rusty boat anchor was a H1C. Need to do some research as there are tons of differences in each model.
 
He351cw

Came on early common rails so they’re plentiful and cheap. Pretty easy conversion, run great on a 12v
Conversion would be easy since I don’t have any of the piping yet anyway. :)
 
Lots of eye candy today, at least for me. The short throw shifter arrived so in order to check clearances I mocked up a steering column, dash, and seat. The stick won’t work but Hurst has a full catalog of stick options with different lengths and bends. 1st and 2nd gears puts the ball too close to the wheel. You would bang your hand in turns. The stick in 3rd and 5th gears gets close to the dash but still plenty of room. I am able to shift through all gears with my arm on the armrest which is nice but not keeping the Disco seats in at the moment. I don’t like that they are electric.
1st
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3rd
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5th
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I love how easy the dash is to install. I’ve been mocking it up inside the house and carried the whole thing out to the garage and plopped it in. Stayed put enough to check clearances with no bolts. Dash pad is a bit crooked due to nothing holding it dow.
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Looks like you can bend the shifter down and to the right just a bit, and it'll be golden
 
Looks like you can bend the shifter down and to the right just a bit, and it'll be golden
Yup. I was looking through the Hurst catalog and they don't have a straight stick that is close to the same length and rear bend. The one I have is offset 1.5" so looks like heating it up to bend should work.
 
Just like Johnny @GLTHFJ60 suggested it took all of one minute to heat up the stick and bend it. Shift ball is now three inches to the right. The Land Rover seat with armrest is really making me rethink my manual seat plan. The armrest is perfect height for the shifter but the seat seems a bit big for the cab.
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I also enlarged one of the unwanted mine company holes in the dash and installed an hour meter. The hole to the right will probably be welded shut.
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Hate to say it but I think youd be better off finding a used OEM takeoff and using a china rebuild kit than that whole assy
 
Hate to say it but I think youd be better off finding a used OEM takeoff and using a china rebuild kit than that whole assy
Yeah I thought of that. The few cores I saw for a decent price weren't worth it. They probably needed more than just the simple bearings and seals. Once I added in cost of new shaft, wheel and stuff I just said the hell with it.
 
I really like the HE351CW after installing one on a mildly tuned 2001 Cummins I had. Spooled quick, and kept EGTs manageable. Great bang for the buck IMO.
 
Just stumbled across this build thread. I found that old mine truck in a field in Bonner’s Ferry, Idaho. Glad to see someone is bringing it back to life!
 
I was able to install transfer case yesterday with the Wits’ End adapter. So glad I’m not running the split case in this build.
Looks like the crossmember is within an inch so some sort of adapter will be made. I’m still attempting to keep this build 100% bolt on (except cab to frame). Since the NV4500 mount fits perfectly in the crossmember with no modification I don’t want to hack it up. I have a few ideas for making an adapter so we will see this week if I can make that happen.
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It’s just so damn close. I think a bigger piece of square will do the trick. I don’t want to hack up the crossmember.
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