72 Piggy

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T

Tim Chaney

Joined
Mar 15, 2018
Threads
2
Messages
14
Location
Texas
Howdy, new pig owner here. Since I received the truck a month or so ago I have not been able to get it to start consistantly. From what I was told the 1F engine was rebuilt three years ago and has roughly 18000 miles on it. When I do get it to start and drive around it sputters during acceleration and seems to have no low end power. I noticed the other day fuel leaking from the upper seal on the carburetor, wondering if that could be one of my issues? Today I went to start her up and now wont turn over just makes clicking sounds :\.

What I've replaced:

  • Battery (since it was a few years old)
  • fuel pump + fuel filter
Possible new issues:
Starter
Distributor cap
Carburetor seal leaking fuel

Attached is photo of the carburetor, leaking at the upper seal.

FQt2q65


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Hi Tim,

I'm not the guy to diagnose your carb problem, since I run a Chevy, but several guys on here can help. Sounds like you might be going through all of it. Check all your grounds to make sure you're good there, then check the alt., maybe not charging. If that checks out go to the starter solenoid. Good luck and post up some pictures.
 
scrapdaddy said:
Hi Tim,

I'm not the guy to diagnose your carb problem, since I run a Chevy, but several guys on here can help. Sounds like you might be going through all of it. Check all your grounds to make sure you're good there, then check the alt., maybe not charging. If that checks out go to the starter solenoid. Good luck and post up some pictures.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply scrapdaddy. I did find a bunch of wires and such that were not connected that might have been the cause. I'll dig more into it tomorrow and post some more pictures up of the pig.
 
Check the fuel level in the round window in the front of the carb...it should be at the half-way point while running. Junk in the needle valve would cause over filling of the bowl, flooding the engine and perhaps lead to the leaking around the top plate.
Also, check the 10 or 12 phillips head screws around the carb top plate for snugness.
Also, do the basics. Adjust your valves, and with the valve cover off find TDC compression stroke cylinder 1 and make sure your distributor is inserted correctly. Sounds like it could be a timing issue too.
 
webber makes a great BBQ. if you don't like the smell of lighter fluid burning off the coals, don't run a webber carb on your truck.
 
these things are dead simple.
check for voltage
check oil level
check coolant level
check for spark
check for fuel (new pump and filter; just crank the motor and verify flow...)
adjust valves
set timing
fire off engine.
if it wont go after all of these things, your carb needs rebuilt (or replaced)
oem, City Racer or Trollhole carbs would be bolt-on, set-up and go. the weBBQer carb takes a bit more doing, and will never set-up as well or last as long. fuel level needs to be half-window, and idle mix needs to be 4 turns out to start- set it by leaning it out from there to drop idle. (search "lean drop") set speed to 650 rpm. once dialed in you should be able to back the speed set screw off till the truck is chugging down at 400 rpms. if it won't chug that low, you have an intake leak or lack of idle fuel. setting the idle speed too high at the beginning bypasses the idle circuit and won't let you adjust the mix, so make sure you are conservative with the idle speed screw. timing should be 7* advanced from TDC to start; maybe turning to 10* from there. set valves cold at .008 intake and .014 exhaust. get engine warm and adjust them again to the same specs.
 
Good eveining all,

It was a busy weekend for the Pig and I. After removing all the loose wires I found under the hood thinking something was causing a short, turned out it was the starter. While I was at it I ordered a new dizzy cap, points, rotor and wires. She now starts like a champ on the first try! I also tackeld the rear window and got that working, one thing that is happeing when rolling down the window stops half way and the arms continue going. I was thinking gravity would play its part and the window would ride with the arms all the way down, however looking at the rail the rollers glide on there are two tabs one the left and right. Should there be a wire of some sort that connects the tabs to the arms and assist in pulling it all the way down? My next major tackle will be the e-brake, keep everyone posted and thank you for all the replys and great information thus far.

It's been a great few days here in Texas so I got some photos out in the sun shine :). Interior has new head liner and seats, the dash is all original and I think in pretty good shape. I also ordered me a classic custom plate, I wanted IRNPIG but it was taken and all the varients I tried. I decided to go with LNDPIG :).

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Looks great man! Sounds like the tailgate lift arms aren't connected to the window frame. I'll look for some pictures, but you might try to take some, too. The two rollers go into two small pieces of track that clip onto the window frame. That way the window has to go where the arms go. Take off that rear panel and take a picture.

EDIT...Check out the third picture down in Gary's article. It shows the different pieces involved....Rear window article available from Gary S
 
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scrapdaddy said:
Looks great man! Sounds like the tailgate lift arms aren't connected to the window frame. I'll look for some pictures, but you might try to take some, too. The two rollers go into two small pieces of track that clip onto the window frame. That way the window has to go where the arms go. Take off that rear panel and take a picture.

EDIT...Check out the third picture down in Gary's article. It shows the different pieces involved....Rear window article available from Gary S
Click to expand...

Hi Scrapdaddy,
Sorry for the delay in responding, its been one heck of a few weeks. Here are some pictures of the rear window as requested.

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Hey Tim,

Yeah, you're missing the small " brackets" and clips that hold the arm and rollers to the window Frame. I'll look for pictures... Best picture is in the link I gave you. You'll need two of each.
 
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It also looks like your window is cocked to one side. If I remember right the gears need to be meshed "even" when they come to the end. Shouldn't be more than a couple teeth off, otherwise the glass goes up cocked and it jams in the track. Also missing the rods that open the tailgate, we have some work to do. :)
 
scrapdaddy said:
It also looks like your window is cocked to one side. If I remember right the gears need to be meshed "even" when they come to the end. Shouldn't be more than a couple teeth off, otherwise the glass goes up cocked and it jams in the track. Also missing the rods that open the tailgate, we have some work to do. :)
Click to expand...


Scrapdaddy,

Thanks for the info! Off to find those brackets and other items :). Ebay suprisingly has been a great source for obtaining parts. Lets hope I can find these.
 
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