'72 40 Project...Bluey... until we think of a more original name.

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1MOA said:
I would start on the mechanical. Engine clutch transmission transfer and diffs. Get the bakes sorted out fully. If you are talking axles and a diff decide if you want to get discs up front now so you can plan on a brake master cylinder and work your way out.Get power steering that is the one thing I did that made all the difference, especially if you intend to go wheeling. As far as a diff I don't know who makes an e locker for a non full float axle like you have so you might have to go with a ARB.
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Yea. Fluids and cleaning. Appropriate gaskets. I’ll fully service drums when I change wheels. I am holding off on disc brake conversion. I have some power steering parts.

Unfortunately I do not have infinite resources so I need to do some things later even if it is not 100% linear. Maybe I’ll do the conversion down the road but with a lot of the conversions (maybe not this one) it seems like the neck bone is connected to the toe bone…. “You only need this it’s easy” becomes…. You actually need to do this, find one of these, buy this, grind that…. This thing still needs several lug nuts. lol. I’m going to get it to where I can move it from point A to point B without much drama. I know it will mean duplication of efforts in certain places.

I don’t know what power steering stuff I have yet. There was a complete column. I’ll get pictures tomorrow when I’m home. Working today. There is a pump maybe…. I’m still trying to figure it all out.

PS would be a priority over disc conversion when I get to those. I like my original column though. And wheel. Don’t know if that would need swapped. If it does looks like I may have some parts.

I’m still trying to read and figure the basics out. Didn’t even know what the side plate was on the F. That’s missing a screw. Need a new gasket there I’m sure. Probably will drop pan…. Gasket, I’ll adjust valves too etc…..

Wheels and brakes will provide some value as well as something fun and encouraging. I will clean up valve cover and do some valve recon and gasket replacement.

I do plan on some mild to medium wheeling in the future. Nothing wild. I’ll be taking it easy for a while until everything is sound.

10-4 on the locker….. that’s down the road for sure. Unless I need a rebuild in the immediate future for some reason.

Thanks for the words of wisdom!
 
I also plan on establishing a YouTube channel to document things and for reference. I will either turn comments off and restrict it to comments here to weed out the riffraff or figure out some other way to “invite” forum members to comment. Probably easier to just comment here.
 
If you're going to dive into the valve cover, you might consider a valve adjustment too.
 
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Question 1)

I’m pretty sure I was given a later 40/55 steering Column and a minitruck steering box. I’ll confirm that…. But given that I have those items, who is currently making brackets for the mini truck box and siginaw PS pump? I’ve been up and down the links in the FAQ. Trying to see what is involved in mounting in the F155 and what equipment I need to gather up.

Im familiar with the arguments on the different setups. I’m only gonna be running 33x9.5s.

Question 2)

What’s the negative of converting all the hard fuel lines under the hood to rubber line?

Running something like this to the carb inlet

quadrajetparts.com

1/8-Pipe Thread x 5/16" Barbed Nipple

This fitting makes it easy to hook up a rubber gas line to your carburetor. Barbed side of fitting is made to slip into a 5/16" rubber fuel line. Fits carburetors with 1/8"-pipe inlet thr...
quadrajetparts.com

And a later fuel filter with barbs

cruiserteq.com

Fuel Filter - Fits 9/72'-12/78' FJ40/55

Toyota Land Cruiser Fuel Filters
cruiserteq.com cruiserteq.com

This just seems simple and fast/easy to replace or work on. There is an electric pump in there now so the lines are all hodge podged. I have an OEM mechanical pump coming but am wondering if I should convert the nutted fitting to a barb (sending end) and do the same on the carb. Just run high quality rubber fuel line…

What’s the general consensus?

Thanks!
 
I run an electric diode fuel pump $10 last like 10 years - dirt simple, fast starts - engage the starter when the fuel pump slows/stops clicking. I like the plastic barbed filters - I can see gas flow. The paper element will not flow gas if wet with water - I put on a wet ones out in the sun for a few days to dry - good as new. I use yellow bottle fuel dryer in the fall, winter, and spring. I have a gascolator too.
 
I tried rubber fuel lines in the past, they degraded relatively quickly. I run metal lines like the stk metal lines were run, from the tank to the fuel pump along with the return lines with short rubber sections to connect them . I always run a metal line between the fuel pump and carb at a minimum. The fuel in the line is under pressure. Intially running metal lines can be difficult to install, but i think over time the metal lines will be cheaper and easier to deal with. I do have a quality tubing bender.
 
Nice find! My 72 sat for 12 years under a pine tree... I disconnected the battery pulled all the fuses and took a round file and just cleaned up the fuse holders and all my lights work all of them work inside outside... clean your grounds works every time!
 
Is there a trick to pulling the dizzy to pop it back in easy with no drama. I’m going to remove some things and do some work in a few days. One of the things I’m replacing is the push rod cover gasket. Do I need to put the dizzy in a specific orientation?
 
1974 FJ40
I'm new to this forum. I would like to replace my mechanical fuel pump with an electrical one. I think is an easy job but I have a couple of questions. 1 - Do I need a pressure regulator? 2 - Any recommended brands/model number?
 
A block off plate for the engine when you remove the mechanical fuel pump - reduces drag on the engine. I run the diode electric fuel pumps for carbs. They are like $10 on ebay or amoron. They look like this in my fuel transfer pump. Fused, switch, filtered, 12' power cord that can plug into the cig lighter or clamp to the battery, 5' draft 20' delivery (can be reversed for fuel harvesting - will transfer diesel too. Cost like $50 several years ago to build the system. I'm old and holding up 5 gallon fuel cans is getting to hard.

PICT0075.webp
 
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Explorer4Hire said:
Is there a trick to pulling the dizzy to pop it back in easy with no drama. I’m going to remove some things and do some work in a few days. One of the things I’m replacing is the push rod cover gasket. Do I need to put the dizzy in a specific orientation?
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I like to put the engine at #1 TDC before I take the dizzy out so that I know where the rotor should be pointing for reinstall. One thing I've found is that the oil pump drive that sits at the bottom of the hole can "drift" a little once you take the dizzy out (i.e. it turns to the left or right) so before reinstalling the dizzy you may need to reposition it with a long flat-blade screwdriver.

The rotor should be pointing roughly at cylinder number 4 (on engine block) with engine at #1 TDC. Assuming no one's messed with it too much, the rotor will then be positioned under the #1 spark plug wire on the distributor cap. The most important thing is to ensure that the dizzy is *fully* seated and that the tang on the end of the dizzy shaft is fully engaged with the oil pump drive, otherwise the engine won't make oil pressure and we all know what happens after that.
 
diesellibrarian said:
I like to put the engine at #1 TDC before I take the dizzy out so that I know where the rotor should be pointing for reinstall. One thing I've found is that the oil pump drive that sits at the bottom of the hole can "drift" a little once you take the dizzy out (i.e. it turns to the left or right) so before reinstalling the dizzy you may need to reposition it with a long flat-blade screwdriver.

The rotor should be pointing roughly at cylinder number 4 (on engine block) with engine at #1 TDC. Assuming no one's messed with it too much, the rotor will then be positioned under the #1 spark plug wire on the distributor cap. The most important thing is to ensure that the dizzy is *fully* seated and that the tang on the end of the dizzy shaft is fully engaged with the oil pump drive, otherwise the engine won't make oil pressure and we all know what happens after that.
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Outstanding... Thank you! Lots of parts coming in and I am hoping to get a lot done in a week of two....
 
Did some poking around today as I had the morning off. Chased the wiring diagram, oil pressure works! Got the needle to budge by placing it on the temp sender. It won’t reach farther yet. Likewise the temp sender wire is too short to reach it, but they are located. I jumped the temp sender and it works too! Score.

Once I have a few days off I’ll center it in the garage and really go to work. I’m still in recon mode. Buried in parts!

I still need some hardware and some horns. Any good aftermarket’s or swaps that are easy to get?

I also need a horn spring and the horn pad button. I might order a repro from city racers but I need that spring plate thing.

Other than that and some miscellaneous bolts I’m about ready to rock!
 
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