71FJ40 Chevota

[dohcdelsol93]

If you want a stock short throw (low profile) pressure plate and clutch get one from a 1968 checker marathon

I had no luck finding one from Chevy trucks that were low profile short throw.

I ran that set up for years with stock 67 Master and slave.

Cheap clutch kit I could source locally.

 

[71FJnick]

Thanks Kev, I've been bouncing around as I have time and money.

good point dohcdelsol93 on the checker clutch.
I've been thinking about the Downey pressure plate or AA kit, but I'll check out the checker one too.
The clutch sorta took a back burner while I'm working on electrical.

 

[71FJnick]

So I've really grown to love my 40. It's a total basket case and will end up costing waaaay to much to money and time, but totally worth it.... Right? I guess that's what cars do to guys like us. The folks from MUD have been super helpful and I'm looking forward to more advice and ideas.
I think I've made some decisions on what this 40 will and will not be, and what I want to do with it when I'm done. I plan to drive it, on and off road, build it, improve it and have fun. It's not a stock 40 and never will be, if I have a chance to use factory Toyota components and it's financially and functionally reasonable, I will, but if not, my intent is to use robust aftermarket or available components to make the truck reliable and tough.
This won't be a show queen, or rock crawler, or expedition rig. Just a cool 40 that can go anywhere or do anything, at least anywhere I want to go or do.

What I've learned so far about the truck:
Title says 71 FJ40
It must be an early one or had a frame swap because the frame ID is 477**

350 conversion, looks like AA adapters
SM420 trans
Stock transfer case (assume)
Stock axles (assume)
SOA with shackle reversal
Stock springs I assume due to the 94" wheelbase
39x15 tires - ugh my least favorite part of the truck - those life rafts have to go!
Painless wiring harness, installed but not the greatest job
Auto meter gauges
Siginaw power steering 3:1 ratio
GM tilt column
No heater
No wipers
Clutch doesn't fully disengage
Body is ok, but needs lots of help

Current topics:
Cleaning up the painless harness install, adding good grounds, waterproof connections, and securing the wiring bundles

 

[71FJnick]

Did some wiring on the front end today.
Pass side turn signal is done
Cleaned the ground, used some dielectric grease under the ring connector then covered with liquid electrical tape after it was secured.

 

[71FJnick]

Then to make a semi permanent waterproof connection to the lamp, I I used crimp on bullet connectors with the heat shrink from a marine supply store.
Once crimped and heat shrunk, I put a little dielectric grease on the bullet, pushed in the connection, then used a small piece of heat shrink over the joint.
If I ever need to unplug the connector, I figure I can cut the heat shrink with a razor blade then unplug. Until then, I think it's a pretty solid connection... I guess time will tell

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

because of where it's at, I doubt you'll ever have trouble, but, in a wet location, water will weep into the connector where the wires enter the connector. You can abate it by putting silicone on the plastic before you shrink it - or use the frustrating-to-properly-crimp, yet quite good, delphi connectors

 

[pbgbottle]

it works with the Chevy bellhousing ,i am using it with my sm465 and stock Toyota hydraulics

There's a low-profile pressure plate/clutch combination. It's actually the pressure plate and clutch that the AA setup uses. Again, I'm not sure if it will be compatible with a stock Chevy bellhousing (as opposed to a conversion bellhousing) but it's definitely worth a shot. A low-pro pressure plate should reduce the amount of throw required and might allow you to use the stock Toyota hydraulics.

 

[terrx]

I noticed that the drag link angle is pretty steep and it has a straight pitman arm. If you have any trouble with bump steer changing to a drop pitman arm will help. Keep up the good work.

 

[71FJnick]

Thanks for the tip on the pitman arm. I've been thinking about the 4x4 labs hysteer arms, but still researching.

 

[bikersmurf]

Congrats, welcome to the sickness. I wish you all the best with you build.

If it's working, great, but don't make the mistake many make; having the clutch never fully engage (clutch disc always slipping, heating up, then burning out), or clutch never fully disengaging (you dragging/grinding through the gears because you never fully remove the pressure from the disc). Lots of Chevota owners try using stock Chevy clutches that take more travel to disengage than your Toyota hydraulics has, then they have the problems I mentioned, but since their rig is still somewhat drivable, they unknowingly claim they have no problem. Downey and AA don't make special Chevota clutches because they are in the make-pretend business, they machine special Chevy pressure plates to require less travel for full disengagement (using stock Toyota hydraulics) to actually solve a problem..

I did my V8 conversion back in 1996, using a "standard 11" low diaghaphram type Chevy clutch" per the instructions that came with my conversion bel housing and mounts. I took those instructions and a stock 2F pressure plate to an old school parts guy, and he matched me up with a low diaphram, LUK, 11" clutch I was told it was used in 70s vans with a six cylinder. 18 years later, it's still going strong. I've got the correct amount of free play before the throw out bearing touches the clutch fingers, and the clutch is disengaged by the time it's about 1/2 way down. It never drags or grinds, it works perfectly. I'm using a 74 clutch master, a 74 clutch slave, and braided SS clutch line. But heck, what do I know, I'm just a guy who followed the instructions, and "unknowingly claim they have no problem"... Hey Jim can I count on your expert testimony if I take legal action against the company that sold me the kit... Oh wait, they went out of Buisness... Hey, wasn't it your company. Thanks again, for telling me I'm an Idiot for following YOUR instructions and making it work for 18+ years with a 300hp 350 Chevy.

I'd respectfully have to disagree with your opinion, and welcome you coming by to inspect it and show me how/why it doesn't work. Or the next time I drive it down your way again, I'll let you inspect it there.

 

[71FJnick]

Been working fuel system and carb issues lately while I save some cash (and stamina) for a clutch job.
The truck came with an 18 gal, JAZ fuel cell sitting in the bed on 2x4s. It has a 2" sump in the bottom so I built a bracket and bolted it to the bed.
Eventually, I'll find a Confer (or similar) aux tank to hang out back between the frame rails, but for now, the free fuel cell will keep me going.

Here's a trick a friend showed me in lieu of a flaring tool with aluminum fuel line:
Use a 4mm 1/4" drive socket and hammer it into the end of the tube with the tube nut installed. Flares out nicely and doesn't leak. Here's a flared version next to the "redneck" flare.

 

[71FJnick]

The fuel pump was running 9-12psi so I added a QFT-30-899 pressure regulator. This one has an idle jet designed to smooth out pressure from a mechanical fuel pump at idle. It came with a 76 jet in it which was too big (fuel pressure was 3-4psi), I changed it over to a 40 jet and now sit between 5.5-6.5psi at idle and max out at 6.5psi at 3000rpm. I had a nasty bog off idle, even after checking vacuum (22Hg at idle) and adjusting timing to 10 degrees initial (upped from 8 to help off idle performance).
I ended up changing the accelerator pump nozzle from 28 to 35, that helped a lot. I've got some different pump cams for the accelerator pump to farther tune off idle.
Fuel line is 3/8" supply and return. I plumbed the regulator after the carb fill lines to *hopefully* reduce vapor lock on hot summer days.

 

[71FJnick]

Now I'm ready to tackle the clutch. Looking at the transfer case mount (it's an Advanced Adapter) the bolts drop in from the top and are sandwiched between the mount and the body. Meaning I have to either remove the body to change the clutch? OR bore a hole in from the inside of the truck to access the bolts. I'm thinking I'll drill a 1.25" hole with a hole saw from inside, then, after I remove the trans/transfer case, I'll put a tube in there and weld it to the body. Then I'll have an access hole so I can pull the transmission and transfer case in the future without removing any body mounts... Unless I'm missing something :/ Anyway, more slow progress.

 

[71FJnick]

Bored the 1.5" dia holes from the body to get access to the bolts used on the AA propeller style transfer case mount, got the bolts out, now onto the starter, driveshaft and linkages.

 

[71FJnick]

Transmission is out and now the diagnostics of the problems.
The clutch disk was installed backwards causing the springs to grind on the flywheel bolts, so that's what the metal grinding sound was!

Need to do some more searching to make sure I get all the right parts.
I suspect that this isn't the low profile pressure plate either that's designed for Toyota hydraulics

 

[777Gage]

If I missed something in your post, please forgive me......

I have the same AA transfer case adapter and on mine the bolts slide in from the bottom (ground up) and the nuts go on the top. (closest to the under body) I can easily access them from the space between the body and frame. I just did a full clutch, AA swap out of a PO mess.

Take a side profile pic of the pressure plate and then it will be easy to tell if yours is low profile. I got my new set-up from Downey (here on the board).

 

[71FJnick]

Yea, I'm cleaning up a PO mess as well.
When I reinstall, I'll put the nuts on top and bolt from the bottom.
I'll take a pic of the pressure plate, I'm thinking I'll buy a whole setup from AA or Downey with TOB, clutch arm flywheel and clutch.
I'm torn between saving some cash by trying to use the stamped release arm, and the old flywheel (no grooves) or having to pull the trans again if reusing stuff doesn't work

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

Do you have all the parts for your front end? I'm getting pretty close to scrapping a 70 front end because no one wants it.

 

[71FJnick]

I think so, the front axle is complete.
I still need a front driveshaft, but other than that it's all future mods to go to disk brakes and large pattern knuckles.
Thanks though

 

[Flipper1938]

If you want a stock short throw (low profile) pressure plate and clutch get one from a 1968 checker marathon

I had no luck finding one from Chevy trucks that were low profile short throw.

I ran that set up for years with stock 67 Master and slave.

Cheap clutch kit I could source locally.

Which Checker engine combo has the correct clutch?