Great job sir.
Need to stop by and see the progress on the Cruiser.
Need to stop by and see the progress on the Cruiser.
62 big brake build upgrade thread
- Thread starter cliffrdavis
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
OK finishing this thread.
When installing studs into the hub I would suggest using nuts other than the locking nuts that came with FROR kit. For some reason when I used them it stripped threads. Used standard nuts and worked fine.
Make sure to install the longer end into the hub. Place two nuts on stud and tighten to each other. Then tighten them down to the hub.
When installing studs into the hub I would suggest using nuts other than the locking nuts that came with FROR kit. For some reason when I used them it stripped threads. Used standard nuts and worked fine.
Make sure to install the longer end into the hub. Place two nuts on stud and tighten to each other. Then tighten them down to the hub.
- Thread starter
- #23
Install the locking hub gasket over the studs. Apply more grease on axle splines and install the locking hub casing +/- install/line up pin tabs from casing to the hub. Install cone washers then split washers and nuts. 22ftlbs of torque.
Use a M8 bolt and screw it into the end of the axle birf. This will allow you to pull axle out to see the notch and install the last snapring.
Highly recommend duckbill pliers to reinstall the snapring. I used these.
I tried with standard snapring pliers but couldn’t get it to work. Above made it super easy.
Now remove bolt in the end of axle and install locking hub cap in the “FREE” position. Line up bolts. Make sure the hub will lock and unlock - if not, rotate clockwise to next bolt pattern. Install bolts. 8-12ftlbs torque.
Reinstall wheel and you are done.
Brake upgrade can be done in a few hours assuming you have a tool or help to bleed the brakes.
Use a M8 bolt and screw it into the end of the axle birf. This will allow you to pull axle out to see the notch and install the last snapring.
Highly recommend duckbill pliers to reinstall the snapring. I used these.
I tried with standard snapring pliers but couldn’t get it to work. Above made it super easy.
Now remove bolt in the end of axle and install locking hub cap in the “FREE” position. Line up bolts. Make sure the hub will lock and unlock - if not, rotate clockwise to next bolt pattern. Install bolts. 8-12ftlbs torque.
Reinstall wheel and you are done.
Brake upgrade can be done in a few hours assuming you have a tool or help to bleed the brakes.
How is the rotor centered to the wheel hub? Visually It seems a bit too loose to be hub centric, and the bolt holes seem too big to be lug centric. Can you wiggle it around without the wheel on?
This is making me want to look into alternative options for big brakes.
This is making me want to look into alternative options for big brakes.
- Thread starter
- #25
The rotors fit well. I just didn’t have them pushed all the way in on that photo. I installed brake pads later on that side so there was a lot of play on the rotor on the studs.
I spent a lot of time of searching on how to cut tabs off the knuckles and looking for pictures of the installation of the caliper support bracket as it is thicker on one side than the other. If installed wrong the caliper would have been offset compared to the rotor. The caliper bracket could be thicker with a backing nut - but apparently has been used for many years by MUD users without an issue.
I had some customer service issues with FROR that I don’t list here and had to spend another $250 to get correct parts that were supposed to be included. Again, I would go with just FROR bracket and source the rest with links I provided or use @cruisermatt.
MUD has saved me hundreds of hours on other installs so hoping this will do the same for others wanting to do this upgrade.
I spent a lot of time of searching on how to cut tabs off the knuckles and looking for pictures of the installation of the caliper support bracket as it is thicker on one side than the other. If installed wrong the caliper would have been offset compared to the rotor. The caliper bracket could be thicker with a backing nut - but apparently has been used for many years by MUD users without an issue.
I had some customer service issues with FROR that I don’t list here and had to spend another $250 to get correct parts that were supposed to be included. Again, I would go with just FROR bracket and source the rest with links I provided or use @cruisermatt.
MUD has saved me hundreds of hours on other installs so hoping this will do the same for others wanting to do this upgrade.
now that you’re done please make sure to tell us you’re driving opinion of them too! do you notice a big difference or is it just sort of better?
@cliffrdavis, were you able to use the hub dust seals with the new hubs?
You can, I flipped mine and trimmed the flange to fit
Nice! Thank you!
There's no need to flip the hub dust seal and trim the flange. Mount in the normal manner, it will be fine. I've been running the Tundra brake mod since ca. 2018 and have done one knuckle rebuild, both times the hub dust seal has been installed in the stock orientation without any issue.
I don’t remember why I flipped it, but I assume it interfered otherwise I would have left it intact. YMMV, fit it up and check
You must’ve got the 2017+ 4Runner kit (what I have as well). With the additional bracket spacer it pushes the seal out too far and interferes with the hub. I cut the flange off the old seal and flipped it around for a mockup/ test fit and it clears the hub.
The seal really shouldn’t be oriented this way. But for a dust seal it’s better than nothing.
Yup same kit, makes sense now!