62 big brake build upgrade thread

[cliffrdavis]

Recently completed Front Range Off-road (FROR) big brake upgrade (early 2000 Tundra). Parts came with no instructions and there are a few threads on here about the basics of the upgrade. Figured I would post more detailed instructions and tips I found on MUD. This was part of complete OME suspension, tie rod replacement, knuckle rebuild, rear brake overhaul and underside paint/cleaning. Several pics have my 13 yo son or father as this is my way to get them working together!

Please note - this will increase width of axles by 1 5/8” per side. Also requires 16” wheels to clear the caliper. So changing to 16-17” wheels all around requires some thought due to backspacing issues. There is another big brake kit for 2017 and up 4Runner brake kit which would require 17” wheels.



So first step is that you can build this kit on your own - but several vendors have them as a complete kit and minimal savings if you buy outside of a single vendor. Although the FROR kit was complete they have been unresponsive to my calls, emails or messages - so take that for what it is. @cruisermatt has helped me and also makes the kit so I give him props.

The basics are the kit requires IFS hubs to allow for larger rotors and calipers. Also need to convert hard brake lines to flex as the calipers are in a different location. To mount the new Calipers a mounting plate is added on the spindle as detailed below. This requires grinding of the old mounting ears off the knuckle. Hopefully it will let me post pics and everything I did.

 

[cliffrdavis]

After knuckles cleaned and painted. Used two open end wrenches to remove axle oil seal (recommend leaving upper and lower races in to protect parts).

Then used brass punch inside a long ratchet to knock out the races.

 

[cliffrdavis]

Replaced with new oil seal - I used a 1x 2” board to prevent damage of the seal.

Same with the upper and lower knuckle races. Place the races in the freezer to shrink as much as possible before hammering in.

 

[cliffrdavis]

Use a little grease on the axle ends. Slide on felt, rubber and metal split ring on the axle in that order.

Slide knuckle over axle end with new trunnion bearings in place. Replaced spacers to the top and bottom of knuckle under bearing caps - lots of instructions on MUD and FSM about this. Tighten bearing caps to torque recs (43-54 ft-lbs). Test the force to move steering arm per FSM (6.6-12l bs).

AFTER the knuckle/trunnion bearing preload is correct - install the rear knuckle half moon dust cover over the felt/rubber/split ring. These are tricky to line up as the rubber and split ring seals sit inside the bolts pattern. I used brass punches to line up holes and then install the bolts. I couldn’t find a torque spec on these so I tightened to 10 ft-lbs. Any more and I assume it deform the seal and felt.

 

[cliffrdavis]

Wipe birf and place a lot moly grease in joint. Gently slide in with flat sides at top and bottom. If birf won’t completely slide in - turn the front driveshaft a little. Fill knuckle with moly grease.

Notice old mounting ears on knuckle have been ground off.

Used brass punch to line up holes for spindle and caliper mounting bracket.

No instructions but this is what I did based on reviewing pics of other installations.

Order of install: knuckle, paper gasket, spindle, paper gasket, mounting bracket. Mounting bracket holes will only line up for the brake caliper in rear so it will not interfere with the tie rod/steering components.

 

[cliffrdavis]

Insert new longer provided spindle bolts with loctite and tighten to torque recs (38 ft-lbs). Note keeping brass punch in to keep holes lined up until you have a couple bolts installed. I noticed same issue as previously posted about lock washer failure with the FROR kit while installing. I had some extras available but wished they were all higher grade steel.

 

[cliffrdavis]

Now preparing the new hubs!

They will need new lugs - should come with the kit. I had mine pressed in by machine shop. I wish I had them press the bearing races in as well. See below.

The inner and outer races need to be pressed in to the hub and should come with the kit. Apply some grease to the hub to help them slide in. Consider putting races in the freezer first to shrink them a little. I recommend doing the outer race first. I used a brass punch in a clockwise fashion until they were completely seated. This takes some time.

Make sure you grease the hub now, pack AND place the inner bearing BEFORE placing the outer oil seal in place. The bearing won’t fit through the outer seal. I made the mistake of placing seal before outer bearing and had to remove the oil seal immediately after placing it. This ruined the oil seal. Luckily, I had an extra seal on hand. I used wood 2 x 4” and mallet to tap in outer hub seal - it gets damaged easily.

 

[cliffrdavis]

Place the new hub on the spindle - add the outer bearing, thrust washer and adjusting nut.

Front Hub Bearing Adjustment

1. Initial Torque (Adjusting Nut): Tighten the inner adjusting nut to 43-50 ft-lbs (59-68 Nm) while rotating the hub to seat the bearings.
2. Back Off: Back the adjusting nut off completely (about 1 full turn). I did step #1, #2 again given new bearings and hub.
3. Final Adjustment (Adjusting Nut): Re-tighten the inner nut to a light setting, typically 4-6 ft-lbs (5-8 Nm), or simply seat it snug and back it off just enough to allow the locking washer to align.
4. Securing Nut (Jam Nut): Install the lock washer and outer jam nut. Torque the jam nut to 100-140 ft-lbs (135-190 Nm).
5. Final Check: Ensure the hub rotates freely without axial play

 

[cliffrdavis]

Install the new rotor (much larger than stock) and install brake caliper. The calipers aren’t labeled L or R. In fact, one caliper had both R&L stamped on it. The correct orientation is for the bleeder port on the caliper to be at the TOP of the caliper for air expulsion - so that’s the best way to tell R from L.

No instructions on torque recs from
FROR so I put on anti-corrosion on the caliper bolts and tightened to ~55 ft lbs. There is not a lot of thread on the mounting bracket so I was worried about going too tight and stripping the threads. A few on MUD have welded an extra nut on this spot so the caliper mounting bolt has extra bite. FROR kit uses Allen head bolts for the caliper mounting which luckily I had - it’s a large Allen wrench and didn’t know the size. No labels or sizes given with kit.

Pics from driver side. Different view.

 

[cliffrdavis]

Attach brake line - this kit came with SS 20” flex lines. They are really long but the end fittings are correct. 16” would have been plenty. Attach the axle side first as it doesn’t have a rotating coupler. Then attach the caliper side.

Install steering TRE on steering arm - tighten castle nut to torque spec (67 ft lbs). Add cotter pin.

I still need to install the brake pads and bleed the calipers.

As part of this upgrade I followed @60Works example and installed the Advics master cylinder upgrade from his post (Advics p/n BMT-090). I haven’t figured out MC cap fitting yet as mine was different size than Advics and I can’t use the sensor. Will jump on that issue soon. I was told the booster on FJ62 was very good so I left it alone (fj60 uses different one). Sorry don’t have install pics.

@60Works post about brake upgrade is here:

Thread 'Brake Upgrade - The Tundra Mod'
Brake Upgrade - The Tundra Mod - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/brake-upgrade-the-tundra-mod.1112995/

 

[cliffrdavis]

Lastly, pat your 13 yo son on the back for learning this. Next - on to the locking hubs!

Please note I had to look up many of these instructions piecemeal from other posts so I cannot guarantee they are correct! I used FSM where possible but with new bolts and brackets it’s tough to say if the torque specs are the same!

If someone notes a correction I will edit above posts.

 

[Spook50]

Great work on the upgrade and the write-up. It's on my list for once I get my 62 into my shop and begin getting it road worthy again.

 

[Roonie]

what product did you use to paint the frame with? Looks clean.

 

[cliffrdavis]

what product did you use to paint the frame with? Looks clean.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086966JJF?tag=ihco-20

Amazon - rustoleum rust reform and seal. Black rubberized.

It looks good from far! Used brush for this product on the frame and spray for the hard to reach places. POR 15 looked better on my prior projects but the rustoleum is more forgiving. It’s flat black and thick material so it covers well. I read about it on MUD so decided to give it a try.

 

[Godwin]

No instructions on torque recs from FROR so I put on anti-corrosion on the caliper bolts and tightened to ~55 ft lbs. There is not a lot of thread on the mounting bracket so I was worried about going too tight and stripping the threads. A few on MUD have welded an extra nut on this spot so the caliper mounting bolt has extra bite. FROR kit uses Allen head bolts for the caliper mounting which luckily I had - it’s a large Allen wrench and didn’t know the size. No labels or sizes given with kit.

I'm one that had nuts welded to the FROR brackets to provide more thread engagement because the front caliper bolts take about 90 ft-lbs of torque. This is one area where I don't trust non-OEM parts and I used OEM caliper bolts for mounting.

 

[klip]

Nice write up and nice brakes! They look great. I wonder why the gasket between the bracket and the spindle?

 

[cliffrdavis]

Nice write up and nice brakes! They look great. I wonder why the gasket between the bracket and the spindle?

It may not be necessary - no instructions so I just installed one there. I just figured it would better keep water from entering and grease from leaking out.

I need to complete the thread with the locking hubs install. The studs FROR provided for the job to locking hub mount weren’t symmetrical and I didn’t notice until I hade installed the locking hub. PIA and now have to remove and reinstall several studs as some protrude out 5 mm more than others. Again, some simple instructions would have been helpful - which is why I made the thread to help the next guy that does this upgrade!

 

[klip]

Oh man, the threads were longer on one end of the stud. Did it come with arp studs? I thought that’s what they advertised. Well at least you caught it. FROR customer service is absolutely terrible! Which is too bad because they make really cool stuff. Thank you for the write up, it’ll really help me out. I also bought the FROR kit and will be installing it soon.

 

[Lead Head]

Definitely not overly impressed with that kit, especially with no instructions. I wonder if there's any way to make a later backing plate fit?

 

[cliffrdavis]

I plan to post the stud and free/locking hub install with some tips. I did have some issues with the studs/locking nuts provided in the FROR kit. In addition, it turns out FROR sent me the wrong calipers. When I installed the brake pads, I noted they didn’t match up with the rotors. I went to Napa and got a 2004 tundra caliper (they had them in stock) which fit perfectly and was different than the calipers FROR provided. The casting number on the calipers FROR provided do not match anything I can find on the Internet, but I assume they are 2017 4runner and above. Worst part - FROR not returning my calls or emails and I had to purchase new 2004 Tundra Calipers at around ~$300.

My recommendation - go with a local cruiser shop that will help you put together a kit or follow @60Works part recs. From what I understand the hubs and caliper mounting plate is really what is FROR does well - the rest are better handled by Cruiser shop or using own local parts store and some research. @cruisermatt has his own kit using just the FROR hub/plates.

Regardless, brakes came out great and got new OEM studs for the locking hubs without an issue. I’ll finish post next week when I have time to post my pics.