- Joined
- Jul 22, 2012
- Threads
- 630
- Messages
- 17,204
- Location
- Winter Park, Florida
- Website
- www.cruisermatts.com
How much of the truck's mileage is in 4wd?
60 Series Flatbed/Ute/Tray back etc...
- Thread starter BlueCruiser84
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #143
No idea. The way that birfield looks makes you wonder, though. I've only put maybe 10 miles on it with the hubs locked. But I've only put 500 miles on the vehicle.
- Thread starter
- #144
Thanks! The chop isn't for everyone, but it's fun to play with.
Birf damage was also caused by the extremely loose, if not completely failed, wheel bearings. When the wheel bearings get bad enough, they allow the outer edge of the hub to tilt up towards the hood. When this gets bad enough, since the birfield stub shaft is connected to the outside of the hub, the birfield shaft will rub on the upper portion of the inside of the spindle. Check the upper half of the inside of the spindle and you'll see wear there too, where there should not be.
Absolutely loving the truck! Fine work!
- Thread starter
- #146
Ahh. That makes sense. I didn't think about that. I think the spindles on both sides have been replaced because they look great. Let me see if I can post a picture of the passenger side carnage from my phone.
- Thread starter
- #147
- Thread starter
- #148
Looks like the bearings were so loose the hub got into the spindle bolts and dust seal
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2012
- Threads
- 630
- Messages
- 17,204
- Location
- Winter Park, Florida
- Website
- www.cruisermatts.com
That is REALLY un-good
- Thread starter
- #150
Yea no kidding. The spindle looks fine, though. You'd think if the bearings were that bed it would have eaten up the spindle. And you'd think if the spindle was replaced they would have used new bolts.... I'm not sure what went on.
To get the bolts out I had to clean them up with a grinder and hammer on an impact socket.
To get the bolts out I had to clean them up with a grinder and hammer on an impact socket.
- Thread starter
- #152
The mini shafts would work, but I'm just going to run it. It was working fine before I tore it down. Thanks for the offer though!
On a separate note do you want to sign up for wheeling 4 hope?
On a separate note do you want to sign up for wheeling 4 hope?
I put the whole fuel vapor separator in a bed mounted tool box on my fj55- you're going to need some sort of separator canister or you will risk getting raw fuel up to your charcoal canister...truck looks good!
Unfortunately I have some harness work to do due to a shorted solenoid during fall crawl so I can't commit.
I just checked and they only have 9 registrations left!! Good for them, it's a great cause....
- Thread starter
- #155
Is this for normal driving conditions? or mainly off-camber or roll over situations when fuel is somewhere other than the bottom of the tank? I'm mostly wondering how concerned I should be about this.
Yeah, I think there is a waiting list now. If you need some help spinning wrenches i'm always game.
it is for day to day expansion and contraction of the fuel, based upon temperature changes. the fuel evaporates readily, and it's vapors are trapped, compressed and condensed inside the vapor separator. the re-condensed fuel returns to the tank, and the gaseous odors that don't condense are routed thru the charcoal canister. you should do something about this before alot of driving...the vapor can needs to be above the level of the fuel, so just higher than the tank will work. Inside of a tool box, or maybe tucked between the headache rack and the rear firewall might work without being conspicuous.
- Thread starter
- #157
Ah. Ok. I need to build a headache rack so maybe once that is in I can stick the vapor separator on the back. It's not going anywhere for a while so I've got time to figure it out. Thanks for the tip.
happy to help
Cool..Thx!. Same here.
- Thread starter
- #160
Got the rear axle pulled and the spring packs pulled apart.
Next step is removing leaves so the rear suspension will actually compress when going over bumps. These are the CS004 rear Dakar springs with 8 leaves - 6 arched leaves and 2 overloads. I'm definitely pulling the 3rd leaf from the top. Does anyone know if I could, or should, pull any of the other leaves? One of the overloads? or I've heard people suggest the 3rd one up from the bottom? I'm typically driving around unloaded and the bed is small enough that I'm probably not going to be hauling exceptionally heavy loads. I'd like for it to ride "nicely" but I don't want to damage a spring.
Here is the pack partially apart:
And what is currently not in the pack - two overloads and the 3rd leaf from the top.
Next step is removing leaves so the rear suspension will actually compress when going over bumps. These are the CS004 rear Dakar springs with 8 leaves - 6 arched leaves and 2 overloads. I'm definitely pulling the 3rd leaf from the top. Does anyone know if I could, or should, pull any of the other leaves? One of the overloads? or I've heard people suggest the 3rd one up from the bottom? I'm typically driving around unloaded and the bed is small enough that I'm probably not going to be hauling exceptionally heavy loads. I'd like for it to ride "nicely" but I don't want to damage a spring.
Here is the pack partially apart:
And what is currently not in the pack - two overloads and the 3rd leaf from the top.