40 series general tech and classifieds

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Ntsaint, here is my carb.



image-1460508905.webp





image-718120347.webp

image-1460508905.webp


image-718120347.webp
 
Thanks!

Two questions: do you have a shot of the front side, where the fuel lines hook up? Want to compare that to what I have.

Also, see below pic...does the line I've circled run to your distributor?

Thanks again.

image-1460508905.webp
 
Nolen,

Part of the existing cage was used to build that one in Srobs rig. The front part is the old cage. The rear is the only thing he changed.
 
Can somebody tell me what part of brake system the brake fluid reservoir that is empty goes to? That thing has emptied on me twice since I had it.

It's the one in center of pic or the aft one.

Why does this thing have so many reservoirs?

image-3768024663.webp

image-3768024663.webp
 
MEMCruiser said:
Yes. That line runs to distributor.

Next pics are running from carb back to fuel pump.

Thanks for all the pics. Think I'm all hooked up.

I have a slightly diff carb than you, my fuel line inputs are different.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
 
Your rear wheel cyl's are leaking I'd bet. Can you say $100 bill? Not too hard. Just did mine. Try the guys at Cruiser Corps or Cool Cruisers for parts.
 
Your rear wheel cyl's are leaking I'd bet. Can you say $100 bill? Not too hard. Just did mine. Try the guys at Cruiser Corps or Cool Cruisers for parts.

right on...
 
Sorry, $135. I looked at the parts on Cruiser Corps
 
Your rear wheel cyl's are leaking I'd bet. Can you say $100 bill? Not too hard. Just did mine. Try the guys at Cruiser Corps or Cool Cruisers for parts.

Had kids press pedal while I crawled underneath after I filled up empty reservoir. I could not see any leaks. I did hear some noises coming from both rear wheels. Seemed a little loud for regular break movement.

Got a link to the part you think I need?
 
Or... For about $200 we can fix you up with the stuff to convert to rear disc brakes ;)
Nice thing about discs is that everything is visible. Why replace when you can upgrade for a little mo' money?! :cool:
 
MEMCruiser said:
Ok. How do I go about doing this? Is there any chance of getting it done before the crawl? Oh yeah I leave on trip for a week on monday, so times a wastin.

This is next on my list. If you decide to do it, post it up!

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
 
Ok so another bump in the road to starting the engine: no igniter or resistor to be found anywhere in my stack-o-stuff.

A little research tells me oem stuff here is rare and expensive. Anybody got any experience with the Pertronix stuff?

Sent from my iPad using IH8MUD
 
Mike for what it's worth the rear passenger side wheel cylinder was replaced and the whole system bleed and replaced with fresh fluid a month before you bought it. (professionally) If the problem is RP then you may can get a warranty on part. Dig through that receipt pile and if you can't find it I can get print out from shop that did it.

I'm wondering if flushing the system actually opened up a previous leak. The problem with 30 year old trucks is that if you wash them, replace a part on an inline system (like brakes) other stuff tends to happen as as a result........I always try to look at the glass as half full. $120 and you will know alot more about how rear brakes work. (probably not comforting right now.)
 
Back
Top Bottom