It's has little to much chrome. But nice none the less.
40 series general tech and classifieds
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- #383
I was talking to Nolan last night about my harsh ride and had a few questions for you fellas.
I have new shackles, bushings and am going to remove my springs and take the two lowest (smallest) leafs out of the packs and then put them back on with the new shackles and bushings.
since I will have them out im going to take the packs apart and clean them, sand and inspect for structural rust. I know not to paint them (individually) but should I put some sort of grease or rubber bn them to help reduce vibration and metal on metal?
once put back together I will just rattle can them black and re install.
Thanks for any advice or ideas.
I have new shackles, bushings and am going to remove my springs and take the two lowest (smallest) leafs out of the packs and then put them back on with the new shackles and bushings.
since I will have them out im going to take the packs apart and clean them, sand and inspect for structural rust. I know not to paint them (individually) but should I put some sort of grease or rubber bn them to help reduce vibration and metal on metal?
once put back together I will just rattle can them black and re install.
Thanks for any advice or ideas.
As long as you're going to the trouble of disassembling the spring packs, I'd paint each leaf with SLIP PLATE dry lubricant. This stuff really works, and it's worth the effort.
SLIP Plate #1Dry Film Lubricant, 1 Gal - Penetrants and Lubricants - Lubricants - 1WVL3 : Grainger Industrial Supply
I have heard good things about slip plate, but have no personal experience.
What brand are your springs? Are they "heavies" or other? How many leafs in the front and rear packs? How tight are your shackle bolts and spring pins (fixed end)?
MAF's new Mojave springs have a thin piece of plastic sheet between each leaf to space them apart so there is less friction and resistance to movement (flex). The plastic (maybe teflon?) only extends a few inches to each side of the center pin. Check out their website. If I ever take my springs apart, I will do both the slip plate and the thin plastic or metal spacers.
One weekend in Hot Springs and your springs would be butter.
What brand are your springs? Are they "heavies" or other? How many leafs in the front and rear packs? How tight are your shackle bolts and spring pins (fixed end)?
MAF's new Mojave springs have a thin piece of plastic sheet between each leaf to space them apart so there is less friction and resistance to movement (flex). The plastic (maybe teflon?) only extends a few inches to each side of the center pin. Check out their website. If I ever take my springs apart, I will do both the slip plate and the thin plastic or metal spacers.
One weekend in Hot Springs and your springs would be butter.
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- #387
mine aren't squeky now but I figured while I had them out I would look at taking them apart to make sure they weren't rotted through and clean them. Should I not go to this trouble?
supposedly I have a 4 inch sky jacker suspension...see pics....I don't think they look like heavies and I haven't measured bolts and pins yet.
im guessing that will get expensive but I may pursue that route if I dont use the above product.
Thanks fellas and here are some pics so yall can help me decide if I need to break the packs apart while they are off the truck. it rides stiff so im removing the lowest 2 (smallest) leafs from each pack and putting new bushings and shackles on. I was most concerned with the front end shackles which are very rusted. see pic 1...this looks like surface rust but the inside view around the bushings is pitted pretty bad.
Looking for some driver and passenger hard doors for the 74 fj 40.
Holla if ya got some.
Holla if ya got some.
Lash et al. Dave designed and tested the Mojave springs, but they're manufactured in India. He doesn't stock spring steel. I doubt you could locate him this week anyway. I talked to him a couple of days ago and he was about to embark on a long road trip.
Personal choice, but I'd do it if they were mine, while you have them taken apart and cleaned. IMO coating with SLIP PLATE is equivalent or possibly even superior to the polymer film used between leaves of the Mojave springs. BTW, don't get it on your hands.
Skyjacker doesn't offer medium or heavy versions of their springs. There's only one option.
If you're working within a budget like the rest of us, sand and paint the old shackles. If not, swap 'em out for anti-inversion shackles. CCOT sells a reasonably priced version. So does SOR, but they'll rip you a new one on shipping.
CCOT: Shackle - Tri - Kits
Don't forget that you'll need new u-bolts. Best price I've seen is at Mark's Offroad. www.marksoffroad.net
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- #391
Thanks Lee im learning alot and we are justifying the tech in this thread.
I will look into getting some slip plate and I all ready have CCOT shackles for it. Why are new u bolts necessary? Couldn't I clean and repaint the ones I have? I need to get under the truck and evaluate the bump stops as well. Nolan and I also discussed new shocks, but I may wait and see how this work dampens the ride.
I will look into getting some slip plate and I all ready have CCOT shackles for it. Why are new u bolts necessary? Couldn't I clean and repaint the ones I have? I need to get under the truck and evaluate the bump stops as well. Nolan and I also discussed new shocks, but I may wait and see how this work dampens the ride.
You can get away with reusing your old u-bolts, provided you aren't planning to do any hard core rock crawling or off roading. Conventional wisdom says that u-bolts are stressed and become prone to breakage after years of use. They're routinely replaced when a suspension is swapped out. That said, I think they'd be fine for in-town driving and mall wheeling. Even if one failed, you wouldn't be stranded.
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- #393
well ill keep them for right now just so I can get it streetable again but will certainly upgrade to new ones when cash and time permit.....thanks again....im digging through threads now on install and various sets ups (all though I know I simply want to soften and lower my ride slightly for now)
I agree with the Groganator. old OEM u-bolts seem to outlast any of the aftermarket versions, most of which are made of Chicom steel these days.
Nolen, I had an excellent Chipotle burrito in Dallas on Monday. I'd swear the place was haunted by your ghost. Or maybe it was just their Halloween decorations.
Come to the secret lair.....
I forgot to comment on this. I spoke to Dave about this on Monday. He designed and field tested the Mojave line of leaf springs. The prototypes were made in California. Dave/4+ does not build or assemble the springs at his shop in Arizona.
They are built to his specs, but he is not involved in the manufacturing process. Mojave spring production is subcontracted to the Betts Spring Company
Betts Spring Manufacturing, Inc.
They're manufactured at a Betts facility in India and shipped to Man-A-Fre.
Correct my phone jacked me that he DOESNT manu the springs. I have dealt with him direct many times. I would buy the mojave if he would sell me a set and not have to deal with MAF. MAF = over freight charges.
Later
Second that. MAF is almost as bad as SOR on ripoff shipping charges.
For those who don't know, Mojave 40 (front) springs are 4" longer than stock and will only work with a shackle reversal. Dave said that if there's sufficient demand, they may eventually offer a shorter version for non-SR applications.
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- #400
OEM ubolts....ill file that away too....thanks Lee and all for the input.
paging Rob Wilder---post a step by step for fixing that carb float for me if you see this.
I think that will fix my issue
for others: stock 2f, dui and it cranks right up cold but then dies and I have to crank a few times to get it to fire......Andy and Rob believe the float needs to be adjusted in the carb.
that is all...............
paging Rob Wilder---post a step by step for fixing that carb float for me if you see this.
I think that will fix my issue
for others: stock 2f, dui and it cranks right up cold but then dies and I have to crank a few times to get it to fire......Andy and Rob believe the float needs to be adjusted in the carb.
that is all...............