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No real logic. I just want to keep it as close to stock as possible. It just feels like a carb is the way to go.

Gonna check w troll hole tomorrow.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD, and hopefully approved by the NSA.
 
I'm not making a judgement. I was just curious about the logic. His rig .... Do whatever he wants.

They are not race cars so why put disc brakes on them? If you don't plan to run them off road why put lifts and oversized tires on them? Webers are not stock so why worry about staying as stock as possible?

If it were my truck I would either fix the current weber(cheapest option) or look into EFI (best option) but that's just me.
 
The weber came with the truck. I'm not partial to it. Just want to get this thing running. I'm sure afi would b a great solution but want to try this route first.

I can pick up a new weber for around $300, and bolt right on.

Or I can go with trollhole carb, but problem there is I don't have any of the stock air cleaner components.

Guess I will start checking into options further tomorrow...

Sent from my iPad using IH8MUD, and hopefully NSA approved.
 
A weber is not a very complex carb and a kit should be very cheap (guessing $20-$30). A leak, weather vacuum or fuel, should be an easy fix.

I have yet to see a weber that does not run a little rich. Not good for fuel economy or for ring wear. Bodean has the best set up weber I have ever seen so I would follow his recommendation and have his "guy" go through your carb.
 
Fuel for thought.

It's been my experience with carb setups is that if they are not run on a regular basis, then they do not run right. constant little issues like harder starts, rough idling, hesitation. I like my stuff to run. I want to jump in start it up and go. I don't want to HAVE to fiddle with it to get it to go.

if ya put fuel injection on then most of the future trouble that you will have with a carb set up will not exist.

Most of the people that i know of said that they wish they would have gone straight to FI sooner.

Again, do what ya want. It's your 40 and it came out came out beautiful. Good luck with whatever you decide.
 
Any good carb man should be able to get the Weber going right. A Trollhole carb is good but you are going to have a lot more money in that option because you don't have all of the associated stock parts to get it back stock. Do you have the linkage and all of the spacers and plates to make it back stock?
 
Probably need a gas pedal too if going back to Aisin carb.
 
kit it
put a Holley fuel psi reg set to 2 lb or less

& put a brass float the plastic always absorb fuel & get heavy along with high fuel psi make em run rich

proper jetting is important but if it was bought for the engine it should be OK
by it`s design it will always be a little long to crank hot cause the fuel bowl vents direct to the air horn thus causing a vapor flood just fold the pedal partial down will speed up the crank time
 
Yep mine is set at 2 psi
 
Which OEM one are you referring to?
 
Which OEM one are you referring to?

There is a regulator that is in line. It's hardly noticed most times. May have been removed on yours when Weber was installed.
 
There is a regulator that is in line. It's hardly noticed most times. May have been removed on yours when Weber was installed.

I may be wrong. I just went to SOR diagram and could not find what I thought was OEM regulator.
 
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