Your perseverance is paying off. 
Build 4 door Fj45 on 80 series chassis
- Thread starter Blackknight1
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- Thread starter
- #403
Thanks guys. Your help support and advice are definitel a major part of it all. Happy New year to all of you !
- Thread starter
- #404
We pulled out the brake plumbing system in order to install the new stainless steel tubing. It was a difficult task, so we decided to finish that up when the cab and everything else comes off the frame and painted. The old tubing did not look bad, bet i always replumb my builds with stainless steel tubing. Definitely more durable and looks way cleaner.
I've been researching ways to improve my braking system and the concensus seems to lean towards hydroboost. I don't think i' ve ever driven a car that had that system on but i admit that it does seem to be a better option than a vacuum operated system and definitely a better option than no power assist at all. So .... i went back to that donor Suburban and yanked out the hydroboost system.
This one also came with the maste cylinder.
Things have rarely just fitted during this build , so i did not expect this huge unit to be thrown in and bolted on..... indeed , the bolt pattern on the GM mounting plate is different. To add to the difficulty, there are two keyed passages on the threaded part of the booster tho keep it in place.
Another observation i made is thatthe GM brake master cylinder,if used with the hydrobooster sits way too high and won't allow the hood to close.
I have a solution for that, so we are making a new booster adapter out of 3/16 gauge steel plate and Wilwood gets the nod to replace the master.
I've been researching ways to improve my braking system and the concensus seems to lean towards hydroboost. I don't think i' ve ever driven a car that had that system on but i admit that it does seem to be a better option than a vacuum operated system and definitely a better option than no power assist at all. So .... i went back to that donor Suburban and yanked out the hydroboost system.
This one also came with the maste cylinder.
Things have rarely just fitted during this build , so i did not expect this huge unit to be thrown in and bolted on..... indeed , the bolt pattern on the GM mounting plate is different. To add to the difficulty, there are two keyed passages on the threaded part of the booster tho keep it in place.
Another observation i made is thatthe GM brake master cylinder,if used with the hydrobooster sits way too high and won't allow the hood to close.
I have a solution for that, so we are making a new booster adapter out of 3/16 gauge steel plate and Wilwood gets the nod to replace the master.
- Thread starter
- #405
I measured the lenghts from the end of the push rod on 80 series brake booster to the one on the hydroboost unit. The latter is only slightly longer so i'll call it negligeable for now.
The attachment to the pedal is also different but it's not gonna be too hard get around .
The attachment to the pedal is also different but it's not gonna be too hard get around .
- Thread starter
- #406
The new booster mounting plate is good and ready to go. God ! I want me a plasma table.....
- Thread starter
- #407
As you can see in the pictures , the GM master cylinder sits too high. I know that the Wilwood's master cylinder sits lower, so i think it will work. I might have to modify my brake pedalsome to get the push rod to bolt into place ..... i like how it's turning out
- Thread starter
- #409
It's a hobby. I've done things for friends . I train police dogs for a living.
- Thread starter
- #410
I have a Wilwood master cylinder on my 69 Mustang. Let's try it on this monster and see what we have
- Thread starter
- #411
Eh eh eh ! Per-fect. Let's order the same one for it and brakes are officially half way done. I'll do the tubing when the body will be off the chassis
I’m guessing that the electric motor on the transfer case is Your Center, DEF lock actuator.Yesterday, we pulled the transfer case and the black box to finally address s***er cable bracketry and installation . I think i got it figured out. I had some 3/16 stainless plate scraps laying around that i decided to use to make those.
When we last had the transfer caseout of the truck, we realized that there was a damaged pressure spring and the steel ball that goes under it was missing all together. I jad ordered them months ago from a dealrship in Florida and was waiting for the right occasion to put them in.
We did that and the t-case shifts from high to neutral to low pretty smoothly and seems to stay in the selected gear, thanks to those damaged and missing parts being replaced.
I checked on line but found no explanation of the use of that electric motor on top of the T-case. I am assuming that it must be to electrically engage 4x4 low and high gears. I have no idea whether it works or not but i like the idea of shifting it manually anyway.
The air box also got some attention. 16 gauge stainless steel , plexyglass , 4" pipes and a K&N washable pod make up the list of ingredients for this simple recepe . I'll post pics of it later today.
I'm having the time of my life building this thing but i'm slowly but surely getting "winded". I learned my lesson...... no more rust buckets for me. I'm putting waaaay too much time, money and effort into this.
View attachment 3507380
View attachment 3507381
- Thread starter
- #413
Thanks for the info.
- Thread starter
- #414
Some parts came in today. Finally , my Black box's cooling system is nearly complete. All that is missing now is the inline filter i'm wanting to install.
I needed some straight 4" 304 stainless pipe for the snorkel and that came in also. I decided not to use the plastic air intake . I think the complete stainlesssystem will look better. We'll see it tomorrow.
I needed some straight 4" 304 stainless pipe for the snorkel and that came in also. I decided not to use the plastic air intake . I think the complete stainlesssystem will look better. We'll see it tomorrow.
- Thread starter
- #415
Remember that Harley Davidson oil bag i wanted to use as an oil tank for my black box ? Well i could not find the cap .... looked all over for it , but it was nowhere to be found. It got to the point where i considered ditching it and the idea all together until i stumbled upon a cap on ebay. It was only 28 bucks , but there was no way to be sure that it was the right one since i had no idea what year and model that bike was.
Received it. Tried it on. Low and behold , it's the right one !
Received it. Tried it on. Low and behold , it's the right one !
Do you live in close proximity to the beach ?
The skirts that I sent you are already starting to rust !
The skirts that I sent you are already starting to rust !
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- Thread starter
- #417
Yeah, humidity is a big problem here. We're only a few minutes from the ocean. Thanks again for the skirts !
- Thread starter
- #418
Ok. I had an issue with the Toyota brake pedal attachment being different compared to the one from GM.
A piece of stainless.....A few turns on the lathe and this guy came out. Good to go !
A piece of stainless.....A few turns on the lathe and this guy came out. Good to go !
- Thread starter
- #419
In other news. The shipper called today and needs to know how much the supercharger costed me.... i played stupid asked : what are you building ?
Poor girl had the time of her life trying to explain to me how they received my supercharger bit can't seem to find it in their warehouse
That sure as heck pisses me off a whole lot....
At least they're trying to reimburse me without making me jump thru hoops . I guess i'll drive it N/A for a bit and get another supercharger later.
Poor girl had the time of her life trying to explain to me how they received my supercharger bit can't seem to find it in their warehouse
That sure as heck pisses me off a whole lot....
At least they're trying to reimburse me without making me jump thru hoops . I guess i'll drive it N/A for a bit and get another supercharger later.
- Thread starter
- #420
Can't let that stop me . More work got done
