Mike Shull
Let’s go…
How do you like your harness from LSX? Did you send in your harness as a core? Did you get your PCM flashed by them?
I plan to work on my engine and chassis wiring once mine is painted and I bookmarked this for later.
4 door Fj45 on 80 series chassis (9 Viewers)
- Thread starter Blackknight1
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I plan to work on my engine and chassis wiring once mine is painted and I bookmarked this for later.
- Thread starter
- #362
I sent him my harness and he took out whatever was unnecessary. Everything is in place so i'd say that he did a good job. He even added a fuse box.
I saw some new ones from China on ebay that were gonna cost me less but i was also told that sometimes some plugs do not match. Sending in my harness saved me from those issues.
The ecu was programmed by Larry Scherle. Unfortunately Larry retired this year. Company name was Larry's Electric. Tons of knowledge from this guy.
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- #363
Here are some pics of the oil cooler, the oe air intake and of the truck as it looks today.
Not to hijack, but I also just got my harness back from them. They did a nice job and turn around time was fast, less than a week. I did strip off all of the sprial wrap before I sent it down. Made it easier to get in the box.
Mike Shull
Let’s go…
Thanks for the info! I think that it is time for someone else to do the modifications for a chance and I will probably go this route. Looks clean and simple.
He doesnt reflash the comp though. He referred me to LT1swap for that. I just keep forgetting to get it in the mail. Been sitting boxed up on my workbench for about a month now.... lol
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- #367
Yeah ! I used Lt1 swaps.com to get a 93 Covette's Lt1 ecu reflashed. He sent it back to me saying that the ecu was not good and that he could not do anything with it. Larry Scherle built me a new harness and reflashed the ecu for this build and the '79 Wagoneer we swapped the Lt1 in. The Wagoneer starts and runs well.
Mike Shull
Let’s go…
Good to know. I was a little concerned at the low price and disclaimer that manual transmission configurations might require local fine tuning to get the idle correct. I’ve had idle air issues with the older vortec engines and I’d rather not have to deal with that.Yeah ! I used Lt1 swaps.com to get a 93 Covette's Lt1 ecu reflashed. He sent it back to me saying that the ecu was not good and that he could not do anything with it. Larry Scherle built me a new harness and reflashed the ecu for this build and the '79 Wagoneer we swapped the Lt1 in. The Wagoneer starts and runs well.
Do you have any other recommendations on where to get a PCM tuned since Larry is retired?
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- Thread starter
- #369
Try Justin @ Speartech. I have not had a chance to have him do any work for me yet but i've spoken to him a few times. He seems to know his stuff and wholeheartedly shares info. Nice guy !
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- #370
Justin Vetter
+1(765)313-6504
Mike Shull
Let’s go…
Excellent. Thank you. I bookmarked this for later. Hopefully not too much later!
- Thread starter
- #372
Yesterday we changed the door pins on all doors. Someone in the past weldedone of the hinges to the cab
. I had a really good time trying to get that off without damaging anything else ..... WHY DO PEOPLE DO THESE THINGS ?
My doors were sagging big time before this, but they're nice and thight now. The door pin kit i got also came in with some nice bronze bushings i think that might be a better option than the nylon ones that Toyota used initially.
We made sure to use anti seize compound on them and that was the end of that. We had to do some welding to repaira broken hinge mount that kept us from being able to get the inner bolts to thighten down. Pretty straight forward.
Moving on to fuel tanks.
. I had a really good time trying to get that off without damaging anything else ..... WHY DO PEOPLE DO THESE THINGS ? My doors were sagging big time before this, but they're nice and thight now. The door pin kit i got also came in with some nice bronze bushings i think that might be a better option than the nylon ones that Toyota used initially.
We made sure to use anti seize compound on them and that was the end of that. We had to do some welding to repaira broken hinge mount that kept us from being able to get the inner bolts to thighten down. Pretty straight forward.
Moving on to fuel tanks.
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- #373
We decided to install an overhead shelf . Built that fast . Again , in this build , space is no problem and this will be huge for keeping things well organized.
Sun visors and rear vew mirror will still be usable in their original spots
Built out of 16 gauge sheetmetal. It features separate storage compartments for the driver and the passeger. The space in the center can acomodate a cb unit, a stereo or anything else.
I will line the bottom of it with rubber to prevent objects from sliding from one side to the other, or from falling on me while driving.
Sun visors and rear vew mirror will still be usable in their original spots
Built out of 16 gauge sheetmetal. It features separate storage compartments for the driver and the passeger. The space in the center can acomodate a cb unit, a stereo or anything else.
I will line the bottom of it with rubber to prevent objects from sliding from one side to the other, or from falling on me while driving.
- Thread starter
- #374
One more
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- #375
Ok. The overhead shelf is pretty much done . Mounting tabs are installed. Two on the passenger side, two on the driver's . Two more are welded on the inner side of the windshield frame.
I only need to decide whether i 'll paint it or have it covered with the same material we'll use to line the roof liner.
I only need to decide whether i 'll paint it or have it covered with the same material we'll use to line the roof liner.
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- #376
Today we got to work on the fuel tank. I had mentioned way back that i was considering using a Range Rover plastic tank as a primary and a '93 Corvette' s tank as a secondary.
We decided to modify and the old 80 series rock guard .... Looks like it'll work. More on that tomorrow.
We also installed a dome light in the overhead shelf. Came out of a Nissan Patrol.
Since i was out scavanging parts out of the patrol, i realized that i could also use the sun visors and mount them onto the shelf instead of on the winshield frame . They are a bit too big in relation to the size of the windshield but i have a solution for that
Found some toyota visors on line for the 40 series but those things are listed for over $160.00.
At this point , i could use the money on something more important. Here ate some pictures.
We decided to modify and the old 80 series rock guard .... Looks like it'll work. More on that tomorrow.
We also installed a dome light in the overhead shelf. Came out of a Nissan Patrol.
Since i was out scavanging parts out of the patrol, i realized that i could also use the sun visors and mount them onto the shelf instead of on the winshield frame . They are a bit too big in relation to the size of the windshield but i have a solution for that
Found some toyota visors on line for the 40 series but those things are listed for over $160.00.
At this point , i could use the money on something more important. Here ate some pictures.
You're pretty resourceful! Making progress and looking good.
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- #378
Thanks, man !
I wish i could go faster. First start is on my mind now. Getting little things done while we wait for the big ones to happen.
I appreciate the comment.
I wish i could go faster. First start is on my mind now. Getting little things done while we wait for the big ones to happen.
I appreciate the comment.
- Thread starter
- #379
Yesterday, we pulled the transfer case and the black box to finally address s***er cable bracketry and installation . I think i got it figured out. I had some 3/16 stainless plate scraps laying around that i decided to use to make those.
When we last had the transfer caseout of the truck, we realized that there was a damaged pressure spring and the steel ball that goes under it was missing all together. I jad ordered them months ago from a dealrship in Florida and was waiting for the right occasion to put them in.
We did that and the t-case shifts from high to neutral to low pretty smoothly and seems to stay in the selected gear, thanks to those damaged and missing parts being replaced.
I checked on line but found no explanation of the use of that electric motor on top of the T-case. I am assuming that it must be to electrically engage 4x4 low and high gears. I have no idea whether it works or not but i like the idea of shifting it manually anyway.
The air box also got some attention. 16 gauge stainless steel , plexyglass , 4" pipes and a K&N washable pod make up the list of ingredients for this simple recepe . I'll post pics of it later today.
I'm having the time of my life building this thing but i'm slowly but surely getting "winded". I learned my lesson...... no more rust buckets for me
. I'm putting waaaay too much time, money and effort into this.
When we last had the transfer caseout of the truck, we realized that there was a damaged pressure spring and the steel ball that goes under it was missing all together. I jad ordered them months ago from a dealrship in Florida and was waiting for the right occasion to put them in.
We did that and the t-case shifts from high to neutral to low pretty smoothly and seems to stay in the selected gear, thanks to those damaged and missing parts being replaced.
I checked on line but found no explanation of the use of that electric motor on top of the T-case. I am assuming that it must be to electrically engage 4x4 low and high gears. I have no idea whether it works or not but i like the idea of shifting it manually anyway.
The air box also got some attention. 16 gauge stainless steel , plexyglass , 4" pipes and a K&N washable pod make up the list of ingredients for this simple recepe . I'll post pics of it later today.
I'm having the time of my life building this thing but i'm slowly but surely getting "winded". I learned my lesson...... no more rust buckets for me
. I'm putting waaaay too much time, money and effort into this.
- Thread starter
- #380
Shifter bracket is done. Works like a charm !
