92 4in ONE lift. Stock other than that. Looking into 2fe swap in the near future.
3FE Owners Check-In (11 Viewers)
- Thread starter alkaline747trio
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Guys, please chime in...
1 - Clunk sound after suddenly letting off gas and (typically) transmission has not shifted. I'm able to avoid the clunk if I let off the gas very slowly. My truck also vibrates when it gets to 60-65 and it also makes a clunk from P to R or D. I'm thinking motor mounts and/or U Joints.
2 - Car won't start (No CEL) sometimes in the morning unless I press down the EFI relay. The EFI relay does get hot after running the car, but the no starting thing is 99% of the time when it is cold. I'm thinking relay box contacts?
Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
1 - Clunk sound after suddenly letting off gas and (typically) transmission has not shifted. I'm able to avoid the clunk if I let off the gas very slowly. My truck also vibrates when it gets to 60-65 and it also makes a clunk from P to R or D. I'm thinking motor mounts and/or U Joints.
2 - Car won't start (No CEL) sometimes in the morning unless I press down the EFI relay. The EFI relay does get hot after running the car, but the no starting thing is 99% of the time when it is cold. I'm thinking relay box contacts?
Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Not sure about the no start. My 91 chunks as well from what I have gathered that is very normal for the fj80s. Somebody said the clunk is its ball clunking together.
Living with the clunk, did the motor mounts just bc they were toast, but it did not help the clunk. Seems like you are on the right track with the efi relay, clean contacts, change relay, check connections.
Efi wiring and heat is a known issue, do a search, upgrade wiring, clean contacts, check your grounds, maybe add a heat shield
late reply- but after I looked into for other rides, and my 80, I'm cool with spaying over my defects with duplicolor rattlecan. Easier to fix when it gets scuffed and if I ever find a way to blow cash on a decent paint job, It's alot easier to remove. my 2 cents.
Really? That's a good tip. Thanks
does anything else need to be changed on a 91 front axle except for the drive flange upgrade to 95-96? Different birf length makes no difference?
Nope....just source some larger 95-97 flanges and swap them out. Yours are worn down, hence the back and forth slop when you're on and off the gas. It's a very misleading noise. I had ACC in Atl diagnose and fix mine years ago.
1991 FJ80. Owned for 2 years. 180k. Flaking clear coat, dent in the front corner. Interior is in great shape. I love the old toyota fabric seats, they seem indestructible.
When I bought it, the seller lied to me, and it was NOT smogged. (I'm in CA)
Redid the entire air rail, intake/exhaust gaskets, new vsv's, hoses. Full knuckle and brake job. All the windows had the tint badly scraped off, so I replaced all the side windows with tinted ones from the junkyard.
Currently the power steering pump or belts or pulley is complaining. Replaced the bearing in the idler pulley, not much better.
Just bought 33's and new steel rims. I like the look.
This is my 3rd cruiser. Loved my FJ60, but it was just too slow to be practical. Really loved my FZJ80 but it blew a head gasket. The 3FE is definitely slower, but hopefully it will last forever.
When I bought it, the seller lied to me, and it was NOT smogged. (I'm in CA)
Redid the entire air rail, intake/exhaust gaskets, new vsv's, hoses. Full knuckle and brake job. All the windows had the tint badly scraped off, so I replaced all the side windows with tinted ones from the junkyard.
Currently the power steering pump or belts or pulley is complaining. Replaced the bearing in the idler pulley, not much better.
Just bought 33's and new steel rims. I like the look.
This is my 3rd cruiser. Loved my FJ60, but it was just too slow to be practical. Really loved my FZJ80 but it blew a head gasket. The 3FE is definitely slower, but hopefully it will last forever.
91 axles are shorter aren't they? My original factory 91 axle on bottom compared to a longfield that is cut for both versions of the flange- I don't think the larger flanges would leave enough room to put the C clip on. (PS, hubs from a 1985 Toyota mini truck DO bolt right on your factory axles using the inner 1991 C-clip position)
Bolt right on. You then have the option of locking the T-case and have 2wd, and 2wd low range. It's nice for backing up trailers into tight spots. Still clunks.
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The parts numbers are different, would be nice the know definitvly if the 95-97 drive plates will work before I order them. If it is a wear issue, then new 91’ drive plates should solve it, if that is the issue. Hmm.91 axles are shorter aren't they? My original factory 91 axle on bottom compared to a longfield that is cut for both versions of the flange- I don't think the larger flanges would leave enough room to put the C clip on. (PS, hubs from a 1985 Toyota mini truck DO bolt right on your factory axles using the inner 1991 C-clip position)
Bolt right on. You then have the option of locking the T-case and have 2wd, and 2wd low range. It's nice for backing up trailers into tight spots. Still clunks.
For sure 110% 95-97 plates will not fit on a 1991. The thickness of the drive plates on the front hubs were increased after April 1994 (build date). The new drive flange number is 43421-60040 and the old one is 43421-60022. If you try to install a later drive plate into an earlier truck, you will not be able to install the circlip on the end of the axle shaft.
You can remove the grease cap on the end and jack up one tire (CDL locked) and rotate it back and forth and easily see if there is any slop between the axle and plate. Removing the whole thing usually isn't that hard either, but the cone washer can sometimes be a pita to remove. I use a brass drift and smack the end of the stud like it owes you money. Try to drive it like a nail and they pop right out. Leave the nut flush with the end of the studs. Jacking up one tire with the CDL locked and rotating that tire forward and backward will show you exactly where the slop and the clunk is coming from. If it's the T-case, it's normal. There will also be some slop in the U-joints, front diff, birfield joints, and finally drive plates.
That is what everything is leading towards. Its got to be specific to the 91, like when I bought new birfs. Thanks for the troubleshooting tip on the driveplates. I figure there is slop there, and at the diff, and at the u joints maybe. Either way, it still works fine. Im use to it, but new passengers are not. Lol. Odd thing is that when the drivetrain is cold, I get no clunk. Only when it warms up after driving a couple miles. Thanks again.
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The clunk sound i had recently was my transfer case. My gears were shredded from years of use.
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how many miles did you get out of it before a rebuild?
I've got a 91 fj80 that just crested 300k. Looking to give it some love. Any thoughts on seafoam through the brake vacuum tube into the intake manifold?
Nice rig. What wheels are those? Are they 15"?
250k, but it was cheaper to replace the transfer case rather than rebuilding it.
