Are your O2 sensors recent?
3FE Owners Check-In (8 Viewers)
- Thread starter alkaline747trio
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Remove and clean MAF AFM, throttle body and 02 sensors with maf cleaner <~~ easier on the sensors. Test fuel pressure and replace fuel pressure regulator or dampener if necessary. If fuel pressure is too high because regulator is old then the fuel pump will fail shortly. Replace fuel filter with OEM, adjust valves when hot (i like to idle the engine with the valve cover off). See pic for order and numbers. This will bring you up to the 10.5 mpg average range. Do the plugs, wires and fuel injectors (with new rubber orings and round seal x3) if you want that extra umph and 11.3.
Maybe the PCV so u dont blow your seal. Because blowing seals is bad, especially when your laying on your back and you get dirty oil all over your face.
Maybe the PCV so u dont blow your seal. Because blowing seals is bad, especially when your laying on your back and you get dirty oil all over your face.
Given all that you have done so far and if you have also followed Jon Held's 3FE tune up guide (which includes making sure valves are adjusted) you are pretty much approaching the most that you can get out of the truck. Check that your timing is good. If it is you can always advance it a few degrees for some modest gains. Negative things that can also affect MPG on these rigs are tires (bigger ones or underinflated), lifts, and roof racks.
The fuel smell is due to removing the cats; I have the same condition after new exhaust system sans the cats.
X2 on what FJ80 Money Pit posted.
X2 on what FJ80 Money Pit posted.
Just picked up a 91 this weekend. Got tons of baselining to do and new leaks seem to be popping up every day but I love it way more than my lx 470 not dissapointed at all that I sold it to get an 80.
Post pics!
Welcome. Post pic please
Sorry I forgot my password and was to lazy to try and figure it out on my phone, going old school on the desktop.
35s, OME lift, ARB bumper, badlands winch and a whole bunch of leaks I need to address. Runs a little rough under 2k rpm
35s, OME lift, ARB bumper, badlands winch and a whole bunch of leaks I need to address. Runs a little rough under 2k rpm
looks very clean!
Thanks. Its been repainted but ya its still nice, has 95% less rust than my 04 LX had lol.
Congrats! Welcome to the club. Runs a little rough under 2k rpm???= check your throttle body vacuum vents holes on the top and make sure they're open, check the EGR VSV, replace your vacuum lines and ensure you metal vacuum assembly under the intake isnt rusted out. I think the EGR is not closing at low rpm.
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So its had the egr and emissions stuff deleted, Im gonna have to check an actual vacuum diagram to see whats done right and whats not. I was under the impression the the hoses on the throttle body could be disconected completely but I noticed one is still attached and goes to a solenoid that then runs to the charcoal canister.
Alright where would you start ignition system and o2 sensors is all fairly new. Valves probably need adjustment but I don’t have time to do that anytime soon.
My biggest issue is the egr valve, I believe it leaks a little exhaust gas by all the time. Symptoms are almost dying when coming to a stop off the highway. Rougher idle with egr installed. I take the whole valve off and install a wits ends “key chain”. Doing this make my land cruiser run way better and feels like it has more power.
I might hear a little exhaust leak but I can tell if it’s valve noise or exhaust leak noise.
My problem is with my current work schedule I only have a couple hours a week to work on it and I need to get it smogged in the next week or 2 for registration.
Marco I don’t know if you meant to post that quote but there was no other text added.
Looking at the smog sheet I also noticed that my idle rpm was 730, in gear my idle usually sits around 600 in neutral it sits around 650, I wonder what is up with that rpm reading
Looking at the smog sheet I also noticed that my idle rpm was 730, in gear my idle usually sits around 600 in neutral it sits around 650, I wonder what is up with that rpm reading
Why not
Sorry, I meant to say why not get the valves adjusted properly and go from there? It will only takes 2-4 hrs to get them adjusted. Your idle is little low based on your readings. Also get your timing set properly when you get your values adjusted.
Timing is set dead on. The reason I haven’t done the valves is because I don’t have the 2-4 hours right due to work. I’ve never adjusted them before so I’m sure it would be closer to 4.
How much is your time worth? I was in the same time boat, paid a shop $300 to complete. I supplied the valve cover gasket and spark plug grommets to make sure there was no downtime.
I’m in not in California so not sure all the rules, but here if we fail we have a certain amount of time and cost to fix the problem, and once you hit that time you apply for an extension.
If I were you I’d call the number on that sheet and see what all your parameters are to correct the failed test and by when.
I’m in not in California so not sure all the rules, but here if we fail we have a certain amount of time and cost to fix the problem, and once you hit that time you apply for an extension.
If I were you I’d call the number on that sheet and see what all your parameters are to correct the failed test and by when.
My first adjustment went great- it took like 90 minutes
Would valves being out of adjustment cause it to fail at idle like this? I’d rather take my time and do the valves myself since I don’t have a shop in my area that I trust my land cruiser with
