OK I will go and hunt you one down! Get the frame and tub. Maybe someone wants to sell there project off?
3FE FJ40 RTCustoms build.
- Thread starter mmw68
- Start date
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COOL then you will have 2 diesel 40's! I will keep an eye out for one matching your description!
where is the serial number located on the block? it's pretty rusty (came from the east coast) i can't find it.
Front L/s probably covered in oil and grime only true flat spot on the whole engine
still couldn't find it, isn't too oily. front left side? i pulled my pumps so the only thing in my way really is my alt. and exhaust manifolds. i felt around with my fingers where i couldn't see to. where would it be in relation to something?
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that's as far as i can pull my IG out. is this the stocker?
- Thread starter
- #269
Alex - please post this in the forsale section, Iam trying to keep this tread to just 3fe40 tech.. Thanks you - Mark
- Thread starter
- #270
Today's one 
job.. I managed to find some time between the list of "things" my wife had me do around the house today, to finally work on the vacuum leak at the CSI.
I took the injector off and tapped and removed the broken screw. It looks like in our rush to get me to round up - it was cross also threaded. So, I'll have a excuse to buy that tap/dies/thread restorer set I've been wanting.
job.. I managed to find some time between the list of "things" my wife had me do around the house today, to finally work on the vacuum leak at the CSI. I took the injector off and tapped and removed the broken screw. It looks like in our rush to get me to round up - it was cross also threaded. So, I'll have a excuse to buy that tap/dies/thread restorer set I've been wanting.
YEP 1 beer job
Nice extractor where did you get it?? Sorry about the bolt. So is it ready???
Nice extractor where did you get it?? Sorry about the bolt. So is it ready???
- Thread starter
- #272
The Extractor worked like a charm. I just picked up three sizes at Lowes, nothing fancy - it just a Kobalt. Used a brass bar to tap it in a little, sprayed some penetrating oil on the screw and it came right out. All of a 15 minute job. 
The rest will have to wait until Monday - I don't have a tap/thread set.
The rest will have to wait until Monday - I don't have a tap/thread set.
- Thread starter
- #273
Tempature gauge question
My temperature gauge in the stock FJ40 dash has never worked. So Iam doing a little diggin tonight about it and came across this tread. What are other 3FE40 people doing about this? Does the 3FE ECU need a reading off the temp sending unit? Iam thinking about this because I think the engine light will come on when the 3FE overheats.. (don't ask me how I know) Can I just use a 3FE sensor in the T-stat and send that to the 2F FJ40 OEM gauge? And not worry about the ECU?
I know pappy and a few other have just gone with after market gauge clusters, but I want to retain the stock look if possible. https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/141758-temp-fuel-gauge-short.html
My temperature gauge in the stock FJ40 dash has never worked. So Iam doing a little diggin tonight about it and came across this tread. What are other 3FE40 people doing about this? Does the 3FE ECU need a reading off the temp sending unit? Iam thinking about this because I think the engine light will come on when the 3FE overheats.. (don't ask me how I know) Can I just use a 3FE sensor in the T-stat and send that to the 2F FJ40 OEM gauge? And not worry about the ECU?
I know pappy and a few other have just gone with after market gauge clusters, but I want to retain the stock look if possible. https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/141758-temp-fuel-gauge-short.html
You overheated? When?
I was kidding about selling.........
I was kidding about selling.........
Mark,
My guage has always worked so I plan on using it. I will preface my remarks by stating htat I have a '91 3FE...
There are two water temp senders. The first one (W2) is the temp sender for the combination guage. As far as I know they are all the same so the guage should work fine with it. The second one is the EFI water temo sender (E1). This one is used by the ECU. If it is open or shorted, the ECU will through code #22. What this does to actual engine operation, I do not know. But your "check engine" light will come on.
I can post the relevant pages, but I don't know if they are the same for your year of engine. The '91 FSM is nice and gives Ohm ranges forthe guages but the '73 does not. But I do have both guages in the garage so I could check to see if they are the same.
Hope htat helps,
- Chris
- Thread starter
- #276
Chris - Thanks - any diagrams would be helpful. My engine is a 1988, and the FSM is different from a 1989-90. I can't imagine that the engine temp would be very useful to the ECU - except to throw a code.
Alex - I overheated on my old FJ62, bad fan clutch and then I had to replace the radiator.
Alex - I overheated on my old FJ62, bad fan clutch and then I had to replace the radiator.
Diagrams
OK I will scan yours and send it. Guess this means you want your FSM back?
OK I will scan yours and send it. Guess this means you want your FSM back?
- Thread starter
- #278
Yesterday I drove the 3FE40 to the post office and back...and the moment I pulled into the garage I saw steam pouring from the hood. It turned out to be a loose coupling on my chrome bling bling top radiator hose. That was a easy fix but I decided today was the day I dig into the temperature gauge again.
First I read thru Marshall's great write up regarding his problem with his instrument cluster.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/37506-76-fj40-guage-problems.html
And I began to trace the wires, and test the gauge. My fuel Gauge has always worked, so I did not think it was a short in the instrument cluster. I took it out a last month when I installed the LED's and gave it a good cleaning.
I went ahead and used a 9volt battery and tested the temperature gauge. It was working fine. So, I began to move the battery down the wiring chain. First straight to the two connectors directly to the gauge, ( A & B in Marshall's diagram), then to the small pins where the wiring harness connects,(Pin #6 and B) then all the way out to the connector under the hood. Everything was working fine off the 9volt battery
The next thing I did was plug back in the instrument cluster and run test wire from the connector under the hood and started the truck. When I touched the wire to a ground, the temp gauge worked. Don't do this for too long, I think I read you will burn out the tempature gauge this way.
FYI - the connector under the hood in the middle of the firewall, is for the carb fan, and the temp sensor. The red wire goes to the temp sensor and yellow wire is hot when the ignition is on. So this is a nice place to get a ignition hot for your fuel pump. Use a test light to confirm things, because the color of the wires might be different.
Next I ran a yellow wire to the sensor in the t-stat....and it was not working. I pulled the sensor out and it looked like hammered crap. So I called the dealer - they wanted $78 bucks for a sensor!
I called a few other places, and they had one in stock, for $28, but they where across town. Then I called my local Toyota Mechanic. He scored me one with in three hours from a parts house...for $6! 
Once I installed the new sensor - everything worked great!! All I need to do now is clean up the wires.
First I read thru Marshall's great write up regarding his problem with his instrument cluster.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/37506-76-fj40-guage-problems.html
And I began to trace the wires, and test the gauge. My fuel Gauge has always worked, so I did not think it was a short in the instrument cluster. I took it out a last month when I installed the LED's and gave it a good cleaning.
I went ahead and used a 9volt battery and tested the temperature gauge. It was working fine. So, I began to move the battery down the wiring chain. First straight to the two connectors directly to the gauge, ( A & B in Marshall's diagram), then to the small pins where the wiring harness connects,(Pin #6 and B) then all the way out to the connector under the hood. Everything was working fine off the 9volt battery
The next thing I did was plug back in the instrument cluster and run test wire from the connector under the hood and started the truck. When I touched the wire to a ground, the temp gauge worked. Don't do this for too long, I think I read you will burn out the tempature gauge this way.
FYI - the connector under the hood in the middle of the firewall, is for the carb fan, and the temp sensor. The red wire goes to the temp sensor and yellow wire is hot when the ignition is on. So this is a nice place to get a ignition hot for your fuel pump.
Use a test light to confirm things, because the color of the wires might be different.
Next I ran a yellow wire to the sensor in the t-stat....and it was not working. I pulled the sensor out and it looked like hammered crap. So I called the dealer - they wanted $78 bucks for a sensor!
I called a few other places, and they had one in stock, for $28, but they where across town. Then I called my local Toyota Mechanic. He scored me one with in three hours from a parts house...for $6!
Once I installed the new sensor - everything worked great!! All I need to do now is clean up the wires.
Don't forget about the power steering too.
matt.mcinnes
2F-ETI
Put a GM pump in there and never look back if you can mount one on the other side, Toyota pumps suck and are expensive to rebuild or replace.
FJ40-2F-ETI-LOCKED-N-LOADED - BUILD UP - POWER STEERING
FJ40-2F-ETI-LOCKED-N-LOADED - BUILD UP - POWER STEERING
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