Oh damn, i used the windsheild washer fluid!
3B won't start, or even fire
- Thread starter Diesel Wannabe
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- Thread starter
- #44
I did get it to fire after multiple bleedings and using a heat gun. It started up, idled and warmed up for a few minutes and made it 90% around a 2 block course from my house. Towed it back to my garage - no fuel at the injectors. I'm flying out tomorrow to the Rose Bowl in LA (Indiana fan) so will get back to this as soon as I can.
BTW, I did return the plumbing to the fuel tank rather than trying to run out of the bottle in the engine compartment.
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I would say almosty certainly an air leak into your fuel system.
Die kleine Dieselrücklaufleitung vom 4. Zylinder führt zurück zur Dieselpumpe. Dort ist sie mit der Zuleitung verlötet. An dieser Lötstelle kann sich ein Haarriss bilden. Es tritt kein Dieselkraftstoff aus, aber Luft wird angesaugt.
- Thread starter
- #48
I don't really know where to go for my next step on isolating the air leak.
Hardy - I did replace the steel return line from injector 4 when I rebuilt the lift pump.
I am thinking about replacing the fuel tank with an OEM one. Grasping at straws really. Is there any way that the IP itself can have an internal issue causing an air leak?
Hardy - I did replace the steel return line from injector 4 when I rebuilt the lift pump.
I am thinking about replacing the fuel tank with an OEM one. Grasping at straws really. Is there any way that the IP itself can have an internal issue causing an air leak?
You've tried an isolated source of diesel direct to the input to the lift pump? A length of hose into a jerry can for instance.. even just a large juice bottle cable tied in place (or held by a passenger) with a rough hole in the lid for a length of hose. This will help you localise the issue.
- Thread starter
- #50
Yes, that caused some confusion in the pictures from my first post. Still dies after running for a bit. I guess that argues against a new fuel tank, but I'm just not sure what to try next.
Sorry I havent reviewed the whole thread, the guide below relates to the 2H engine.. 3B is identical in this regard, crush washers, return line, inlet pump gauze screen.. all need to be checked. With the crush washers, I'd just replace them all personally.
2H - Sucking Air/Fuel Restriction
Der BJ40 von 1979 hat einen B-Motor und kein Sedimentationsventil. Wurde dieses Ventil zusammen mit dem 3B-Motor eingebaut?
Und ist das EDIC komplett ausgebaut? Der Motor schaltet sich über das EDIC ab, wenn der Öldruck zu niedrig ist. Eine lose Verbindung am Öldruckschalter könnte dann ebenfalls die Ursache sein.
Und ist das EDIC komplett ausgebaut? Der Motor schaltet sich über das EDIC ab, wenn der Öldruck zu niedrig ist. Eine lose Verbindung am Öldruckschalter könnte dann ebenfalls die Ursache sein.
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- Thread starter
- #53
My 3B is from a 1985 Canadian BJ70, 12 volt. The EDIC system was locked up so is removed and I control fuel with a PTO cable. There is no cutoff to the IP for oil pressure with this setup.
- Thread starter
- #54
Not sure what to try for my next step(s). All fuel feed/return lines are clear to see bubbles. I've bleed it and run it several times, it'll start and run 5-10 minutes before dying from lack of fuel. Options:
1. Replace fuel tank with new - not likely since behavior was similar from running fuel from a bottle in the engine bay
2. I have the washers/seals to r&r all of the injectors. I also have an injector pressure tester so I could confirm those as well. Again, doesn't seem likely, but I don't know what else to try.
3. open to suggestions...
1. Replace fuel tank with new - not likely since behavior was similar from running fuel from a bottle in the engine bay
2. I have the washers/seals to r&r all of the injectors. I also have an injector pressure tester so I could confirm those as well. Again, doesn't seem likely, but I don't know what else to try.
3. open to suggestions...
You've checked the gauze screen at the Lift Pump inlet? I'd also be replacing all the crush washers at the fuel banjos, and I'd pull off the lift pump and check its operation.. here's a failed lift pump I had, a failed lift pump delivers similar results to air ingress issue.
- Thread starter
- #56
Yes, I rebuilt the lift pump - including a new gauze screen. All new banjo crush washers.
Well you've certainly covered off a lot.
Have you considered the Injector return line washers and line - remove inspect, and replace the special washers.. and replace the soft line coming down from the injector return line to the lift pump inlet. The special washers on the spill line are single use, I replace them anytime I disturb the injectors.
I'm sorry if you've already covered some of this.
Have you considered the Injector return line washers and line - remove inspect, and replace the special washers.. and replace the soft line coming down from the injector return line to the lift pump inlet. The special washers on the spill line are single use, I replace them anytime I disturb the injectors.
I'm sorry if you've already covered some of this.
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- Thread starter
- #58
That's pretty much covered in my option 2 from post 54. If I am going to r&r the washers, I would go ahead and pull the injectors and test torques/pressures...
I'm wondering whether I could pull a vacuum on the fuel line feeding the lift pump and see if it holds - that would mean those washers/return line are sealed. Does that make sense?
I have never tried pulling a vacuum on the lift pump inlet, seems plausible though and it would be super interesting if you did get see it dropping.
I agree, if you're going to pull the return line to replace the washers, it'd be well worth getting the injectors rebuilt (or in the least, tested)