3B compound turbo, 25psi boost!?!
- Thread starter gerg
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #22
I didn't build this for maximum boost. I built it according to my driving style, which my wife likens to an old man hehe.
I usually run from 1500 up to 2500-2800 rpm. I wanted more power to pull my travel trailer and pull some BC hills. I always hated being off boost when I shifted and I dont like reving my engine up high. This set up is great for towing.
I agree that 20 psi is not much to boast about. If and when I increase my boost into the mid 30s, and still run optimal efficiency on my compressor wheels, I might be tempted to boast. However that is not my style. I like this motor alot and think it has more potential than most people think. Its a tuff little bugger.
g
I usually run from 1500 up to 2500-2800 rpm. I wanted more power to pull my travel trailer and pull some BC hills. I always hated being off boost when I shifted and I dont like reving my engine up high. This set up is great for towing.
I agree that 20 psi is not much to boast about. If and when I increase my boost into the mid 30s, and still run optimal efficiency on my compressor wheels, I might be tempted to boast. However that is not my style. I like this motor alot and think it has more potential than most people think. Its a tuff little bugger.
g
Absolutely a tough little bugger.. but there seems to be a lot of cases of 3B precups popping out of the head when the boost goes over 9psi, which never ends well for the motor.
A compound set up like that would be brilliant on a 13B-T I figure, direct injection and no precups to worry about.
A compound set up like that would be brilliant on a 13B-T I figure, direct injection and no precups to worry about.
- Thread starter
- #24
I am concerned about the pre cups.
When I rebuilt the motor , except the head, all of my old pre cups were cracked and some were excessively cracked but still maintained their integrity.
I smoothed out the ports and transitions on my new pre cups, hoping the reduce some pumping losses, and ceramic coated them. I tried to be careful not to change the port size very much.
Personally I think alot of precup damage comes from high EGTS and rapid cooling. I thought that the ceramic coating would help decrease this. I will be redoing the head in the fall/ winter and will get a chance to inspect them.
g
When I rebuilt the motor , except the head, all of my old pre cups were cracked and some were excessively cracked but still maintained their integrity.
I smoothed out the ports and transitions on my new pre cups, hoping the reduce some pumping losses, and ceramic coated them. I tried to be careful not to change the port size very much.
Personally I think alot of precup damage comes from high EGTS and rapid cooling. I thought that the ceramic coating would help decrease this. I will be redoing the head in the fall/ winter and will get a chance to inspect them.
g
Dont let CATERPILLAR see that LOL! C15s are like that . They are designed to run HOT ie compressor intake air does get hot and yes heat soak. ON our, C15 on the second compressor the air get so hot that the paint is burnt. Some people say that is for more power. It is actually for better emmissions according to CAT. I would definately aftercool that motor if you want it to last. NICE SET UP!
- Thread starter
- #27
Yes an intercooler is definately in the works. I am leaning to a top mount with some kind of fan set up for long slow hills, but I have to finish my kitchen first or my wife will kill me! I like the top mount style for simplicity, less piping and it would also act as a louver to help cool the engine bay. That being said I really need to do a much better job of insulating the major heat sources (manifold/ turbine housings etc).
Does anyone know of a good way to monitor air temps pre, post turbo and post intercooler in real time? I haven't really found anything yet.
I am also curious as to why this is thread is now called dual turbo 3B? How is someone suppose to know exactly what its all about with such ambiguous wording!!?? Frankly I am alittle surprised it wasnt named something like: "More than one turbo set up" or "multiple air compressors for combustion on one engine", or "Superfly TNT", or "Love Removal Machine". Or even "3B compound turbo" would do, considering that is how it is described in the very first post.
Ahh alas I digress. Personally. I really like Maggie T. for a nick name. Considering she too was butt ugly yet strangely alluring.
MMMmmmm.... sweet... Maggie T
g
Does anyone know of a good way to monitor air temps pre, post turbo and post intercooler in real time? I haven't really found anything yet.
I am also curious as to why this is thread is now called dual turbo 3B? How is someone suppose to know exactly what its all about with such ambiguous wording!!?? Frankly I am alittle surprised it wasnt named something like: "More than one turbo set up" or "multiple air compressors for combustion on one engine", or "Superfly TNT", or "Love Removal Machine". Or even "3B compound turbo" would do, considering that is how it is described in the very first post.
Ahh alas I digress. Personally. I really like Maggie T. for a nick name. Considering she too was butt ugly yet strangely alluring.
MMMmmmm.... sweet... Maggie T
g
Alluring? ..............You twisted man!
G, you blow me away dude! Nice job. Can't wait to get thrown back in the seat when you take me for a ride in it.
dude, just a mercedes air research turbo. t3 replica and 1.5 turns on the fuel screw. nothing special, the turbo is old and bagged. check out my tread.
You can do them all with K type thermocouples and handheld or mounted readers.
Most EGT probes are K type and heldheld readers are cheap enough. I have a dual probe handheld one, I used it as an EGT reader for a while but not being backlit limits it's usefulness.
any powersmoke or cummins on any Ram ..
been boosting those numbers for 70,000kms??? my truck goes like stink. held it at 22psi for 4 hours at 2500rpm. might blow up? but sure is fun to drive!
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2002
- Threads
- 558
- Messages
- 8,123
- Location
- Kamloops, BC Canada
- Website
- www.shopraddcruisers.ca
I've seen guys running single turbos on 3Bs with around 25 lbs of boost... I don't see why the pre-cups would just jump out of their sockets with more boost. It would have to do with more heat, or cracked cups.
Some people seem to think that the air charge comes into the head through the pre-cups, and I don't know where they got that idea from 'cause it's just not true.
Boost, in and of itself is not the demon, it's heat. Heat comes from too much fuel and perhaps the heating of the air charge entering the engine which adds to the overall heat... Generally speaking, increased boost without increased fuel actually cools the engine down. Ie: we set up a 3B turbo the other day - 8 or 9 PSI and it ran at 1000F, go up to 12 PSI and that temp came down to 900F with the same fuel setting.
Keep the EGTs in line, and with good cooling and proper timing, the engine will probably stay together for a surprisingly long time.
~John
- Thread starter
- #37
I actually don't have a video of it yet and I have been kinda skimpy with the picks so I do apologize. Where is the best place to post a video anyhow? Currently I am in the middle of a kitchen renovation and promised my wife that "I would obsess about the kitchen as much as I obsess about my truck" hehe.
I am most likely going to take out the thru glass pack muffler and go with straight pipe as the engine noise is noticeably quieter with only the turbo whistle. The turbos are fairly loud all the time. It makes me feel like a big man.
g
I am most likely going to take out the thru glass pack muffler and go with straight pipe as the engine noise is noticeably quieter with only the turbo whistle. The turbos are fairly loud all the time. It makes me feel like a big man.
g
- Thread starter
- #38
I agree with your thoughts on more air and lower EGTs. I am not overly worried about the pre cups. I am kinda getting concerned about the pistons as right on the box for the rebuild kit it stated they were not for turbocharged applications. Erm I am toying with the idea of forged steel pistons but have not looked into it. Then EGTs for the pistons would be a mute point. I think that keeping the EGts lower with good inter-cooling and better flowing heads will help alot with the piston strength. Erm I hope?? gulp.
I did ceramic coat the pistons and over the last month ran them hotter than I would have liked (1200F) for about an hour straight multiple times, so if they were going to fail they would have already.
g
I did ceramic coat the pistons and over the last month ran them hotter than I would have liked (1200F) for about an hour straight multiple times, so if they were going to fail they would have already.
g
- Thread starter
- #39
I did retard the timing a tiny bit also to decrease some of the combustion pressure on the pistons. It was not exactly an exact science, but I figured it was a good idea. I would like to get it dyno tuned after my head is done. It sucked cus the EGTs did rise a bit. I have read that high boost Cummins guys and little jetta compounds retard timing to avoid cylinder ring scuffing.
Its funny cus I originally got the idea to do this after reading about a 1.6L IDI rabbit with a compound set up pushing over 40psi making 205 hp to the wheels. Now that is crazy.
g
Its funny cus I originally got the idea to do this after reading about a 1.6L IDI rabbit with a compound set up pushing over 40psi making 205 hp to the wheels. Now that is crazy.
g
Yes retarding the injection reduces your peak combustion pressures a lot. While it makes measured EGT"s higher, this is only because it's injecting later and burning later, your in cylinder max temps aren't any different.
Regarding pistons, Alfin are the ones for high cylinder pressures. They have a steel insert around the rings but are otherwise still an aluminium piston. I don't know if they're available for your application.
Regarding pistons, Alfin are the ones for high cylinder pressures. They have a steel insert around the rings but are otherwise still an aluminium piston. I don't know if they're available for your application.