2LTE boost issues (1 Viewer)

[Iamkeenas]

Been looking through a lot of forums and need a bit of advice on some issues on my 2LTE

I'm struggling at getting over 10psi of boost.
Bit of info on the truck.
1992 ln130 4.88diffs lockright lokka front
33sx12.5x15 2 inch suspension lift
Winch bar
Water to air intercooled dual pass radiator
With 20L reservoir in back of truck
EGT boost water temp oil pressure gauges
Boost guage set up between intake manifold and filter
pneumatic air bleed with bronze filter too.
New ct20 turbo cartage.
60mm exhaust with high flow muffler
Ln165 radiator and shroud
Viscous fluid replaced and 10blade 1kz fan installed
Truck just ticked over 300000kms

I dialed up the spil control valve 1/4 turn 3 times to see if it would boost more but on third time rpm get stuck at 4500rpm and had to dump the clutch into third to stop the revs. Dialed it back 1/8

Goal would be around 16psi
Injectors just been overhauled new nozzles set at 155bar

Bit of smoke when running start up sounds like mis fires below 1150rpm set idle on 1200. (Possible worn rings but runs mint next to no smoke once warm.)

Any help would be appreciated
Cheers

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Computer starts cutting fuel at over 10psi, and turns on check engine light at 14psi. You need something to trick the computer into seeing lower boost than what you have, so it only every sees 10psi maximum even though you're hitting 16psi+.

I use a little bleed valve just before boost sensor. This allows me to achieve up to 20psi actual pressure in manifold while boost sensor only sees 10psi.

 

[Iamkeenas]

Computer starts cutting fuel at over 10psi, and turns on check engine light at 14psi. You need something to trick the computer into seeing lower boost than what you have, so it only every sees 10psi maximum even though you're hitting 16psi+.

I use a little bleed valve just before boost sensor. This allows me to achieve up to 20psi actual pressure in manifold while boost sensor only sees 10psi.

Hey thanks for the reply!
I did pick up this bleeder from another member on the forums so will give this a crack and see how it goes

Amazon product ASIN B01GRNEBJ4
I did see in a previous forum that for tuning these the boost sensor/map sensor starts to cut fuel after 4volts is achieved any idea what pins the ecu are to get the reading or where to find a ecu pinout for manual ecu? 2LTE.
Would they been same colour as the map sensor wires?

 

[Peter P]

Would also be keen to know where to find the MAP sensor wire at the ECU / what colour etc. If you manage to figure it out, please post it up here!

Weird you're struggling with boost. I have the same truck, ran 10PSI stock, upped it to 12PSI with my boost controller then the other day I clamped the hose to the waste gate actuator to prevent it from opening at all and I was able to fit the 14.5PSI fuel cut without too much trouble. That was with a 1/8 turn of the spill valve increase over stock but it probably would have got there much the same without any increase, so what your are describing seems odd. I don't know enough to help but hopefully someone who does will chime in.

I get some misfiring on cold start ups too. Where is the idle adjustment on this engine? I've never thought to tweak that.

 

[Iamkeenas]

Ah figured out my boost problems. Needed to calibrate the boost controller getting about 14psi boost no check engine light.

The idle adjustment on mine is a lock nut with a flat head screwdriver to adjust inside the nut. Near the throttle cable butterfly valve area

I'm getting a wee bit of blowby but not a crazy amount and using a good amount of oil (4L in 400kms) out the rocket cover breather (vented via pipe to the ground) would this indicate bad rings? Need to do a compression test.
Truck runs a treat once warm but a very decent cloud of smoke during start up for about 5mins changing from grey to blue then goes away once driving.

Once I know the compression I'm thinking of ripping motor out and rebuilding it. I can't think of any other reason why it pushing out so much oil than bad rings?

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Would also be keen to know where to find the MAP sensor wire at the ECU / what colour etc. If you manage to figure it out, please post it up here!

Weird you're struggling with boost. I have the same truck, ran 10PSI stock, upped it to 12PSI with my boost controller then the other day I clamped the hose to the waste gate actuator to prevent it from opening at all and I was able to fit the 14.5PSI fuel cut without too much trouble. That was with a 1/8 turn of the spill valve increase over stock but it probably would have got there much the same without any increase, so what your are describing seems odd. I don't know enough to help but hopefully someone who does will chime in.

I get some misfiring on cold start ups too. Where is the idle adjustment on this engine? I've never thought to tweak that.

Don't adjust the idle. It's most likely air in your fuel supply (hint: replace soft fuel hoses/clamps and primer). But could also be worn glow system (voltage drop from poor wire connections or worn glow plugs). Finally, could be low compression which would be the worst thing. I've experienced all these at one time or another. Also, make sure you allow 7-8sec for glow period before starting. You can turn off your key after this for 1sec, then do another 7-8sec glow period too. If it starts better after the second, it's probably not air leak problem.

 

[Peter P]

Thanks for that Just to flesh things out a bit, I have a bit of a weird glow setup in my truck. When the head went years ago I opted for an aftermarket replacement which I regret to this day. The starting was mint prior to that but has never been 100% consistent since. Now, I have a glow timer which gives a 10 second glow, then pulses on and off for another 10 seconds after starting. It's also running 7V plugs to get some extra heat. Seems they fry after 2 or 3 years which is hardly surprising. Still, starting isn't perfect in cold weather. Now that I have turned the fuel up a bit, it's better but I've still had a bit of missing on occasion. Last I heard from my mechanic, the compression is near new in all cylinders. If I give the glow 10 seconds, then off for 5 or so, then another 10 and then the pulsing, than it's all good. So probably just some nonsense to do with the cheap cylinder head it has.