2H 12v suddenly won't start

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Aravind Dileepan

Aravind Dileepan

10 Year
Joined
Oct 13, 2015
Threads
39
Messages
199
Location
Cedar Park (Austin), TX
I have an FJ62 with a 2H, dual battery 12 volt system. The previous owner did the conversion at a reputable shop (Torfab in the Seattle area).

I've had no issues. Today, I ran differential breather extensions. Then it wouldn't start. Both batteries still have 12+ volts. I don't think I knocked anything when I ran the breather up into the engine bay.

The solenoid clicks when I turn the key to ignition, then clicks again when I let go.

What do I need to look at?

Thanks,

Ara D.
 
Check all battery connections, all grounds, and give them a clean with sandpaper while your there.

It could also be your starter solinoid, give the starter motor a few hits with a large spanner, if it starts after that then its the solinoid and your going to need to replace it. (dont rely on being able to bang it loose more then once or twice.)
 
My 2H would do this occasionally. It would jump off and run fine even starting on its own. I initially thought it might be the battery (I only ran one). Then later on it would fail to start again. Sometimes just trying the key again and again would get it to start. It turned out to be to solenoid.

I hope this helps.
 
I ended up pulling the batteries and testing them at a parts store. The guy said they were both low, low enough not to crank. I must have left the dome lights on longer than I thought while I was working on the breathers.

I have the batteries on a 750 milliampere Battery Tender Jr, so it's taking a while but I'm hoping that when I put them back in fully charged, I won't have any problems. I'll update later.
 
I'll second Gerg, I've left my LED interior lights on for days by mistake and had no problem starting up.
 
When I turn the key to ignition, I hear one click immediately, then another about a second later. When I let go of the key, I hear one click immediately then about a second later, I hear another one.

I understand that the EDIC is part of the more modern diesel engines but i can't figure out what it does, where it is, or what I should test on it.

But I will reinstall the batteries tonight or tomorrow and report back.
 
there is plenty EDIC info on the Diesel Section but basically controls your IP via main controller on the pass foot panel ( for LHD vehicles ) via EDIC motor and rod on the engine bay ..
 
How about installing a little buzzer to warn you that your lights are on when you remove the key?
Just saying.

Rudi
 
If your engine isn't turning over its not your EDIC. If your engine is turning over but not starting then It could quite possibly be the EDIC. The EDIC is a little box of peanuts and wires that tell an electric motor in the side of your engine to move a linkage that turns the fuel pump to overinject for starting for a few seconds then to regular setting for driving and off for shutdown. If you get someone to turn the key and start the truck you can observe it's movement. If your in a pinch and your truck turns over but does not start you can pop the ends of the arm off and run the truck as the fuel pump defaults to run. To turn the truck off you move the lever on the pump forward and you can manually cut the fuel. You should become familiar with this when it all functions so you know what to do when it doesn't. Trucks with EDICs eventually have EDIC issues.
 
Aravind Dileepan said:
When I turn the key to ignition, I hear one click immediately, then another about a second later. When I let go of the key, I hear one click immediately then about a second later, I hear another one.

I understand that the EDIC is part of the more modern diesel engines but i can't figure out what it does, where it is, or what I should test on it.

But I will reinstall the batteries tonight or tomorrow and report back.
Click to expand...

The edic hangs off the engine block and runs a push rod into the injection pump so when you key on the edic it will push the rod back and forth to enrich position once engine starts it go's into middle run mode once the key is turned off it go's full forward and stalls the engine then it go's back to start mode waiting to key on again.
 
1. I have the buzzer but it doesn't work unless the key is sitting just so in the ignition. And that only happens when I'm actually holding onto the key.

2. I charged up my Nationwide batteries, put them in, and still got nothing, just the solenoid clicks.

Adam at Torfab told me to whack the starter a couple of times and also to check if I didn't knock loose the igniter wire from the solenoid on the starter. I'll do all that this afternoon and report back.

I know nothing about starters and this one seems particularly difficult to access.

Ara D.
 
Is not .. from under the truck pass side it's pretty easy .. actually you can measure if get 12V from the battery and 12V from start .. I start thinking it's a ground issue ( very common failure in 60 with EDIC )
 
My problem was that I knocked loose the electrical connection coming off the starter. I must have knocked it when I ran my new diff breather forward from the rear.

Thanks to Tor and Adam and Torfab for talking me through and explaining it to me over the phone and by email.

Ara D.
 
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