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- #141
Got several new little things for the trailer for Christmas, but this was my favorite set of spices
2fpower's going to build a camping trailer
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- #143
Actually out of order, before I did that upgrade went to Colorado for a week. Base camped most the time near Mount Princeton but did take the trailer to mirror lake and over tin cup pass
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- #144
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As an Architect, I have one of those I haul along in the back of the car for site visits - really comes in handy!
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- #146
Really liked @StucknKS rear trailer door that has tools hanging on it, so looked over my trailer and the front door is the only place something like that would work.
Looking to put short shovel, hatchet, machete, hammer in that area. the issue is that currently that is just solid aluminum and I don't want any penetrations. First thought is to weld some aluminum brackets under there to attach a piece of 5/8 plywood, to then screw whatever attachment point to the board. Any other thoughts?
Second question is what will hold things? I am thinking velcro straps, as this will be basically vertical flat when the door is closed and traveling. The machete has a nice bag that can easily be attached to something. I was thinking of those military bags that you can hang things all over, anyone have an idea of if that would be a good option?
Example from an RV forum
Here is the door in the down position.
and up. To be clear, thinking about doing two boards, one on each side of the hydraulic arm.
Looking to put short shovel, hatchet, machete, hammer in that area. the issue is that currently that is just solid aluminum and I don't want any penetrations. First thought is to weld some aluminum brackets under there to attach a piece of 5/8 plywood, to then screw whatever attachment point to the board. Any other thoughts?
Second question is what will hold things? I am thinking velcro straps, as this will be basically vertical flat when the door is closed and traveling. The machete has a nice bag that can easily be attached to something. I was thinking of those military bags that you can hang things all over, anyone have an idea of if that would be a good option?
Example from an RV forum
Here is the door in the down position.
and up. To be clear, thinking about doing two boards, one on each side of the hydraulic arm.
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- Thread starter
- #149
Oh, it came with something like that... My issue was that it doubled the real estate needed for the battery, so I lost the place where i have tool bags with random things, so I am going to basically make a shelf above the battery (that doubles as a hold down) where I can keep those bags of tools. In the end it will be a much better use of that space.
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- #150
The new battery is great, but the charger I have can't keep up with the use of the trailer and the charger I have turns off when the battery is fully charged... so I end up unplugging it every time I remember to reset it.
Anyone have a charger they might recommend?
Or is there a different setup that when you have AC power, it moved power demand to an inverter? -- and you charge the battery as well?
Anyone have a charger they might recommend?
Or is there a different setup that when you have AC power, it moved power demand to an inverter? -- and you charge the battery as well?
RV's have a thing called a "converter" that supposedly will charge the battery when plugged in and supply AC to where ever it's needed. The units in our first and second campers would boil the batteries when plugged in and I disabled them. I mention this just in case your research takes you in that direction.
I hard wired a larger Battery Tender charger into both campers although I think that the solar was able to keep up with the small demands of the first camper w/o really ever needing the charger. I've fallen into the habit of just plugging in the second camper when it is parked at home. The charger is plugged into the camper's AC system so there is both AC and DC power in the camper when plugged in. I doubt that the charger supplies DC power for use, more like it just eventually replaces that power consumed from the battery.
I hard wired a larger Battery Tender charger into both campers although I think that the solar was able to keep up with the small demands of the first camper w/o really ever needing the charger. I've fallen into the habit of just plugging in the second camper when it is parked at home. The charger is plugged into the camper's AC system so there is both AC and DC power in the camper when plugged in. I doubt that the charger supplies DC power for use, more like it just eventually replaces that power consumed from the battery.
Newer inverters like victrons have intelligent and configurable battery chargers built in. That's the cats meow.
If you want something standalone, they also make standalone battery chargers, but you could also just get something like a noco genius.
Old school converters need to be thrown out. Old, inefficient, and can damage batteries like ntqsd said.
If you want something standalone, they also make standalone battery chargers, but you could also just get something like a noco genius.
Old school converters need to be thrown out. Old, inefficient, and can damage batteries like ntqsd said.
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- #153
Trailer is amazing…. We did a traveling week in Colorado, camping for a couple nights and moving to another destination. The issue I found is that I lose about a day and a half of solar while moving to the next destination and was not able to keep charge. So I’m thinking about mounting a panel on top of the trailer to charge while we’re not fully set up. Here’s what I’m thinking, however because of my trailer set up, I would need to move this before setting up a tent -- so I want this to be an easy removal. I found brackets on Amazon, but want them to be quick release, so looking for any ideas???
Amazon product ASIN B00KV30GIC
second question is since I have one on the roof, and I already store one inside trailer, I can have two panels, which is better for my power needs anyway. So, wiring now is the question. Parallel or series? I assume I would make a new weatherproof entry point behind this panel for it, then when camping set it up on the ground with the other one.
Amazon product ASIN B00KV30GIC
second question is since I have one on the roof, and I already store one inside trailer, I can have two panels, which is better for my power needs anyway. So, wiring now is the question. Parallel or series? I assume I would make a new weatherproof entry point behind this panel for it, then when camping set it up on the ground with the other one.
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What about something like this track: VersaTie Aluminum Track - Surface Mount, Contoured Edge (Series 1) - https://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/collections/van-conversion/products/versatie-aluminum-track-surface-mount-contoured-edge-series-1-210012
with four (or more) of these fittings: VersaTie Threaded Stud - M10 Thread - https://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/collections/l-track-versatie/products/versatie-threaded-stud-m10-thread-310009 ? Maybe replace the thumb-nuts with nylox and put the mount tabs under the nylox. Then a turn or so of each nut will allow you to slide the panel assembly just an inch-ish and then it will pop out of the tracks where it can be set aside.
FWIW just the minimal amount of debris on the panel in the pics above will have an astonishingly large impact on charging.
with four (or more) of these fittings: VersaTie Threaded Stud - M10 Thread - https://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/collections/l-track-versatie/products/versatie-threaded-stud-m10-thread-310009 ? Maybe replace the thumb-nuts with nylox and put the mount tabs under the nylox. Then a turn or so of each nut will allow you to slide the panel assembly just an inch-ish and then it will pop out of the tracks where it can be set aside.
FWIW just the minimal amount of debris on the panel in the pics above will have an astonishingly large impact on charging.
Do you have a 12V+ lead from your tow rig to the trailer to charge the trailer while underway?
That’s a solid idea. I’ve always considered doing that with various projects.
Not to be a wet blanket, but where that idea falls down is in the execution. To keep the Voltage Drop down over that distance will require cables that do not fit in a 7 pin connector. You'll need an Anderson SB connector. One source for those: Anderson Powerpole and SB Connectors | Powerwerx - https://powerwerx.com/anderson-power-powerpole-sb-connectors#?specs=307,310,311,314
Voltage Drop is important because the charging voltage at the battery being charged needs to be high enough for the charging to actually happen. I consider 3% voltage drop to be the maximum allowable. How to calculate a cable size that works: Three percent voltage drop - https://www.ancorproducts.com/Resources/Three-percent-voltage-drop
Voltage Drop is important because the charging voltage at the battery being charged needs to be high enough for the charging to actually happen. I consider 3% voltage drop to be the maximum allowable. How to calculate a cable size that works: Three percent voltage drop - https://www.ancorproducts.com/Resources/Three-percent-voltage-drop
I agree, run some welding cable to the rear of the rig with a breaker and isolator at the starting battery of the cruiser. Use an Anderson plug to connect it when you are towing. Use of the 7 pin towing circuit might not juice it up between short trips... when running all day on the highway it'll do fine.
A few more tips you probably already know:
*Keep your solar panel clean. Dirt, shadows, can really ding the performance of a panel.
*Angles are your friend. If you can get the sun hitting the panel right, the performance really jumps.
*I would look into a blanket or portable panel/unit that could plug right into the aforementioned Anderson plug. The ability to keep the trailer in the shade and the panel in the sun is a game changer. It is a win-win. You'll get maximum sunlight, and maximum cooling from the shade for your gadgets.
Hope you get it sorted, I love solar... it gets me giddy every time I milk the suns power.
A few more tips you probably already know:
*Keep your solar panel clean. Dirt, shadows, can really ding the performance of a panel.
*Angles are your friend. If you can get the sun hitting the panel right, the performance really jumps.
*I would look into a blanket or portable panel/unit that could plug right into the aforementioned Anderson plug. The ability to keep the trailer in the shade and the panel in the sun is a game changer. It is a win-win. You'll get maximum sunlight, and maximum cooling from the shade for your gadgets.
Hope you get it sorted, I love solar... it gets me giddy every time I milk the suns power.
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- #159
I do not…. Good point, will get 7 pin and brake controller added to my rig. Still want to add solar for the days my car is not running.
The largest wire that most 7 pin connectors can accept, on only some of the pins, is 10 ga. That's not big enough to do much even over a full day of driving. It's better than nothing, but not by a lot.