24v cummins, nv4500, dana 60/80 in 62 body chasis

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Oct 24, 2007
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geographical area known as canada, near ontario

what i want:

i am looking for an all around vehicle that i can go anywhere with, this means on road as well. i have a 2h in my cruiser already but on the highway with 5.29s auto and 35s its just an old tired dog...i want to be able to merge into highway traffic safely, get upto 100kpm in less then 2 minutes and be able to cruise at 120kpm. im not bashing the 2h, but its not cutting it for me anymore on road; off-road it was a beast, tons of low end grunt, it was unstoppable, reliable and i could depend on it to take me there and back.

what i got:

if you want to find out about my truck check out my rotm:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/383259-lost-cruiser-hotel-toyota-rotm.html
basically its a fj62, with 2h, 24volt and soa axle + a couple other goodies. ive been somewhat a toyota purist, my truck has been all toyota but thats getting thrown out the window.

i bought a 98 dodge ram 24v cummins nv4500 4x4 a couple weeks ago. the body was completely rotted but the motor sounded good and the transmission shifted nice.

What i am going to do:

the plan is to use the whole drive train (motor, trans, tcase, axles (dana60 front dana 80 rear(posilocked)&drive shafts). im also going to use the hydroboost and put it all in my cruiser. this is going to require to convert the truck back to 12volt. i may buy a parts truck for this. there is also a couple rust spots that need to be addressed.


hj62
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c352/sdcamyotte/thanksgiving%20wknd%202010/IMG_0536.jpg

rusty dodge
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c352/sdcamyotte/cummins%20oct%20nov%202012/IMG_1672_zps12f393d7.jpg

axles
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c352/sdcamyotte/cummins%20oct%20nov%202012/IMG_0698_zpse7030e1f.jpg

what is left of the ram
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c352/sdcamyotte/cummins%20oct%20nov%202012/IMG_0696_zps7193473c.jpg

2h out
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c352/sdcamyotte/cummins%20oct%20nov%202012/IMG_0695_zps8a2296a3.jpg

so close already.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c352/sdcamyotte/cummins%20oct%20nov%202012/IMG_0692_zps85e55f10.jpg
 

inkpot

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Are you going to be able to keep the inter cooler from the Ram? It is worth a whole lot of the power that the 6bt produces. John
 
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This thing is going to rip. Are you sticking with leaves or going to set up for those front coils?
 
Joined
Oct 24, 2007
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geographical area known as canada, near ontario
motor wise
i want to use all the cummins stuff, its going to stay an electrical truck. i also am going to get the inter cooler modified to fit in front of a 60series radiator. i would also like to keep the a/c. i also cut of the front frame cross(out the dodge) member to put into the cruiser under the cummins

axle wise
its probably going to be easier to go leaf spring, the frame widths are even the same and the dana 60 has the spring perches already in place(stock). i bet the coils would fit in real nice, but my leaf setup has great articulation already. one of my front leaves is bent so i will have to get some new ones(with bushings) with extra leaves to support the cummins + my 300lbs of winch bumper. i also new new shocks all around. the rear should be pretty straight forwards

stevo>>i read your thread over and over, great inspiration!
 

Tapage

Club 4X4 Panamá
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Nice swap .. I would love to see those front coils in ..
 
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Wilmington, NC
motor wise
i want to use all the cummins stuff, its going to stay an electrical truck. i also am going to get the inter cooler modified to fit in front of a 60series radiator. i would also like to keep the a/c. i also cut of the front frame cross(out the dodge) member to put into the cruiser under the cummins

axle wise
its probably going to be easier to go leaf spring, the frame widths are even the same and the dana 60 has the spring perches already in place(stock). i bet the coils would fit in real nice, but my leaf setup has great articulation already. one of my front leaves is bent so i will have to get some new ones(with bushings) with extra leaves to support the cummins + my 300lbs of winch bumper. i also new new shocks all around. the rear should be pretty straight forwards

stevo>>i read your thread over and over, great inspiration!
Keeping the stock dodge crossmember and leaf springs is a good way to go. It makes the swap easier.
You just need to modify the member a little bit.
The in order to use the perches on the dana 60 you need to outboard the springs a bit.

Also about the 24 valve you might want to install a fuel pressure gauge and keep a lift pump in the glove compartment.
If the lift pump goes it takes the VP44 with it.

What are your power goals for the engine?
Glad my thread was encouraging.
If you have any specific questions don't be afraid to ask.
 
Last edited:
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calgary
 
 
Keeping the stock dodge crossmember and leaf springs is a good way to go. It makes the swap easier.
You just need to modify the member a little bit.
The in order to use the perches on the dana 60 you need to outboard the springs a bit.

Also about the 24 valve you might want to install a fuel pressure gauge and keep a lift pump in the glove compartment.
If the lift pump goes it takes the VP44 with it.

What are your power goals for the engine?
Glad my thread was encouraging.
If you have any specific questions don't be afraid to ask.
How does the lift pump take out the injection pump, is there not the fuel filter between them? :hmm:
 
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Its one of the biggest issues with the motor is that when the lift pump fails, the pressure drops and damages the injection pump. They have one stock but its unreliable and when it fails there is no warning light or gauge. Then the inj. pump works harder and fries itself.

It took me a while to find the link:
http://www.dieselbombers.com/98-5-0...ection-pump-lift-pump-failures-explained.html

This describes what goes on, not exactly what you would want to have happen if you were somewhere far from a road.

Yes. The VP44's need a low pressure feed/inline pump or the inj. pump can crater pretty fast.

Your Cummins is a code 53 block so check it for cracks before you get too carried away.

Also might want to google KDP Cummins. (killer dowel pin) issue.

Anyways, all that stuff is boring and negative. This will be a cool sounding cruiser with more power than you can imagine. The 6BT is a sweet motor. With all that power you might want to gear a little higher, 5.29's + 35's and a diesel your hi way crusing speed will be pretty slow. But perhaps thats not a concern.

Good luck with the project, its going to be great. :popcorn:
 
Last edited:
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So heres the progress(pretty much got nothing done)

to start, the frame tabs were cut off


then we played around to see how the booster would line up. The booster bracket doesn’t sit flush against the fire wall so a plate of some type will be used


Then we dry fit the cummins, the a/c compressor had to come off. The 62 front factory gusset may have to be modified or replaced with flat bar gussets(x4)


The wastegate rubs the pass inner fender and the down pipe will most likely have to run on the outside of frame


After spending a too much time cleaning the dodge cross member , the angles on it are too wonky


These are the style of mounts on this cummins:


So it was concluded to fab up a cradle out of 2x6 rectangle tube that will incorporate the motor mounts. Something like this beautiful art work. the bushings wit sit more into the tabs...good idea, bad drawing


2h strapped and ready to go (Haiti??)


Then today the forklift decided to take a piss everywhere while loading the dodge frame on the trailer for scarp


Blown hydraulic line


So I fixed it, I am so fortunate to have the tools, equipment and space available, and to all my friends who are helping out.




 
Joined
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Edmonton,AB
i own a 92 dodge cummins and an 86 hj-60...and i can tell you that without a doubt,the differance in power between a 12-v (or a 24-v ) and a 2-h will blow your mind...

a note on the "53" block...just because you have an early 24-v ,dosn't neccesarily mean you have the dreaded 53...just that the chances are much higher.

supposedly the issues with the 53 casting series extend to around 100,000 blocks or so,and not all were dodges...issues extend to commercial rigs with the isb as well.the Brazilian "TUPY" blocks (the company that cast them) are the 53's...the mexican "TEKSID" blocks are not.the brazil blocks got cast at a rate of around 8 to 1 over the mex' blocks...so there's a possibility that yours,being early,is not a 53...a 53 block will have the 53 cast in and "tupy" (and a series of numbers)cast in as well.if you have a teksid block,your golden.

the 53 cast mark is just above the oil pan on either passenger or drivers side of the block (see below).note that having a 53 dosn't mean your doomed to a cracked block...the chances are just increased a bit...looks like an awesome build.
PSide12m.jpg
DSide7m.jpg
 
Last edited:
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geographical area known as canada, near ontario
thanks for the info...

heres what i got

motor:

53...


these are right beside the 53


on the front cover


ecm


top of transmission


pass side trans


pto plates on both sides of trans


the tcase, which is a 241d, and if you notice it has a long slip yoke at the back, i will need to change the transfer case to one that has and output flange, the slip yoke eliminator kit doesnt appear to be available to heavy duty versions of the np241d which are the one with pto. my pto plates are on the transmision so i dont know.
 
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you have a brazillian 53 block...i wouldn't worry about it to much.the blocks with issues show up with a crack just under the passenger side freeze plugs.see pick below for a bad leak.if yours has no sign of leaks by now,it likely never will,unless you up it's power output quite a bit.by now youvé googled "53 block crack"and suddenly had this hollow feeling...don't sweat it...run that sucker.

www.jbconversions.com for a fixed output kit for your 241D...

the 241-DHD is the one with the pto plate,which is same size plate as the one on the 4500,so it would be real obvious...
BlockCrack2.jpg
 

GLTHFJ60

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BADASS MAN!! I always love another Cummins swap! You're the first one I've seen that's brave enough to do it with an ISB.

Then we dry fit the cummins, the a/c compressor had to come off. The 62 front factory gusset may have to be modified or replaced with flat bar gussets(x4)
Can you be a bit more specific with how the AC compressor interfered with the front frame gusset? I'm going to run with the 6BT AC + Alternator setup, so I may run into the same interference.

Thanks and keep up the good work!!
 
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Can you be a bit more specific with how the AC compressor interfered with the front frame gusset? I'm going to run with the 6BT AC + Alternator setup, so I may run into the same interference.

Thanks and keep up the good work!!
I ran into the same issue when doing my swap.
The compressor is mounted low on the passenger side of the engine.
And because the 6BT is longer clearance on the frame gussets becomes an issue. (The 45 degree corner supports at the front of the frame right before the crossmember)

You should be OK with your 4BT as long as you don't have the motor pushed as far forward as possible.
 

GLTHFJ60

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I ran into the same issue when doing my swap.
The compressor is mounted low on the passenger side of the engine.
And because the 6BT is longer clearance on the frame gussets becomes an issue. (The 45 degree corner supports at the front of the frame right before the crossmember)

You should be OK with your 4BT as long as you don't have the motor pushed as far forward as possible.
Got it, thanks man. My motor location will be determined by the transmissions shifter, so well see how it works out
 
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