Build 2021 LC200 HE Build (Sven)

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DesmoPilot said:
Installed the @eimkeith correction bracket yesterday. Set it in the middle hole for now. Will move it to top hole once I install the Airbag Man bags I have had sitting around for months. In the middle position it is driving so much better. The rear waggle is drastically reduced. Such an inexpensive upgrade with a large benefit. Don't hesitate, do it!! :)

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What are you correcting with the bracket?

Do you have the part numbers for the rotors and pads?
 
Roscoes said:
What are you correcting with the bracket?

Do you have the part numbers for the rotors and pads?
Click to expand...
It corrects the angle of the rear trackbar. When the rear is lifted, even small amounts, the trackbar ends up at a non-optimal angle. The bar ideally should be very close to parallel to axle housing or ground. When it is at an angle, it causes the axle to shift horizontally during suspension cycle.
 
residualboulders said:
I haven't seen your build thread in a while. This is given me new ideas for mods I probably don't need but now kinda want. Might need to upgrade the brakes and get a correction bracket, maybe some lockers, ha ha
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Correction bracket is a must! It really helped.

Can never go wrong with lockers. :)
 
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I swapped out the standard Midland mic unit for their new upgrade. I haven’t used it yet, but will say that accessing the menus is much easier.
 
residualboulders said:
lol. I just bought the Gamiviti dash insert so I can mount my midland radio mic. I planned on mounting a magnetic mount of something where you have your phone mount. I hadn't heard about this new upgraded handheld. Sounds like I should look into it.
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New handheld is definitely worth looking into. Volume knob allows for the radio to automatically turn on if the unit is on the ignition gated accessory power. Otherwise, the knob is just nicer than the buttons. As mentioned, the menus are finally legible and understandable without the manual.

New handheld won’t work with older MXT275s with the USB-A style port. New hand piece is only compatible with the newer USB-C port units.
 
daneo said:
New handheld is definitely worth looking into. Volume knob allows for the radio to automatically turn on if the unit is on the ignition gated accessory power. Otherwise, the knob is just nicer than the buttons. As mentioned, the menus are finally legible and understandable without the manual.

New handheld won’t work with older MXT275s with the USB-A style port. New hand piece is only compatible with the newer USB-C port units.
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thanks. Mine is the USB-C type. Looks like Midland's part number for the upgraded mic is MXMC01.

How often do you find yourself making adjustments on the base unit? thinking about hiding mine in the cargo area or under the seat and installing a jack in a switch blank on the dash. Then I can remove the handheld when using my rig for daily duties, then plug it in for trips.
 
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residualboulders said:
thanks. Mine is the USB-C type. Looks like Midland's part number for the upgraded mic is MXMC01.

How often do you find yourself making adjustments on the base unit? thinking about hiding mine in the cargo area or under the seat and installing a jack in a switch blank on the dash. Then I can remove the handheld when using my rig for daily duties, then plug it in for trips.
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My base unit is under the speaker tray in the dash. I ran an CAT cable extension from the base unit to the side of the center console. Super easy to plug in the mic when needed. Although, I will admit, I just leave it plugged in all the time.
 
residualboulders said:
thanks. Mine is the USB-C type. Looks like Midland's part number for the upgraded mic is MXMC01.

How often do you find yourself making adjustments on the base unit? thinking about hiding mine in the cargo area or under the seat and installing a jack in a switch blank on the dash. Then I can remove the handheld when using my rig for daily duties, then plug it in for trips.
Click to expand...
Yep. Not much happening at base unit once everything is plugged in. Zip tied mine behind the dash panel by my knee and ran the cat v cable to an Air on Board rj45 connector.
 
Pulled out the GMRS radio and installed a Yaesu FTM-500. I was never happy with the GMRS performance and finally got around to getting HAM license.
The main unit is installed under driver's seat. The head unit is mounted to the Gamiviti dash plate via 67Designs arm. The FTM-500 has an integrated speaker in the head unit, so no need to mount an external speaker.

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Got tired of having to remove the rear inner fender liner to get access to the fuel tank breather filter. It gets dirty very quickly in that location.
Purchased 14' of -10 (5/8") fuel line and relocated the filter to the engine compartment. The line runs along the frame rail. No fuel orders after driving around for a month. And the filter is perfectly clean. This location will also make it quick and easy to clean it if it does get dirty.

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Made some suspension updates over the last few months. Removed the BP-51s and OME 2723 rear springs. It was also time to rebuild the Icon front UCAs and rear LCAs, so did the shock swap at the same time.

In November, I installed a custom set of Dobinsons MRRs and C59-547 rear springs. The Dobinsons were customer valved by Dobinsons USA to have a slightly more baseline dampening, which would enable each click of the adjusters to have a more noticeable impact. The Dobinsons were a huge increase in dampening control over the BP-51s.

A few months before buying the Dobinsons, I had Ben at Filthy build a set of Kings. I never installed them as them and they sat on the shelf until a couple of weeks ago. I pulled the Dobinsons and did the necessary fitment/clearance work to install the Kings. I will say that the front King fitment leaves a lot to be desired.

Ultimately, I am sticking with the Kings for the slightly softer road ride.

This weekend I am swapping the rear springs for the heavier Dobinsons C59-549s.

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DesmoPilot said:
Made some suspension updates over the last few months. Removed the BP-51s and OME 2723 rear springs. It was also time to rebuild the Icon front UCAs and rear LCAs, so did the shock swap at the same time.

In November, I installed a custom set of Dobinsons MRRs and C59-547 rear springs. The Dobinsons were customer valved by Dobinsons USA to have a slightly more baseline dampening, which would enable each click of the adjusters to have a more noticeable impact. The Dobinsons were a huge increase in dampening control over the BP-51s.

A few months before buying the Dobinsons, I had Ben at Filthy build a set of Kings. I never installed them as them and they sat on the shelf until a couple of weeks ago. I pulled the Dobinsons and did the necessary fitment/clearance work to install the Kings. I will say that the front King fitment leaves a lot to be desired.

Ultimately, I am sticking with the Kings for the slightly softer road ride.

This weekend I am swapping the rear springs for the heavier Dobinsons C59-549s.

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You just ran through the 3 leading aftermarket shock kits in a few months achieving a top ranking in “calibrated ass suspension feel” guru.

How much grinding did you end up doing to fit the fronts and how’s your clearance on the power steering side shock reservoir?
 
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Mad Goldilocks vibes 😂
 
Artie said:
You just ran through the 3 leading aftermarket shock kits in a few months achieving a top ranking in “calibrated ass suspension feel” guru.

How much grinding did you end up doing to fit the fronts and how’s your clearance on the power steering side shock reservoir?
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I ground the outer edge of the front bump stop smooth and I am not running the front bump stop. I have Durobumps in the rear bumpstop mount and they seem to be providing enough cushion to prevent metal to metal on the front stop. If I ever hit, then I will add a very thin bump there just to prevent metal to metal contact.

The power steering side is pretty frustrating if I am being honest. If King had simply measured correctly and made the L part of the reservoir mount about 5/8" shorter, it would be a straight bolt in. The engineer and perfectionist side of my brain becomes so frustrated when there is a simple solution, but a company chooses not to execute. I was very temped to cut the can part of the mount off, shorten the bracket and weld it back together. But, since I wanted to test the shocks first I did some pretty intensive bending of the mount to get the reservoir to clear the pump.....BUT, that then puts the reservoir very close to the inner fender pinch weld. All could be resolved with simply measuring correctly. Errrrr Ok, enough of my rant.

I also had to bend the reservoir hose fittings inward about 10-15 degrees. Essentially the 90 degree fitting became a 100-105 degree fitting. This allowed the hoses to clear the billet UCAs. With tubular arms, that is probably not necessary.
 
@DesmoPilot

You still happy with the 549's over the 547's with the kings?

I'm looking at the 547's to pair with mine. Looks like the same spring rate, just a little longer coil on the 549's
 
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