- Thread starter
- #21
Sorry, I never saw this message. No headliner drop needed for 2015.
yes, same part, but unfortunately you need to drop the headliner for 15+.
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2015 LX570 Prinsu Rack Install
- Thread starter radman
- Start date
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yes, same part, but unfortunately you need to drop the headliner for 15+.
He's lying. It's really his Rooftop Tent to go on the new rack.
Ignore me, I'm just jealous you got a "real" rack and I'm still using my DIY kit for now. How's the wind noise now that you've had it awhile? I'm seriously considering the Prinsu as well.- Thread starter
- #23
Zero wind noise with the sunroof cover/panel closed. It's been a while since I've gone without anything up top, but I don't recall any noticeable difference over stock after I lowered the fairing. One of my pics above shows where I drilled a single hole on each side to allow the fairing to drop an additional .75"
currently, the cargo box whistles like crap, but still down to zero with the cover/panel closed.
Agree with @radman Zero wind noise on the stock rack.
For those with 2016+ the headliner does need to come down. And to do so require taking off: window visor, map light for front and center, all hand rails, front A pillar trim, loosen front seat belt, loosen b pillar panels, loosen rear quarter trim panels, removal tail gate kick panel. The worse part is you have to either loosen the headliner curtain air bag or spend a lot of time getting the front nut to line up.
Also my kit did not come with nuts so I had to go to lowes and buy some. Used blue lock tight. Lots of silicon used. Do a water test before putting it all back. I have orded some rust bullet that I plan to use to seal it all up from water. This is by far PIA job that I would pay someone to do if I have to do again.
I did have to remove the front rail as I have the LED cut out and it is causing a lot of vibration. Hopefully the vibration will go away when I install the led bar this weekend.
Also my kit did not come with nuts so I had to go to lowes and buy some. Used blue lock tight. Lots of silicon used. Do a water test before putting it all back. I have orded some rust bullet that I plan to use to seal it all up from water. This is by far PIA job that I would pay someone to do if I have to do again.
I did have to remove the front rail as I have the LED cut out and it is causing a lot of vibration. Hopefully the vibration will go away when I install the led bar this weekend.
- Thread starter
- #26
lower your fairing to get rid of vibration.
How did you remove the front map light module? Can you do so by itself or does something need to be removed beforehand?
- Thread starter
- #28
I would recommend non-hardening form-a-gasket over rtv silicone. It's what Toyota uses on the stock bolts, not lock tight. I put it under the spacers, above the spacers, inside the spacers, on the bolt threads, Under the bolt head, then dump whatever you have left in the tube on top of the bolts
Also, none of the after market racks have a torque spec, but here are the 2 oem options. Pick your poison...
Permatex 80011 Form-A-Gasket #2 Sealant, 11 oz., Pack of 1
Amazon product ASIN B000HBM6NG
Sac Cerevisiae
Reid
I would recommend non-hardening form-a-gasket over rtv silicone. It's what Toyota uses on the stock bolts, not lock tight. I put it under the spacers, above the spacers, inside the spacers, on the bolt threads, Under the bolt head, then dump whatever you have left in the tube on top of the bolts
+1 on no silicone. It has caused issues with the 80s.
See Joey’s post here:
@NLXTACY (Witt’s End) even sells kits: 80 Series Roofrack Elimination HardwareI’m not proud of this but it was necessary for the time being.
This turbo truck lived in South Carolina for 22 years before I bought it drove it to the West Coast. Now I say this because rust is a crazy real issue for non-west coast trucks but I got lucky.
One of the things that eventually needs to be take care of is the roof rack residual rust. The truck is mostly perfect except for the rust on the OEM lame ass roof rack. So f’ing annoying. Everyone has to to deal with this at some level. Three of the legs were fine but passenger front shoes signs of rust under the paint. Boo. I’ll have to deal with that later.
For now I just need to deal with the existing holes where the factory rivnuts are in the roof. Each needs to be dealt with before the rain starts. I took the easy way out for the time being. I just used EXTRA wide button head screws with UV stable rubber washers. The ID of the washers need to go around the outside of the rivnuts because they sit proud of the roof. The flanged stainless bolts need to squeeze the rubber washer to create a positive seal to prevent water intrusion. It’s not super sexy but it absolutely solves the issue until I can take care of the rust at another time in the very distant future
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Please pray for then. I would never want to attempt this task again as its such a PIA. Lol
The acces bolt is in the sunglass holder. I think there are two covers then you have access to the bolts. The center map lights require a slide and pull down. Visor require removal of the cover at the ends and you have access to the screws. I don't have pics of map light but here are some to help those whose considering.
FYI: The center of the headliner surrounding the sunroof is held on by velcro.
Hope this helps.
