afgman786
SILVER Star
I lied, it's 24" max
Builds 2008 LX Live Camera Car and Overlanding Build. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter SharpeCat
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- Thread starter
- #42
Yeah, that's the one i was considering @afgman786 . How is it working out for you, can you get 1 tire at a time off the ground? I was thinking that the only time i will need to lift it is when i am treating undercarriage (drive on ramp) and when i am changing tires/brakes/rotors (jack), but i'm probably forgetting some situations.
I figured with bigger tires ahc sensor lift and high mode, that i'd be able to get everything done without needing to jack it. The few times i do need to jack it, i just need to be able to get 1 tire off the ground at a time.
I figured with bigger tires ahc sensor lift and high mode, that i'd be able to get everything done without needing to jack it. The few times i do need to jack it, i just need to be able to get 1 tire off the ground at a time.
afgman786
SILVER Star
Has been working well for me. Also if you jack from the axle for rear tires or LCA for front tires, you don't need as much travel to get the wheel off the ground compared to lifting at the frame and making that suspension droop before the tire lifts off. The times I did lift off the frame, I had to lift pretty high for a tire to finally leave the ground.
Your rig looks showroom new! Unbelievable score!Google Photo Album:
Bought her on Dec. 7th with 180k miles for $18k, and she now has about 182.5k. She has been serviced solely by two different Lexus Dealers her entire life, and has been taken in at ~5k intervals for the most part. No accidents, radiator replaced at 150k, AHC flushed recently, new tires and PPI came up clean.
I honestly don't even know where to begin, other than to say that i feel very lucky to be in this position where i get to write my own 200 Series Build Thread. With that said, i have not thought everything out and things may change around depending on new information. My goal here is to have a place to gather my thoughts and lay down my plans for her for this upcoming year, as well as have a place to seek advice. Thanks in advance to the many of you who will be helping me through this process, and Thank You to the many of you who have helped me get this far. I look forward to an exciting year with you all!
Names i have been considering:
Nimbus - Because she rides like a Cloud.
I'll keep working on it...
Planned Mods: My plan is to try and figure out when these items will be at the lowest price point for the year, and try and scoop them then. There are a few that i may have to wait til Black Friday for, as i saw some pretty good deals last month.
Funmoto EZ-Drain Valve and @bjowett's Oil Cap for Filter with EZ-Drain Valve - I plan on putting a lot of miles in and doing the oil changes myself, so this was an easy decision. Love that it is from a forum member as well!
AHC Sensor Lift - Because who can turn down a free 1.25 inches of lift for 10 mins of work?? Going to do this as soon as my Weathertech Pet Ramp gets here. My dog weighs 110 lbs and he can only get his front 2 paws onto the car even in low mode.
Tires/Wheels - About 33.5 to 34. I have my eyes set on Rock Warriors and going to hold out for a used pair. Undecided on tires it will come down to price/value. Hopefully i can score used tires/wheels combo.
Long-Range Fuel Tank - Probably the 40 gallon one, the stock range on this car is probably the lowest i've seen lol. I want to do long distance travel and sometimes camp for weeks at a time, so this was an easy decision.
Rear Bumper - Leaning heavily towards Dual Tire Carriers, would be nice to get custom ones fabricated that will mount the tires onto a sliding bracket for easy raising/lowering. I am a small person at 5'3 and 115lbs, and want to be able to mount and unmount them by myself. I realize this will take me down a custom bumper path and that it will not be cheap. In addition to the tire, i want to mount a MX Ultimate Bike Hauler to the rear bumper (or something similar). The idea is to have built-in hydraulic lifts do the heavy lifting for me when it comes to the dirt bike and tires.
Batteries - Still researching simple solutions for this. Right now i have been considering a dual-battery setup (simple one) under the hood + solar, for something permanent, and then supplementing it with a Goal Zero Yeti and battery expansion packs if needed (or something similar). I like the idea of having both a fixed system that provides some of the total power, and then having a detachable/portable system that i can take to my tent or picnic table and etc, and having the two work together and be both be charged by the alternator when the car is running.
Solar Panels
Brakes - I think i will keep rotors stock, and change to TRD pads.
Diff & Trans Breathers - Will raise these in case i want to try some water crossings.
Snorkel/Desert Air Intake - For plowing through the desert at high speeds, because why the heck not. Also for water crossings.
Drawer system - Level with 2nd row folded, lockable, and includes a sliding & tilting fridge mount. The biggest thing i am considering is a drawer system that allows Forks from a forklift to fit underneath, so that i can easily take it out and use the third row if needed. The idea is to be able to swap setups easily if needed and go from "camping mode" to "haul 7 mode" to "Dual JL W7s/Dual 1000 RMS JL Amps amps are in" mode and etc. The third one is on the nice to have but not needed list... i think. I have always loved a good subwoofer, and have owned both a 12W7 and 13.5W7 and fell in love with both. When i get home from a long trip, i want to be able to take out the drawers and put in the subs! Going to keep putting that extra battery capacity to use even when i am not overlanding!
Security Film - To help protect my camera and work equipment when i am not there.
GPS Tracker - I want a way to find the car after a long day of exploring on the dirt bike.
Front Bumper - With a winch and mounts for fishing poles, please. Extra lights would be nice too. I initially put this in the nice to have list, but when i realized how much weight will be going on the rear (2 tires + dirt bike), then it makes sense to add some to the front as well. I realize i shouldn't cheap out on protecting her, if i am going through all this lengths to build her up.
Roof Rack - for mounting light bars, maxxtraxs and etc. Am currently trying to figure out a way to incorporate solar panels into everything so that i don't block the sunlight from reaching panels, when i am using the rack for storage.
Sliders/Overland Armor - Not sure yet on who to go with.
Recovery Gear - Winch, maxxtraxs, hi lift and etc... would love some advice here.
Nice to Have mods, but won't fit budget:
Rear Locker - Does this baby even need one?
Gears - Been jumping back and forth on this one.
First picture in low, 2nd in high. More stock pictures on page 2. I will also make a google photo album and link it here after it is done uploading if you want to see more pictures and at higher resolutions, as well as be able to see everything in one place.
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- Thread starter
- #45
Thanks brother!Your rig looks showroom new! Unbelievable score!
This thought runs my through my head at least once a day. I keep thinking/expecting that any day now i'll discover why it was so cheap, but so far i'm just as puzzled as anybody else. She runs so smooth and quiet... not a sound (been 2500 miles already). I at least expected some creaking noise from the suspension when i run over a bump but nope... No lights on dash except for green ones and everything works on command.
I figured that instead of keeping myself up at night, that i'd just count it as another blessing and leave it at that. At that price i am ready for worst case scenario (engine replacement) and deal with whatever that comes, but so far it has been nothing but best case scenario for me and i don't want to jinx it.
- Thread starter
- #46
Did the AHC adjustment today and have a question, am i supposed to add more AHC fluid as part of the job? Also, the front left is sitting about .5 inches lower than front right, and i slid both sensors all the way down. Any guess as to why this is? I will double check and measure again tomorrow just to make sure.
Also, i noticed the difference in how she rides right away, especially when doing tight turns in high mode. I also did not get as much lift as i expected and i am wondering if that could be because i did not add any additional AHC fluid after the adjustment. I also plan on taking the footage and making a DIY video, so i want to make sure i do it right first. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
I will do more testing after i make sure that i did the adjustment properly first, so i can test it at the right height. Did anyone happen to get their measurements after AHC sensor adjustment, but before swapping out stock rims/tires?
Also, i noticed the difference in how she rides right away, especially when doing tight turns in high mode. I also did not get as much lift as i expected and i am wondering if that could be because i did not add any additional AHC fluid after the adjustment. I also plan on taking the footage and making a DIY video, so i want to make sure i do it right first. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
I will do more testing after i make sure that i did the adjustment properly first, so i can test it at the right height. Did anyone happen to get their measurements after AHC sensor adjustment, but before swapping out stock rims/tires?
here are my measurements:
LX570 AHC height modifications (lift it!)
just a thought, would it be easier to put a spring compressor on the front spring and cut through the spacer and gently spread it and slife in between the coil and top hat wather then undo the hydraulic line
forum.ih8mud.com
You do not need to add fluid. I had to adjust mine twice because like you it was not level side to side. What I found was the sensor was moving ever so slightly while tightening the nut on the sensor.
The difference in ride is normal as you are increasing the amount of fluid in the shock to raise the nose.
Hope that helps!
- Thread starter
- #48
here are my measurements:
LX570 AHC height modifications (lift it!)
just a thought, would it be easier to put a spring compressor on the front spring and cut through the spacer and gently spread it and slife in between the coil and top hat wather then undo the hydraulic line
You do not need to add fluid. I had to adjust mine twice because like you it was not level side to side. What I found was the sensor was moving ever so slightly while tightening the nut on the sensor.
The difference in ride is normal as you are increasing the amount of fluid in the shock to raise the nose.
Hope that helps!
That does help, thank you! From what i understand, the current AHC fluid level is set for reaching the highest point in high mode, so when you raise the highest point, does it not need a little more fluid to reach the difference in max height in high? I can see the normal and low mode raising to new height without additional fluid, but are you sure you are getting the max height in high as well, without additional fluid?
I can try to test this today by raising to high then checking fluid level, should it be at "min/low" when in high mode?
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You are correct in that the fluid is at its lowest level when the truck is in high, but the AHC sensor adjustment you just made isn’t putting the truck in high nor does it require additional fluid. You are just changing the “offset” of what the neutral height is.
- Thread starter
- #50
gotcha. I checked the measurements again and fluid just now. My driveway is slanted but I remember similar results last night on a level surface. Seems I need to do some tweaking. This is on stock tires and rims, although I do need to even out tire pressures. Will do another set of measurements later today after adjust tire pressures.
Can’t see the fluid even in low but I assume there is some in there since AHC works and since it was serviced not long ago.
I’ll measure again when not on a slant.
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Try putting a light on the hitch side of the reservoir to backlight it.
Seems high enough . . . i had/have some corner to corner offset. played around via techstream with the programmed offsets and also adjusted the external zero points (which you have done) to get it to set level. At times front left will still be a bit low, but it usually corrects after driving around a bit. I had front left low and rear right high, so adjusted the front left most, front right and rear left a bit less.
Functionally it doesn't really matter, IFS is full stroke regardless of the fender level.
Note that moving the zero points, in software or via the adjustment bolts is going to probably require a look at your alignment.
Functionally it doesn't really matter, IFS is full stroke regardless of the fender level.
Note that moving the zero points, in software or via the adjustment bolts is going to probably require a look at your alignment.
Can confirm, I needed an alignment.
- Thread starter
- #55
Here is what i have/did so far:
I did remember the bolt sliding as i tightened it, and i also remembered redoing it with that in mind. Hopefully when i take her in for an alignment they can figure out why left side sits lower.
The video is not complete but i uploaded what i have so far so you guys can see that the bolts are all the way up/down. I will also get some backlighting on the reservoir later and see if i can read the AHC fluid levels.
Also will use my Sony Action Cam next time instead of the GoPro Hero 4, as the sony has much better image stabilization.
I did remember the bolt sliding as i tightened it, and i also remembered redoing it with that in mind. Hopefully when i take her in for an alignment they can figure out why left side sits lower.
The video is not complete but i uploaded what i have so far so you guys can see that the bolts are all the way up/down. I will also get some backlighting on the reservoir later and see if i can read the AHC fluid levels.
Also will use my Sony Action Cam next time instead of the GoPro Hero 4, as the sony has much better image stabilization.
Rock warriors IMHO are by far the best choice for the 200. They are the only wheel with the ideal offset, which Icon and others do not have. Strong as heck, super light, great looking, and the rock ring takes a beating while protecting your valve stem. Yeah i never known anybody who bought them new, from what i heard Toyota will only sell them to you if you have a Rock warrior Tundra, and need a replacement wheel. Not sure if that's true, but pretty much this entire forum has bought them used from somebody.
Craiglist, Offerup, Ebay, or Mud classified are all good bets. They pop up often, might take a few months to find a deal, but worth the wait. Ebay was flooded with them recently, quite a few sets with Buy it Now prices of $1200 which is pretty fair. Right now, nothing i see, but just set alerts for saved searches:
Rock Warrior Wheels for sale | eBay
Get the best deals for Rock Warrior Wheels at eBay.com. We have a great online selection at the lowest prices with Fast & Free shipping on many items!
www.ebay.com
I've probably had about 3 sets over the years, they do come up on Craiglist sometimes for cheap, not often, but somethimes. Tundra guys dont want them at all. Just take you time and keep looking regularly. I sold a set on Mud last year myself, so Mud classified is a great place to look. Other thing to keep in mind is 9 times outta 10 its gonna be a set of 4 (not 5), so you'll either have to find a single, or buy a full 2nd set and sell the extras. This might be the way for you to go since you said you were considering doing 2 spares.
- Thread starter
- #57
Rock warriors IMHO are by far the best choice for the 200. They are the only wheel with the ideal offset, which Icon and others do not have. Strong as heck, super light, great looking, and the rock ring takes a beating while protecting your valve stem. Yeah i never known anybody who bought them new, from what i heard Toyota will only sell them to you if you have a Rock warrior Tundra, and need a replacement wheel. Not sure if that's true, but pretty much this entire forum has bought them used from somebody.
Craiglist, Offerup, Ebay, or Mud classified are all good bets. They pop up often, might take a few months to find a deal, but worth the wait. Ebay was flooded with them recently, quite a few sets with Buy it Now prices of $1200 which is pretty fair. Right now, nothing i see, but just set alerts for saved searches:
Rock Warrior Wheels for sale | eBay
Get the best deals for Rock Warrior Wheels at eBay.com. We have a great online selection at the lowest prices with Fast & Free shipping on many items!www.ebay.com
I've probably had about 3 sets over the years, they do come up on Craiglist sometimes for cheap, not often, but somethimes. Tundra guys dont want them at all. Just take you time and keep looking regularly. I sold a set on Mud last year myself, so Mud classified is a great place to look. Other thing to keep in mind is 9 times outta 10 its gonna be a set of 4 (not 5), so you'll either have to find a single, or buy a full 2nd set and sell the extras. This might be the way for you to go since you said you were considering doing 2 spares.
So you're telling me i should pay @danny23 's asking price?
I tried to get him to drop it about 300 bucks but no luck so far. That's like an entire month's pay for me after uncle sam gets his cut ><, so i've been taking my time considering it. I also wanted to go a little bigger on tires.
That's a fair price considering they come with tires.
- Thread starter
- #59
I did consider that, although i would rather just take the rims and try to go for a little bigger tires. I'll need at least 2 more weeks to save up so maybe if they are still around then. Thanks for the advice!
Yeah for basically brand new tires on them thats a very fair deal. I think my tires alone I paid around $1200 with balancing. Thats the same size and tire type I've had the past 25k miles and been very happy with them. It's the Toyota recommended size for those wheels (if that matters at all).
