2006 LC but no VVTi???

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On a less scientific note, I drove today a 2006 Lexus LX470 with a VVTi engine belonging to a friend of mine to compare how it feels against my non-VVTi 2006 Land Cruiser. Didn't notice a difference worth mentioning. My mechanic told me that high mileage post 2005 VVTi engines were more prone to problems compared to the regular 2UZ-FE.

As for the TB and WP replacement I have no record from the PO if it had EVER been done on my 123K miles LC so I think I better do it for peace of mind.


The VVTI starts to shine above 65mph and pulls much harder up 120mph. Also when you are pulling a 7% grade and get knocked down to 35mph and need to resume speed.
 
Ask him how many 4.7 they have seen with a broken t belt?
I called him back. He said no broken Toyota OEM T-belts.

With exception being, when something else interfered with belt, like pulleys etc. Then went into difference between Toyota OEM T-belt having layers compared to aftermarket that can be seen if sliced in half.

Heck we've seen Mickey Mouse take out a Belt (skip) in mud! We've also had some in mud say held on by a few threads.
 
This guy is in Colorado?

Really?

I would be very interested in talking with him.
Yes in CO.

Yes!

If you've something to add I'd love to hear it?
I'm sure all would benefit with your expertise.
 
As my GF said, as I punched it getting on the HWY in a VVT from 0MPH, wow like a spot car.

VVT's are peppy.
 
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I’ve driven and towed a boat with both 2003 non VVTi and 2007 VVTi and there’s a huge difference while going uphill. VVTi is definitely quicker at acceleration especially while not towing.
 
I suppose the extra power of the vvti comes handy when the truck is used for towing, and is loaded with heavy metal extras like steel bumpers, skid plates, under-body protection armor, a winch, bigger&heavier tires, etc... My rig has none of that, I drive it gently, and the less peppier engine has saved me a lot of coin as I used to pick a fair amount of speed tickets in my younger days;)
 
I called him back. He said no broken Toyota OEM T-belts.

With exception being, when something else interfered with belt, like pulleys etc. Then went into difference between Toyota OEM T-belt having layers compared to aftermarket that can be seen if sliced in half.

When I say this I get flamed.
I've been saying forever that timing belts and serpentine belts do not break on their own, something else has to fail. Water pump seizes. Belt tensioner breaks. Idler pulley falls off...
 
When I say this I get flamed.
I've been saying forever that timing belts and serpentine belts do not break on their own, something else has to fail. Water pump seizes. Belt tensioner breaks. Idler pulley falls off...

I agree and this is exactly why you want to do your TB service yourself or have a detailed conversation with who ever does it. Close inspection of the above parts that could cause pre-failure is much more important than servicing the belt itself IMO.
 
I suppose the extra power of the vvti comes handy when the truck is used for towing, and is loaded with heavy metal extras like steel bumpers, skid plates, under-body protection armor, a winch, bigger&heavier tires, etc... My rig has none of that, I drive it gently, and the less peppier engine has saved me a lot of coin as I used to pick a fair amount of speed tickets in my younger days;)
I drove a 2001LC for 14 years, which has the 3spd w/OD transmission. One time towing a trailer loaded with a Lexus IS300, pulling over Vail Pass 9K to 12K feet ASL. I got stuck behind a heavy 18 wheeler moving slow. Slowing and losing optium power band I could not get up to passing speed. That was only time I wished I'd had more power.
When I say this I get flamed.
I've been saying forever that timing belts and serpentine belts do not break on their own, something else has to fail. Water pump seizes. Belt tensioner breaks. Idler pulley falls off...

I agree and this is exactly why you want to do your TB service yourself or have a detailed conversation with who ever does it. Close inspection of the above parts that could cause pre-failure is much more important than servicing the belt itself IMO.
We replace the belt while in there, not the other way around.

The issue comes or flaming is when some says you don't need done at 90K miles or 7 year. 7 year may be to early if coolant system is keep very health. Anytime anything other than 100% OEM coolant or distilled water mixed with 100% red is add, systems becomes questionable. For this reason I never recommend anything else be added.
 
I agree 100% that every thing should be done when doing the timing belt.
I also know that the engine will not explode because you didnt replace the timing belt at 90k.

Coolant is coolant, Toyota red is no different than Prestone yellow, I used to sell engine coolant, it is all the same as long as you do not use the old green stuff or the green stuff meant for classic cars and trucks.
You can turn yellow Zerex to red by adding a dye, just like they do at the coolant manufacturer.
I agree with the distilled water, that's why I always recommend buying your coolant premixed, yes it costs more but it is idiot proof, just add and go.
You can check the condition of your coolant by checking the ph balance of it. This should be done annually. But no one does it. Including me, so I just do a drain and fill every 2yrs.
Flushed out the red, filled with Prestone Universal, done. Total cost for 3gal of coolant was $24. Cheap enough to drain out every few years.
I flushed my coolant when I bought my truck in 2016, it is now 2018, but this time no flush is needed, because all of the red was flushed out, so this summer....drain and fill. Done.
Rinse the outside of your radiator every spring to get all of the road salt off of it and it'll last a hell of a long time. Corrosion from the inside (worn out coolant) or from the outside (road salt) is what causes radiator leaks 90% of the time.
 
You can check the condition of your coolant by checking the ph balance of it. This should be done annually. But no one does it. Including me, so I just do a drain and fill every 2yrs.

A very timely and wise advice! Thanks Spike555:)

PS. Can someone help a computer idiot how to do the "quote" thing?
 
You can check the condition of your coolant by checking the ph balance of it. This should be done annually. But no one does it. Including me, so I just do a drain and fill every 2yrs.

A very timely and wise advice! Thanks Spike555:)

PS. Can someone help a computer idiot how to do the "quote" thing?

Click on "Reply" below the post you want to quote should do it.
 
Click on "Reply" below the post you want to quote should do it.

Here I go.
 
...but it didn't work, so idiot must be a compliment for me:bang:
 
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