Build 2002 HZJ76 Build

[bj70bc]

Love it, If youre ever farther north, touch base, i have a cabin you can use

 

[Rigster]

Love it, If youre ever farther north, touch base, i have a cabin you can use

Wow, that is really generous and thoughtful of you. I do not usually stray too far from home, but I would like to explore more if I can manage to retire somewhat early. I am working on this, but gosh kids are expensive!! lol

 

[Rigster]

Wow, tis been a week or two since I have posted much on my build thread!!

I FINALLY have had some time to do some preventative maintenance on my cruiser. I have been wanting to check my BEB's for a while, and I had some time today to take a closer look. After spending a couple of hours on the oil pan removal, I was a little concerned with the fact that I found not one but TWO bolts on the pan that were not even put in all the way!!

I also found a few that were not tightened down at all... like they finger tightened them but didn't secure them with a wrench. And one that was way too tight. Sheesh! I would assume with the work ethic of Japanese culture that they would have paid much more attention to detail.

I proceeded to remove the oil pan after cutting loose the FIPG on there and gently prying the pan off. I removed cylinder 2 and 5 since the engine stopped conveniently in the position to access those 2 easily. I just wanted to find out what bearings were # matched to this crankshaft so I could order the right ones, along with a new set of connecting rod studs.

All said, with ~286,000kms and 40,000+ kms turbo'd, the bearings were in surprisingly good shape. Though I use full synthetic oil, so that helps.

I suspect these were replaced at some point due to the oil pan being removed once before from what I can tell. The wear indicates the same, though I have yet to remove and inspect the rest.

BUT, I now have the number I need to order the replacements so the joy can continue!!

I am also looking at options for a water to air intercooling system to get rid of the current air to air system I have already installed as it interferes with keeping the AC cold enough in really hot weather, and ultimately the cooling of the engine when I want to pull my trailer up long hills... stay tuned!!

 

[Rigster]

After work today I had an hour to start cleaning things up while I wait for the parts to show. I found that a really quick way to clean the old fipg from the oil pan was a stiff nylon wheel:

I will NOT use that on the bottom of the block. It flings FIPG bits everywhere... I will be old fashioned scraping the engine and allowing gravity to do it's thing.

 

[Rigster]

Gosh, I finally received the bearings and connecting rod bolts today.

This is only the second time I have used Amayama for parts and both times have been an unpleasant experience. The only reason I used them as they were the only ones that showed both items in stock. In stock and it takes 6 weeks to get to my door? Partsouq would have them here for me in a few days. Unfortunately Partsouq did not have the bolts in stock and I figured I would do the order from one place that had everything and save on shipping.

At worst, I should have some time this coming weekend to get this job finished. Hopefully... family comes first.

 

[JDM Journeys]

Getting the hard parts is maybe the hard part?
Time to undo the wing nuts that hold the oil pan on.

 

[sleepydad69]

Gosh, I finally received the bearings and connecting rod bolts today.

This is only the second time I have used Amayama for parts and both times have been an unpleasant experience. The only reason I used them as they were the only ones that showed both items in stock. In stock and it takes 6 weeks to get to my door? Partsouq would have them here for me in a few days. Unfortunately Partsouq did not have the bolts in stock and I figured I would do the order from one place that had everything and save on shipping.


At worst, I should have some time this coming weekend to get this job finished. Hopefully... family comes first.

Yea I have been working on my HDJ101 and Partsouq has been really getting terrible about availability. I use amayama quite a bit now days because they are the only real game in town who has the stuff I need. Ordered some stuff May 28 and just got it last week. The pipeline can be agonizingly slow.

 

[mjw4]

Interesting, I have had the opposite experience with Amayama, it's my main source for parts. Hasn't been too bad with wait times. And I agree that Amayama usually has the better availability. I use Partsouq and Yoshi Parts occasionally too, but have yet to try Megazip. Radd Cruisers out of Kamloops usually has lots in stock as well.

Other then them sourcing their parts from their respective warehouses, I wonder if living in a larger metropolitan area gives any substantial difference in shipping times.

 

[Rigster]

Interesting, I have had the opposite experience with Amayama, it's my main source for parts. Hasn't been too bad with wait times. And I agree that Amayama usually has the better availability. I use Partsouq and Yoshi Parts occasionally too, but have yet to try Megazip. Radd Cruisers out of Kamloops usually has lots in stock as well.

Other then them sourcing their parts from their respective warehouses, I wonder if living in a larger metropolitan area gives any substantial difference in shipping times.

It is usually an extra day to get to me from when I lived in the lower mainland 15yrs ago. But 6 weeks when it showed in stock?

I have checked out RADD Cruisers in the past, and even corresponded with John over some parts. His pricing was not great, and the one time I did communicate with him it did not go very smoothly. Maybe I caught him on a bad day. We all have those now and again. I will check out his site again sometime. Thanks for your feedback!

 

[Rigster]

I spent some quality time with my youngest padawan learner this past weekend, and one of the things that was accomplished was installing the BEB's and buttoning up the bottom end. Nice to have that completed after waiting the 6 weeks for the parts to show. My apologies, but a job like this one is not camera friendly. Most of the time was spend keeping everything clean during reassembly, working with the assembly lube, etc. Though I will post the satisfying moment I was able to refill the oil...

Next up on the to do list is removing the PDI air to air intercooling system and getting things ready to try a water to air style instead.

 

[bj70bc]

I spent some quality time with my youngest padawan learner this past weekend, and one of the things that was accomplished was installing the BEB's and buttoning up the bottom end. Nice to have that completed after waiting the 6 weeks for the parts to show. My apologies, but a job like this one is not camera friendly. Most of the time was spend keeping everything clean during reassembly, working with the assembly lube, etc. Though I will post the satisfying moment I was able to refill the oil...
View attachment 4180006
Next up on the to do list is removing the PDI air to air intercooling system and getting things ready to try a water to air style instead.

Really... I'm thinking about going the other way, why are you thinking of doing this?
Ill tell you the bad of the water to air if you want to know.

 

[AirheadNut]

Really... I'm thinking about going the other way, why are you thinking of doing this?
Ill tell you the bad of the water to air if you want to know.

I’d be curious to know, in the process of installing a W2A system in the Prado.

 

[bj70bc]

I’d be curious to know, in the process of installing a W2A system in the Prado.

Water to air works great... while the water is cold,
I used a water to air to take advantage of the heat removing capacity of water vs air and the fact that during slow speed, high throttle situations 4x4ing you dont need the air flow as much to remove heat from the intake charge, it works great like this and around town. But these situations arent really when you need the most charge air cooling, its when under sustained highway driving when you need the cooling the most, and the water gets heat soaked under these conditions.
I have a 2 gallon reservoir, 12x12x2" heat exchanger (biggest you can reasonably fit in the front of a narrow nose 70), a cross flow intercooler core, and cobra pump.
The system works well until it gets overcome by prolonged boost heat, then it takes quite a while to lose that heat from the water.
I think a air to air would work better under the prolonged use case scenario when its really needed the most, And would shed heat quicker even when heat soaked as the capacity of air to cool air is at a more even keel compared to water. The very thing that air to water has over air to air is also it achillies heel, the heat carrying capacity of water (coolant).
The only way i can see of overcoming this is to install another "rad" under the vehicle somewhere and probably a bigger (or just another) pump, in which case this is getting to be a rather complicated system....

 

[bj70bc]

I’d be curious to know, in the process of installing a W2A system in the Prado.

Got a link to your pics of this setup

 

[Gun Runner 5]

Water to air works great... while the water is cold,
I used a water to air to take advantage of the heat removing capacity of water vs air and the fact that during slow speed, high throttle situations 4x4ing you dont need the air flow as much to remove heat from the intake charge, it works great like this and around town. But these situations arent really when you need the most charge air cooling, its when under sustained highway driving when you need the cooling the most, and the water gets heat soaked under these conditions.
I have a 2 gallon reservoir, 12x12x2" heat exchanger (biggest you can reasonably fit in the front of a narrow nose 70), a cross flow intercooler core, and cobra pump.
The system works well until it gets overcome by prolonged boost heat, then it takes quite a while to lose that heat from the water.
I think a air to air would work better under the prolonged use case scenario when its really needed the most, And would shed heat quicker even when heat soaked as the capacity of air to cool air is at a more even keel compared to water. The very thing that air to water has over air to air is also it achillies heel, the heat carrying capacity of water (coolant).
The only way i can see of overcoming this is to install another "rad" under the vehicle somewhere and probably a bigger (or just another) pump, in which case this is getting to be a rather complicated system....

Perhaps a solution to the heat soaking.
This was an early prototype to test “proof of concept” on my 77 Series. By adding a standby reservoir, the overall water capacity in the Intercooler was nearly doubled.

 

[Rigster]

Really... I'm thinking about going the other way, why are you thinking of doing this?
Ill tell you the bad of the water to air if you want to know.

The reasoning is in my thread, but that could take a while to find in the 25+ pages in there... so I will do my best to succinctly summarize here.

Anywhere we go in this province, and could be said anywhere in western NA, we deal with hills. By itself, the air to air and turbo combo makes this cruiser perfect. The problem is, I want to tow my little expedition trailer. The hills are a nemesis with the air to air heat exchanger being out front, then the AC condenser, then finally the rad to cool the engine.

I even put in a PWR radiator as they cool more efficiently. I can say that this is definitely true from my experience with it. However there is a lot of air being blocked, and it is twice warmed before it hits the rad. I even changed out the fan clutch fluid (with 20,000 CST) and made it grab sooner.

My theory is this:

With the PWR radiator, I am thinking of running the coolant not from a separate closed system, but rather from the engine system. Without the air being blocked in front with any type of intercooler radiator, it is my hope that the PWR radiator can keep up. I am also planning on raising the hinge side of the hood up an inch to allow better air flow and avoid heat soak.

If that does not fix the issue, or at least make it more bearable that I am not pushing the temps too close to overheating, then I can look at a separate closed system, putting the w2a radiator somewhere that will not be blocking the radiator for the engine. I will cross that bridge if I need to.

If all that fails to accomplish what I want, then I will have to save up my pennies and look at finding a direct injection motor I can drop in

 

[bj70bc]

I would definitely not run the engine coolant through the intercooler or you are totally defeating the purpose and it will be an interheater running at 180f+ which most of time will be heating the air charge. There are charts to see the heat of charge air compression in psi.
My system never gets up to 180 deg in the water, but it gets close prob 160 +, as it is, and im not happy with it...
You will need a res, and separate rad for sure imho...
Better to upgrade your fan clutch to 30k oil and address the engine heat somehow.
If your turbo isnt pushing past 12psi you dont really even need a intercooler, look at the heat of compression at or below 12psi (170f + at 12 psi)
at 18 psi your at 210f +, so using engine coolant is pointless. (based on 70f ambient)
It would be somewhat better to use an air to air on top of the engine in your situation I would think, gets it out of the front of the engine rad... but this at slow speeds can be an interheater to some degree too.

Btw I'm running at 18+ psi

 

[Rigster]

I would definitely not run the engine coolant through the intercooler or you are totally defeating the purpose and it will be an interheater running at 180f+ which most of time will be heating the air charge. There are charts to see the heat of charge air compression in psi.
My system never gets up to 180 deg in the water, but it gets close prob 160 +, as it is, and im not happy with it...
You will need a res, and separate rad for sure imho...
Better to upgrade your fan clutch to 30k oil and address the engine heat somehow.
If your turbo isnt pushing past 12psi you dont really even need a intercooler, look at the heat of compression at or below 12psi (170f + at 12 psi)
at 18 psi your at 210f +, so using engine coolant is pointless. (based on 70f ambient)
It would be somewhat better to use an air to air on top of the engine in your situation I would think, gets it out of the front of the engine rad... but this at slow speeds can be an interheater to some degree too.

Btw I'm running at 18+ psi

Thanks for the feedback. I will be drawing from the cold side of the radiator into the W2A, and coming back into the radiator to the in/hot side.

It comes down to whether or not the PWR radiator can keep up. Time and testing will tell. If it doesn't, it gives me another challenge to overcome. Part of the fun?

 

[AirheadNut]

Got a link to your pics of this setup

Most of it is on this page: Build - Another Prado in Montana - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/another-prado-in-montana.1026093/page-43
Still haven't totally finished it, going to use a Bosch Cobra pump for the circulation. The intercooler core isn't ideal by any means, but it was what I could fit in the space available without building a fully custom core. Fortunately the 2.0 TDI shouldn't generate nearly as much heat as a 3B, my turbo is supposed to be very efficient at creating boost and my intake tract is oversized and high flow compared to a stock TDI. Boost should be around 10-15psi under normal cruising conditions, but will max out around 25-30psi under full throttle depending on tune.