2001 LX470 oil leaks

[3nobt]

I previously cleaned and degreased the engine to pinpoint the source of an oil leak. Just getting around to pinpoint and looks like I have a few leaks.

• Looks like a leak where the oil filter attaches
• Looks wet above the belt tensioner
• The pan looks like it may have a leaky seal
• I can see clear drip forming from somewhere else pictured.

Are these fairly common?
Anyone have recommendation on what to attack first?

 

[excessive]

its most like the valve covers that are leaking, an extremely common issue.

 

[MongooseGA]

Yup, VCs should be on your list for sure.

Then again, how do you know there's oil in it if it's not leaking?

 

[GremlinMobile]

I know the consensus of the vocal members on this forum is to do all the maintenance on these vehicles to make them last 1,000,000 miles, which includes the valve covers and stuff, but there is something to be said for just letting an occasional drip drip..

I did my valve cover gaskets - broke one bolt on one side. Took the car in to the shop to let them do the other side. They ended up shearing 3 bolts and charged me 1150 to helicoil them and put everything back together. Considering the tiny amount of oil that seeped through that gasket, and likely the tiny amount of oil that you're seeing - maybe it's wise to just let it go, especially since it's the kind of oil leak that doesn't threaten becoming a catastrophic leak unannounced. Considering my venture to change my valve cover gaskets alone cost me 1200 all in, that's almost 20% of what I paid for the car..

 

[kevgentile]

I know the consensus of the vocal members on this forum is to do all the maintenance on these vehicles to make them last 1,000,000 miles, which includes the valve covers and stuff, but there is something to be said for just letting an occasional drip drip..

I did my valve cover gaskets - broke one bolt on one side. Took the car in to the shop to let them do the other side. They ended up shearing 3 bolts and charged me 1150 to helicoil them and put everything back together. Considering the tiny amount of oil that seeped through that gasket, and likely the tiny amount of oil that you're seeing - maybe it's wise to just let it go, especially since it's the kind of oil leak that doesn't threaten becoming a catastrophic leak unannounced. Considering my venture to change my valve cover gaskets alone cost me 1200 all in, that's almost 20% of what I paid for the car..

Sorry, but very rarely would I advise to "just let it be". Only in temporary situations like waiting in between services or saving the funds to commit to a repair. I get it, life happens and not everyone has an open check book so planning and budgeting additional repairs can be required.

Rarely do leaks stay as-is, most worsen over time as the seals continue to degrade. Also, as one leak is left another soon arises just creating more problems and time spent diag'ing after an initial repair was finally made.

Our shop specializes on German marques and they are notorious for expensive oil leaks. There are a few customers that don't want to spend the money so let it be, only to the point of no return. A $1200 repair becomes 3-4 times that by just letting it be, and often times they end up walking away from the vehicle. I know a Toyota wouldn't fall into that scenario. But it would suck to have a minor leaky cam cover decide to start seeping oil onto the manifold to the point it smokes just enough to be annoying. Only to have a rack or fuel pump fail soon after. Now you have a much more expensive bill.

Point is, do them when you find them, or as soon as possible.

 

[2001LC]

I previously cleaned and degreased the engine to pinpoint the source of an oil leak. Just getting around to pinpoint and looks like I have a few leaks.

• Looks like a leak where the oil filter attaches
• Looks wet above the belt tensioner
• The pan looks like it may have a leaky seal
• I can see clear drip forming from somewhere else pictured.

Are these fairly common?
Anyone have recommendation on what to attack first?

View attachment 3627385

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View attachment 3627391

View attachment 3627393

I'd do a better job of degreasing and watch closer. As other said, head cover leak is common. So I'd retorque head cover to 54 INCH-lbf and then re-clean all oil/gunky area.

The BK2 lower front (RH side) engine block, may be from above i.e. head cover, cam seal (if every replaced), oil pump O-ring. But very common area to be oily, when #1 timing belt pulley bolt threads not sealed.

BK 1 lower front area. You may have oil cooler bracket to oil pump leak from figure 8 O-ring and or oil cooler O-ring. The only time I see this/these leak. Is if bracket has been removed. Such as during a "by-the-book" Rack & pinion R&R. These can be very bad leaks, and need correcting. Cleaning and watching the joint, is very revealing.
I don't have a hand picture of oil bracket to oil pump joint, from front (which is easy to see). But here's one from rear of bracket.

 

[Import Driver]

I know the consensus of the vocal members on this forum is to do all the maintenance on these vehicles to make them last 1,000,000 miles, which includes the valve covers and stuff, but there is something to be said for just letting an occasional drip drip..

I did my valve cover gaskets - broke one bolt on one side. Took the car in to the shop to let them do the other side. They ended up shearing 3 bolts and charged me 1150 to helicoil them and put everything back together. Considering the tiny amount of oil that seeped through that gasket, and likely the tiny amount of oil that you're seeing - maybe it's wise to just let it go, especially since it's the kind of oil leak that doesn't threaten becoming a catastrophic leak unannounced. Considering my venture to change my valve cover gaskets alone cost me 1200 all in, that's almost 20% of what I paid for the car..

I'm with stupid.

But seriously. This is logical. He's not saying never fix your cruiser. In the situation GremlinMobile described there is a 99% chance I'm breaking bolts on mine, so I would wait until I pull the engine some day. But to each their own.

 

[MongooseGA]

I know the consensus of the vocal members on this forum is to do all the maintenance on these vehicles to make them last 1,000,000 miles, which includes the valve covers and stuff, but there is something to be said for just letting an occasional drip drip..

I did my valve cover gaskets - broke one bolt on one side. Took the car in to the shop to let them do the other side. They ended up shearing 3 bolts and charged me 1150 to helicoil them and put everything back together. Considering the tiny amount of oil that seeped through that gasket, and likely the tiny amount of oil that you're seeing - maybe it's wise to just let it go, especially since it's the kind of oil leak that doesn't threaten becoming a catastrophic leak unannounced. Considering my venture to change my valve cover gaskets alone cost me 1200 all in, that's almost 20% of what I paid for the car..

I agree with this to a point, and IMO it's vehicle specific.

My 100 doesn't leak. The engine is well made enough and modern enough that if there was a leak, I could, generally speaking, repair it and expect the repair to be good.

On the other side, I have a 1985 Mercedes 300D turbo with 345k on it. It's been pretty much mechanically restored over the 8 years I've owned it. But, it leaks. And to me, it's part of the character of the car. Turbo drain seal, oil fume breathers, etc. Even my indy, who is one of if not THE best old Benz tech in the country, told me to just live with it. My 1991 560SEL and 1997 SC300, should never leak. My wife's LT1 El Camino leaks a drop every month with about zero driving miles, and I'm not even going to bother checking what the leak Source is until the next oil change.

 

[GremlinMobile]

I agree with this to a point, and IMO it's vehicle specific.

My 100 doesn't leak. The engine is well made enough and modern enough that if there was a leak, I could, generally speaking, repair it and expect the repair to be good.

On the other side, I have a 1985 Mercedes 300D turbo with 345k on it. It's been pretty much mechanically restored over the 8 years I've owned it. But, it leaks. And to me, it's part of the character of the car. Turbo drain seal, oil fume breathers, etc. Even my indy, who is one of if not THE best old Benz tech in the country, told me to just live with it. My 1991 560SEL and 1997 SC300, should never leak. My wife's LT1 El Camino leaks a drop every month with about zero driving miles, and I'm not even going to bother checking what the leak Source is until the next oil change.

Funny enough, a good old friend of mine, also an indy, also has an old Mercedes, circa 1995 with over 250k on it. And he, of all people, always advises me against messing with minute oil leaks. He's a good mechanic and knows how to do things the right way, but he knows where to draw the line between expensive OCD repairs versus significant and potentially catastrophic ones.

 

[cbbr]

My 100 doesn't leak, it just marks its territory.

 

[kevgentile]

I agree with this to a point, and IMO it's vehicle specific.

My 100 doesn't leak. The engine is well made enough and modern enough that if there was a leak, I could, generally speaking, repair it and expect the repair to be good.

On the other side, I have a 1985 Mercedes 300D turbo with 345k on it. It's been pretty much mechanically restored over the 8 years I've owned it. But, it leaks. And to me, it's part of the character of the car. Turbo drain seal, oil fume breathers, etc. Even my indy, who is one of if not THE best old Benz tech in the country, told me to just live with it. My 1991 560SEL and 1997 SC300, should never leak. My wife's LT1 El Camino leaks a drop every month with about zero driving miles, and I'm not even going to bother checking what the leak Source is until the next oil change.

So the motor doesn't actually have 345K?

 

[kevgentile]

Funny enough, a good old friend of mine, also an indy, also has an old Mercedes, circa 1995 with over 250k on it. And he, of all people, always advises me against messing with minute oil leaks. He's a good mechanic and knows how to do things the right way, but he knows where to draw the line between expensive OCD repairs versus significant and potentially catastrophic ones.

Believe me, most mechanics that tell someone to ignore what they might refer to as a small and unnecessary repair usually just doesn't want to do it and convinces the owner to not spend the money on it. I have worked in the shop a long time and seen it happen a lot.
I've taken this approach myself. The older ones are just plan tired and the younger are just plan lazy or ignorant.
There are a lot of tired mechanics out there, I am one of them. Currently looking for a new career path.

 

[MongooseGA]

So the motor doesn't actually have 345K?

Of course it does. But the transmission, injection pump, alternator, vacuum pump, ignition cylinder, timing chain, full suspension, stereo, brakes, power steering pump, and steering box don't. Do you refer to your engine mileage by the miles on your valve cover gaskets?

 

[kevgentile]

Of course it does. But the transmission, injection pump, alternator, vacuum pump, ignition cylinder, timing chain, full suspension, stereo, brakes, power steering pump, and steering box don't. Do you refer to your engine mileage by the miles on your valve cover gaskets?

Just wondering since you mentioned a mechanical restoration. Figured you had the engine rebuilt. Guess we just use different terminology.

We're doing an M142 engine out of a WWII W142 Benz. Been a 15 year project collecting engine parts from all over the world, even a trip to Argentina.

 

[MongooseGA]

Just wondering since you mentioned a mechanical restoration. Figured you had the engine rebuilt. Guess we just use different terminology.

We're doing an M142 engine out of a WWII W142 Benz. Been a 15 year project collecting engine parts from all over the world, even a trip to Argentina.

Fair. I actually normally use "soft restoration" since it wasn't a full on traditional restoration.

That's pretty fascinating, especially when you consider the history of why the parts ended up in Argentina!

 

[kevgentile]

That's pretty fascinating, especially when you consider the history of why the parts ended up in Argentina!

My understanding is that many of the fleeing ss officers/leaders were accepted into Argentina. My guess is some of these"artifacts" found their way onto the ships with them.

 

[MongooseGA]

My understanding is that many of the fleeing ss officers/leaders were accepted into Argentina. My guess is some of these"artifacts" found their way onto the ships with them.

It's a very interesting story about their fleeing to Argentina. Many people don't know that Confederates fled to Argentina as well, and they still celebrate 'Confederale' holidays in their culture. Another conversation for sure.

 

[Import Driver]

Wow this thread really got hijacked. Guess I didn't help.

Question about oil leak naturally turns into conversation about SS officers feeling to Argentina.

 

[3nobt]

I'd do a better job of degreasing and watch closer. As other said, head cover leak is common. So I'd retorque head cover to 54 INCH-lbf and then re-clean all oil/gunky area.

The BK2 lower front (RH side) engine block, may be from above i.e. head cover, cam seal (if every replaced), oil pump O-ring. But very common area to be oily, when #1 timing belt pulley bolt threads not sealed.

BK 1 lower front area. You may have oil cooler bracket to oil pump leak from figure 8 O-ring and or oil cooler O-ring. The only time I see this/these leak. Is if bracket has been removed. Such as during a "by-the-book" Rack & pinion R&R. These can be very bad leaks, and need correcting. Cleaning and watching the joint, is very revealing.
I don't have a hand picture of oil bracket to oil pump joint, from front (which is easy to see). But here's one from rear of bracket.
View attachment 3627785
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Excellent feedback @2001LC. Will do a other round of degreasing and check torque on covers. I agree seems to be a leak on oil cooler.