200 Series Toyota Land Cruiser - Hidden Winch (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Mar 9, 2020
Threads
4
Messages
30
Location
Illinois
Hi All,
I would like to share some pictures of the hidden winch installed this past weekend in my 2008 Toyota Land Cruiser.

Steps:
  1. Remove front bumper
  2. Remove Aluminum crash bar and mounting brackets (4 nuts/each side)
  3. Mount Trail Tailor winch bracket
  4. Remove cross bar that goes below lights
  5. Remove bracket tack welded to the vertical metal bar in front of radiator (See Pix 2). I did not use any tools for this. I moved back and forth with my hand to remove it.
  6. Put bumper back and use a marker to select area were the winch bracket fairlead is located to cut the plastic bumper hole.
  7. Cut bumper hole for fairlead. This could be tricky.
  8. Install winch and run ground and positive cable to the battery by routing cables along the cables located to the right side of the vehicle below driver front light (Test winch with vehicle running). I installed the disconnect switch and it is located by the battery.
  9. Install fairlead (My winch bolts required the holes to be bigger) and run winch line through fairlead
  10. I moved the front plate higher to permanently mount so the fairlead is exposed. Be careful with drilling holes for the plate since the lights washer lines and wiring goes in the area. I used a plate screw kit (listed below). I use epoxy to glue the mounting screw lead to the bumper from behind the bumper.
  11. Installed bumper
  12. Cut the 2 horizontal section of black plastic located at the middle section of the bumper between the driver fog light and the plate mounting location. I use this area of the bumper to reach out to the winch clutch easily. The winch came with wireless remote control. If you have small hands and long arms, you can easily reach out to the location to install the remote with the wire through the same location. Otherwise, you will need to remove the radiator plastic cover by the engine bay to easily install the cable for the remote control. (See Pix 8 for final look).
Note: The trail Tailor bracket has 2 mounting places where you will secure the bottom of bumper (middle section). I had to use a piece of plastic to extend the bumper original mounting locations so I can use the bracket mounting locations to secure the bottom of the bumper. I did not want to modify the location of the brackets since it is powder coated. If the mounting L shape will be rotated 180 degrees (towards the front of the car), it would have fit perfectly. This could be the result of the type of winch use.


I used the following items:
Trail Tailor Hidden Winch Bracket - 200 Series Hidden Winch Mount
Apex Synthetic 12,000 lb Winch - APEX Synthetic 12,000 lb. Wireless Winch
Plate screw - https://www.autozone.com/screws-pin...ners/978133_0_0?cmpid=PLA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:pAC:71700000043798784

Pix 1.jpg


Pix 2.jpg


Pix 3.jpg


Pix 7.jpg


Pix 8.jpg
 
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Badass! I've been waiting for someone to document this installation.

I've always found it awesome that the cruiser can host such a large winch within the profile of the front bumper. Tucks and hides in there nicely.

How does the added weight feel up front?
 
^Always pictures. Or it didn't happen. :popcorn:
 
Badass! I've been waiting for someone to document this installation.

I've always found it awesome that the cruiser can host such a large winch within the profile of the front bumper. Tucks and hides in there nicely.

How does the added weight feel up front?
I did not measure the high before I installed the winch. It is 34" now from the ground to the top of the wheel arch with standard tires. The driving feels the same as before. I was not able to notice any difference. I also have installed the ARB under body protection and that is really heavy. Same I did not measure any high before and after.
 
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Can you reach the free spool/ clutch handle? If so, how? From below?

That’s been my biggest concern with the hidden winch (though I want one!)

also can you see the line as it spools on
 
Can you reach the free spool/ clutch handle? If so, how? From below?

That’s been my biggest concern with the hidden winch (though I want one!)

also can you see the line as it spools on
I am able to reach easily the clutch through the opening I described in step 12. See yellow highlighted in picture.
You can also reach the area where you can connect the wire for the remote control, but it is a little difficult to connect the wire, so for this, it is much easier to remove the plastic covering the radiator on top and reach the control Box to connect the control wire.

Pix 9.jpg
 
I found these guys for a remote winch controller mount. Kind of expensive for what you get but I liked the layout and I'm all about supporting small businesses. I wanted an option that would make reaching the winch controls super easy. That doesn't help with the clutch but I don't mind having to reach through the side for access.

 
I have one question: Does removing the aluminum crash bar affect safety in any way? It seems like it would but I confess I don't have an engineer's understanding of how the crash bar interacts with the rest of the safety features, crumple zones, etc.

I'm thinking about the TT option but it will cause me to move my on-board air compressor that is currently attached to the aluminum crash bar. Hmmm.....
 
Yes, it does. There's no crash bar anymore...
 
I have one question: Does removing the aluminum crash bar affect safety in any way? It seems like it would but I confess I don't have an engineer's understanding of how the crash bar interacts with the rest of the safety features, crumple zones, etc.

I'm thinking about the TT option but it will cause me to move my on-board air compressor that is currently attached to the aluminum crash bar. Hmmm.....

The concern would be the partial overlap crash where forces would not engage the main frame crash structure with the aluminum crash bar winglets. I think our rigs were designed prior to the smaller overlap crash standards.

Either way, I tried to retain some of the crash bar with an HWM. It's a one off.


1648483071440.png
 
That's nicely done!
 
That's nicely done!
Yeah, that is what I think I'd try to do as well and hopefully not have to relocate my compressor. Thanks for the photo!
 
I have one question: Does removing the aluminum crash bar affect safety in any way? It seems like it would but I confess I don't have an engineer's understanding of how the crash bar interacts with the rest of the safety features, crumple zones, etc.

I'm thinking about the TT option but it will cause me to move my on-board air compressor that is currently attached to the aluminum crash bar. Hmmm.....
Here it is another thread that goes over the same concerns. Hidden winch mount collision safety - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/hidden-winch-mount-collision-safety.1238742/
There seems to be an Australian option out-there, but I am not familiar with it. My main concern with the TT option is the area infront of the wheel well since now it does not have any protection. I like what the previous member did with extending the aluminum bar, lots of redesign if you are handy and have the tools.
 
It seems simple, if you're concerned, then don't run a hidden winch. Don't run a winch. Any configuration I can imagine will compromise the factory safety design.

Then again, if you NEED a winch (like for off road recovery) then this is a tradeoff you will probably make. Lots of things I (we) put on my (our) vehicle(s) wouldn't pass Toyota's production standards and no doubt reduce crash safety. Front metal bumpers, winches, rear metal bumpers, sliders, auxiliary fuel tanks, etc.

IMO, a winch isn't something to add unless you really need one and have the training to use it safely.
 
It seems simple, if you're concerned, then don't run a hidden winch. Don't run a winch. Any configuration I can imagine will compromise the factory safety design.

Then again, if you NEED a winch (like for off road recovery) then this is a tradeoff you will probably make. Lots of things I (we) put on my (our) vehicle(s) wouldn't pass Toyota's production standards and no doubt reduce crash safety. Front metal bumpers, winches, rear metal bumpers, sliders, auxiliary fuel tanks, etc.

IMO, a winch isn't something to add unless you really need one and have the training to use it safely.
There is still the option to install the OEM Toyota winch. This one is kinda hidden.
First picture here in this thread.
LC200 - GXR Winch 2012 - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/lc200-gxr-winch-2012.650414/

Btw this cover is mandatory in many countries for pedestrian protection if you have a steel cable.
This will not affect you in the US&a but certainly after you are allowed to attach virtually anything as long as it does not fall down again directly 😅
 
Hi All,
I would like to share some pictures of the hidden winch installed this past weekend in my 2008 Toyota Land Cruiser.

Steps:
  1. Remove front bumper
  2. Remove Aluminum crash bar and mounting brackets (4 nuts/each side)
  3. Mount Trail Tailor winch bracket
  4. Remove cross bar that goes below lights
  5. Remove bracket tack welded to the vertical metal bar in front of radiator (See Pix 2). I did not use any tools for this. I moved back and forth with my hand to remove it.
  6. Put bumper back and use a marker to select area were the winch bracket fairlead is located to cut the plastic bumper hole.
  7. Cut bumper hole for fairlead. This could be tricky.
  8. Install winch and run ground and positive cable to the battery by routing cables along the cables located to the right side of the vehicle below driver front light (Test winch with vehicle running). I installed the disconnect switch and it is located by the battery.
  9. Install fairlead (My winch bolts required the holes to be bigger) and run winch line through fairlead
  10. I moved the front plate higher to permanently mount so the fairlead is exposed. Be careful with drilling holes for the plate since the lights washer lines and wiring goes in the area. I used a plate screw kit (listed below). I use epoxy to glue the mounting screw lead to the bumper from behind the bumper.
  11. Installed bumper
  12. Cut the 2 horizontal section of black plastic located at the middle section of the bumper between the driver fog light and the plate mounting location. I use this area of the bumper to reach out to the winch clutch easily. The winch came with wireless remote control. If you have small hands and long arms, you can easily reach out to the location to install the remote with the wire through the same location. Otherwise, you will need to remove the radiator plastic cover by the engine bay to easily install the cable for the remote control. (See Pix 8 for final look).
Note: The trail Tailor bracket has 2 mounting places where you will secure the bottom of bumper (middle section). I had to use a piece of plastic to extend the bumper original mounting locations so I can use the bracket mounting locations to secure the bottom of the bumper. I did not want to modify the location of the brackets since it is powder coated. If the mounting L shape will be rotated 180 degrees (towards the front of the car), it would have fit perfectly. This could be the result of the type of winch use.


I used the following items:
Trail Tailor Hidden Winch Bracket - 200 Series Hidden Winch Mount
Apex Synthetic 12,000 lb Winch - APEX Synthetic 12,000 lb. Wireless Winch
Plate screw - https://www.autozone.com/screws-pin...ners/978133_0_0?cmpid=PLA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:pAC:71700000043798784

Thanks for the break down and pictures. It helped me install the same mounting plate and winch on my 2008 this weekend.
 

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