200 Series Spare Tire Crossmember and Tire Hoist on a 100 - Anyone done it? (1 Viewer)

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cruiseroutfit

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100 Series cable tire hoists are known to rust up and seize, some of you may have likely encountered that. Part of that is the age but the 200's use an "open" design with a chain link hoist that lets debris and perhaps most importantly salt be washed out whereas the 100 has a cable hoist that has a plastic cover that let's them get packed full of junk. I've got a pile of 200 cross-members and hoists here left over from aux tank and rear bumper installs and they all function smoothly. Yet it seems every other 100 one we pull off is seized or a PITA to operate. Is it a design "upgrade" or simply age based? The frame side mounting, width and even the frame mounting brackets look identical when you compare the two. I think the entire 200 crossmember could easily be bolted into place BUT the alignment of the actual spare tire hoist is offset approx 7" so you'd have to re-work that. Another option is to unbolt the 200 hoist from the cross-member and bolt it to the 100 cross-member. The 100 uses 4 bolts where as the 200 uses 2 so there would be some quick drilling. Also you'd need to space the 200 hoist mechanism lower on the crossmember so the tool input clears.

100 Series cable w/cover

20200411_124900.jpg


200 Series chain w/open design

20200411_124912.jpg


Side by side of the two, pic is a little deceiving, they are the same bolt hole to bolt hole mounting width.

20200411_130112.jpg


Frame side mounts, same dimensions, slightly different shape.

20200411_130518.jpg
 
I would think bolting the 200 hoist to the 100 crossmember would be the way to go. Are the hoists the same size height-wise? I'm thinking about the many of us who have done the mod that raises the crossmember closer to the body - we wouldn't want to give up some of that clearance gain if the 200 hoist is dimension-ally taller and will contact the wheel before the tire contacts the supports.
 
I would think bolting the 200 hoist to the 100 crossmember would be the way to go. Are the hoists the same size height-wise? I'm thinking about the many of us who have done the mod that raises the crossmember closer to the body - we wouldn't want to give up some of that clearance gain if the 200 hoist is dimension-ally taller and will contact the wheel before the tire contacts the supports.

No, the 100 is taller, if anything the 200 one would buy some clearance.
 
80 series chain type hoist bolted right to my 100 series. I wasn't going to mount the spare under my 80 series any longer, so I took that hoist (chain type) installed it on my LX and gave the cable hoist to a needy member here.
 
80 series chain type hoist bolted right to my 100 series. I wasn't going to mount the spare under my 80 series any longer, so I took that hoist (chain type) installed it on my LX and gave the cable hoist to a needy member here.

The entire crossmember w/hoist or the hoist only?
 
I sure like this idea; wonder if it’s work for models with the charcoal canister back there.
Also wonder if a 200 series rear crossmember with that awesome in-bumper hitch could be welded onto a 100 frame....
 
I sure like this idea; wonder if it’s work for models with the charcoal canister back there.
Also wonder if a 200 series rear crossmember with that awesome in-bumper hitch could be welded onto a 100 frame....

How much room do you have between the top of your current spare tire cross member and the charcoal canister?

For the rear hitch it would be far easier imo to add a 2" receiver sleeve and reinforce the 100 frame than attempt to graft the 200's rear frame crossmember to the 100.
 
About a half inch. But man that canister sure looks like it could be shifted forward about 1/2 inch and not foul the spare crossmember at all, which I didn’t think was a possibility when I was reading the “how to raise your spare” threads.

Regarding the hitch, yeah, that makes sense. I in fact bought a weld on receiver with that in mind.
Then the closest welder (30 min away) said it’d run me about $400 in labor to get it welded in, not even reinforced.
I re-mounted my tow bar promptly....
 
I've read where others have retrofitted the 80 series hoists to do away with the "security key" that must be used to lower the spare on 100 series. Much easier to insert the jack rod end into the 80's hoist winch input than get the 100's "security key" inserted and aligned just right to lower the spare....although it could be a gamble in a big city or high risk of theft area.

Unsure about the 200 hoist swap but looks to be doable from the pics posted above...
 
I've read where others have retrofitted the 80 series hoists to do away with the "security key" that must be used to lower the spare on 100 series. Much easier to insert the jack rod end into the 80's hoist winch input than get the 100's "security key" inserted and aligned just right to lower the spare....although it could be a gamble in a big city or high risk of theft area.

Unsure about the 200 hoist swap but looks to be doable from the pics posted above...
^^^^^
The security 'key' on the hoist is removable and what you are left with is the standard receptacle that accepts the jack rod end (hook). It's the 'cable' that is problematic on the 100 series hoists.
 
I need to remove this annoyance,,,
 
Was there any resolution to this? I just cut out my stock cable winch (completely seized) and am working on getting the rest of the assembly out now (RUUUSSSTY), but want to figure out what to put in there in the meantime. Is the 200 assembly plug-and-play on the 100 cross member? Or am I stuck just getting another 100 assembly that will inevitably rust? The cable assembly is nice because it's so easy to cut out if it seizes - do the chain assembly inevitably do the same?
 
About a half inch. But man that canister sure looks like it could be shifted forward about 1/2 inch and not foul the spare crossmember at all, which I didn’t think was a possibility when I was reading the “how to raise your spare” threads.

Regarding the hitch, yeah, that makes sense. I in fact bought a weld on receiver with that in mind.
Then the closest welder (30 min away) said it’d run me about $400 in labor to get it welded in, not even reinforced.
I re-mounted my tow bar promptly....

This thread has a step by step procedure for those of us with the Charcoal Canister in the rear.
 
Kurt, I have to think that Toyota recognized the shortcomings of the integrated cable of the 100 and went back to the tried-and-true open design with the chain that they had used on the 60 series for almost 20 years!
 

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