After switching to 295 wide tires, my spare was hanging so low you couldn’t even see the rear diff from behind.
It also dragged the dirt with poor departure angle. I needed to get some clearance back, so I’d like to share what worked for me.
I’ve seen another thread where the guy trimmed the spare tire carrier beam, but I didn’t want to cut, nor weaken the beam.
Anyway, I was inspired by the threads of lifting the stock spare tire carrier, and a buddy also lifted his 1.75”, and it was perfect.
Unfortunately when I checked my spare compartment, my ‘04 LX had the charcoal canister blocking the tire carrier from being relocated higher. After some study, I found that the charcoal canister was mounted at an angle, with 3 bolts, and by relocating 2 of the bolts, it could be rotated to allow clearance for the tire carrier beam to be raised, without any cutting.
This method only required 1 hole to be drilled,and 2 rivet nuts. This allowed the carrier to be lifted 1.25”, which still made a nice difference.
The rest pretty much follows the typical spare tire mod...
1) flip forward most bar
2) angle the rear most bar with a few washers.
3) remove tire carrier beam
3.1) lower/offset the tire winch from the beam with a couple washers. ( I used 2, M8 washers per bolt, 4 bolts)
3.2) remove the two small plates attached to the carrier beam (2 nuts each, 4 total)
3.3) carrier beam will reinstalled later with 1.25” spacers, and M8 x 50mm bolts (4 total)
4) remove 3 bolts that hold charcoal canister
4.1) flatten locating tab on the canister bracket that has the 2 bolts
4.2) reattach canister with one bolt on the side that only uses one bolt.
4.3) rotate until its parallel with the truck frame ( side to side)
There is an extra hole that will line up with the fwd hole on the bracket... lucky you.
4.4) with the canister parallel to the frame, mark and drill a 10mm hole for the rear-most bracket bolt.
4.5) install two M8 Rivet nuts, one into the blank hole, and one in the hole you drilled.
4.6) loosen and slide factory zip tie to accommodate the canister’s new rotated position
4.7) reuse original bolts and reattach the charcoal canister parallel to the frame.
The Carrier beam will now clear the charcoal canister.
5) reinstall carrier beam with 1.25” spacer and you new, longer bolts.
6) throw on your meaty spare, and enjoy some of the clearance you got back!
It also dragged the dirt with poor departure angle. I needed to get some clearance back, so I’d like to share what worked for me.
I’ve seen another thread where the guy trimmed the spare tire carrier beam, but I didn’t want to cut, nor weaken the beam.
Anyway, I was inspired by the threads of lifting the stock spare tire carrier, and a buddy also lifted his 1.75”, and it was perfect.
Unfortunately when I checked my spare compartment, my ‘04 LX had the charcoal canister blocking the tire carrier from being relocated higher. After some study, I found that the charcoal canister was mounted at an angle, with 3 bolts, and by relocating 2 of the bolts, it could be rotated to allow clearance for the tire carrier beam to be raised, without any cutting.
This method only required 1 hole to be drilled,and 2 rivet nuts. This allowed the carrier to be lifted 1.25”, which still made a nice difference.
The rest pretty much follows the typical spare tire mod...
1) flip forward most bar
2) angle the rear most bar with a few washers.
3) remove tire carrier beam
3.1) lower/offset the tire winch from the beam with a couple washers. ( I used 2, M8 washers per bolt, 4 bolts)
3.2) remove the two small plates attached to the carrier beam (2 nuts each, 4 total)
3.3) carrier beam will reinstalled later with 1.25” spacers, and M8 x 50mm bolts (4 total)
4) remove 3 bolts that hold charcoal canister
4.1) flatten locating tab on the canister bracket that has the 2 bolts
4.2) reattach canister with one bolt on the side that only uses one bolt.
4.3) rotate until its parallel with the truck frame ( side to side)
There is an extra hole that will line up with the fwd hole on the bracket... lucky you.
4.4) with the canister parallel to the frame, mark and drill a 10mm hole for the rear-most bracket bolt.
4.5) install two M8 Rivet nuts, one into the blank hole, and one in the hole you drilled.
4.6) loosen and slide factory zip tie to accommodate the canister’s new rotated position
4.7) reuse original bolts and reattach the charcoal canister parallel to the frame.
The Carrier beam will now clear the charcoal canister.
5) reinstall carrier beam with 1.25” spacer and you new, longer bolts.
6) throw on your meaty spare, and enjoy some of the clearance you got back!
