Build 1HZ-T HZJ78 All-Climate Expo Build

Member Build Threads

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Removed dcdc charger and replaced with winch solenoids
IMG_20190706_1534131.webp



Positive from alternator from the post now going straight to crank battery
IMG_20190706_1538383.webp



Top of battery now looking like this
IMG_20190706_1539568.webp
 
To install the factory fuel solenoids in their rightful place, had to remove the box I'd installed there for the exhaust brake vacuum switch. With the prefilter being removed from it's rightful place to have one beside each tank pre solenoids, I fitted the exhaust brake vacuum switch where the prefilter lived. It's now unprotected but it's supposedly waterproof.

IMG_20190706_1551375.webp
 
What remains in the engine bay is just improved intercooler piping, AC hosery and aftermarket sensors and wiring, which will have its own loom... EGT, boost, water temp, oil temp, oil pressure, fuel pressure and air temperature (outside or intercooler, undecided).
 
Gengis said:
Why did you drop the DC DC charger?? Also, a winch solenoide may draw quite a bit of current and not be rated for continious operation. I'm not sold on the DC/DC unless you can afford a Lithium second battery .
G
Click to expand...
It wasn't going to work with my alternator to have a dcdc on the cranker, and it wasn't really necessary. When I bought two I thought I'd give it a go just to be different, see if I could make it work, but it was just adding layers of complexity to make it work, all just to get a little more life out of my cranker, not worth it. So I'll still have a dcdc on my auxiliary battery, and now I have a spare in case that dies.

The solenoid on my winch positive is rated to 1000 amps continous and up to 2000 for short spikes if I remember correctly. It won't draw anything when not in use, and the draw for the switch is negligible.
 
Bisonthecruiser said:
Christmas update???? :)
Click to expand...
Sorry, I haven't been on here in a while, and life has been getting in the way as usual... no photos unfortunately, but what i have ticked off the list are:
- new brake lines installed
- welded in factory seat mounts and made a seat mount adapter plate for the new seats that also includes a secret storage space under the seats
- redid diff and gearbox/transfer breather lines to an ARB unit under the bonnet
- removed windscreen to repair rust
- welded in eight 3mm floor plates with nuts for the rollcage bases
- welded in 12 full length strips with nuts along the full roof line, and a strip down the A pillar to bolt rollcage in along the roof as well
- added additional supports to bolt rollcage between floor and roof wherever possible.
 
Is all fine? Do you have updates to share?

This was an amazing and engaging read. What dedication and perseverance! Over the top for sure.
 
DamoPeru said:
Here’s some photos of the final (or at least current) engine bay electrical box, necessarily changed as I increased the number of things to relay/fuse and upgraded the 120amp isolator to a waterproof 500amp Blue Sea with manual cutout, so for space management the relays came out of the protected environment and the resized box is now just to protect the extra fuses. Goes without saying, but this is all for the circuits that run directly from the start battery, which are limited to just winch controls, all lighting used while driving, the exhaust brake and the air horn
View attachment 1625039

Had to change over to the blue sea isolator as I decided (against my previous wisdom) to get a 12,000 lb winch and got a 270 amp alternator to suit and to increase charging capacity, as the standard 80 amp had been struggling with the 340 Ahr total of both batteries.

But I love it, works really well as an isolator, automatically separates the batteries for a few minutes when the starter is activated to protect from anything weird that might happen at startup, sensible dash control switch that blinks when somethings wrong, but I love the manual override switch on the unit that deactivates everything for when I go into a workshop for peace of mind.
View attachment 1625040

Still need to get the relay wiring into tubes, but they’re up as high as possible, and in that position any water should drain out and not cause any problems. View attachment 1625038
Click to expand...
Do I see a relay for an exhaust brake? I'm quite ingterested in that - what make & type do you have? Have you put it on yourself?
Cheers,
 
DamoPeru said:
Edit: this is a better intro photo, my thinned down repair manual, where I replaced all the sections updated by supplements and removed the bits on other models.
View attachment 1471601
Click to expand...
I just realised from that first picture that you probably have access to RM290E manual. Would you be so kind to share it somehow? I tried to, but I couldn't find it anywhere.
 
vega01 said:
I just realised from that first picture that you probably have access to RM290E manual. Would you be so kind to share it somehow? I tried to, but I couldn't find it anywhere.
Click to expand...
If you're interested in the version up untik 1990 (RM183E) you might want to send me a private message...
 
Whoosh said:
If you're interested in the version up untik 1990 (RM183E) you might want to send me a private message...
Click to expand...
What am I saying... too quick with the fingers. From '90 onward.
 
Whoosh said:
Do I see a relay for an exhaust brake? I'm quite ingterested in that - what make & type do you have? Have you put it on yourself?
Cheers,
Click to expand...
The exhaust brake is from Gearing Dynamics in oz, the 3" model for the 1HZ. Works good, gives you 'more gears ' on long hway descents, but no real use offroad. Simple install if you can cut your exhaust and weld the flanges. Pretty simple electrics and you tee into the vacuum line for its operation. The switches are very specific and sensitive, i ordered an extra switch as well as an extra actuation spring when i bought it to have spares, and have now used all as the spring rusted up when it was sitting for some years and the bloke who upholstered my floor screwed up the accelerator switch through carelessness.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom