Nope, I've not had to change one on any of mine with 2-300k km on the original pump.
I'm not saying don't change it, but I don't think I would.
1HDT Big End Bearings
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Nope, I've not had to change one on any of mine with 2-300k km on the original pump.
I'm not saying don't change it, but I don't think I would.
I would look for signs that the water pump has been leaking. There is usually an accumulation of dried coolant in the drain hole under the pump. Ive replaced a few, they all went around 250-270k/klms
with the work involved in the water pump replacement and the price of a new water pump .. I would replace while there no question ask ..
my .0002 cents ..
What are the prices for a pump in the US, I think last the time I looked it was about $150USD for me delivered from Saudi Arabia? It would be a pity to throw away a good pump. If the engine has truly dome 100000klms, the pump should be good for at least another 150000klms.
His call.
replace my pump like year ago or so and paid about 80 bucks or so .. IIRC ..
looking for a bit of info here. its time to do my BEBs and i’ve never done this before. i ordered up the parts from 4wheel in edmonton. to turn the engine over does one need to pull the glow plugs or anything or it is it possible just by hand. i recently did my timing belt and seem to remember that i could turn the crank without decompressing the cylinder but just trying to move a piston a little to change the bearing might be different!
hope i’m not too late to my party changing them out. engine runs great but i’ve noticed a new rattle sound and it seems to be coming from the lower back area of my engine. they’ve not been done as far as i know but i’ve been preoccupied with other maintenance. cross fingers it’s not a sign of a needed rebuild now!!
hope i’m not too late to my party changing them out. engine runs great but i’ve noticed a new rattle sound and it seems to be coming from the lower back area of my engine. they’ve not been done as far as i know but i’ve been preoccupied with other maintenance. cross fingers it’s not a sign of a needed rebuild now!!
that’s my understanding yes.
Yes, BEB's.
big end bearings. Or conrod bearings.
i use taiho.
big end bearings. Or conrod bearings.
i use taiho.
I would definitely pull all the glow plugs. It will make a huge difference in effort and control when turning the motor over.
You don't want a rod bolt to scratch a crank journal because you were cut to g with 20:1 compression when chasing BEBs.
I'm not a fan of idea of changing BEBs because the internet says do it every 100k km. There's a real risk of damaging crank journals changing BEBs with the engine in the car.
IMO, is best to do some oil sample analysis first over a few oil changes, and look for signs of bearing degradation first.
Where do you see the risk?
Have been doing it a few times, not a big or risky job in my book?
But to change the entire crank because of PO not checking up on the bearings _that_ was a big job...
Where do you see the risk?
Have been doing it a few times, not a big or risky job in my book?
But to change the entire crank because of PO not checking up on the bearings _that_ was a big job...
Main risk I see is accidental damage to crank journals.
Rotate the crank with a rod in a bad spot, rod bolts can certainly damage a journal.
The idea that BEBs HAVE TO be changed every 100k km is garbage.
Countless 25yr old 1HD-T running around on original BEBs with 5, 6, 700 k km on them.
Oil analysis will give you an early warning. If you change oil every 5k km, analyse every 2nd oil change.
The BEBs aren't going to go from pristine, to hand grenade in a 10k km interval.
I would never rotate the crank with any of the rods disconnected, but I get your point.
Don't know how prices are downunder but in Europe 10x oil analysis would set me back 2 x the price of changing the BEB , including the labor.
You are absolutely right, no one HAVE TO change BEB every 100k, the first set of mine held up for 299.989km before destroing the crank and 2 conrods.
Next engine I openend had been going strong for for aprox 250k and the beb's were looking like they could have done another 50k easy.
In North America we were late to the party with the 13BT, 12HT, 1HD-T etc. Over a decade ago, when we started getting crates of motors and parts as well as a few complete rigs from Japan, the DTLC mailing list had been around for a while (The RMLCA is doing a great service by keeping these archives going imo). JDM imports were growing in Canada (15 year import rule). There was a section on Mud created called JDM Owners Alliance. Willem-Jan Markerink on the DTLC had a lot of information about the BEB issue on his website, which is now gone. If you sift through the DTLC archives there are some comments.
I would not advocate leaving them in an engine unknown to me. Part of this difference in perspective is perhaps based on the fact that these are not near as common engines in North America as they would be in Australia (or other parts of the world). The world certainly is smaller then it used to be so sourcing is not a huge hurdle, but it's still there.
I recall reading years ago the thought was JDM 1HD-T's in Japan were not having problems because JDM spec'd oils were being used (high sodium). When the JDM scene started in Canada, it did not take long to figure out that was not true. A good number we did (not all) showed signs of pitting. I had heard of a couple recent imports (in that era) cratering on road trips to new homes, as folk did not baseline with new BEB's as part of the importation. I thought at that time you changed them once and all was good as this post in 2006 attests too. Long enough has passed here that folks who have changed them a 2nd time have also shown signs of pitting.
On my personal engine I did them with ACL's while it was out of the truck, as part of the baseline. I just looked for photos and can't find them. I don't believe iirc that they were very bad. I've just crossed 100,000kms and did the timing belt. I also did two oil samples this year. I have decided to leave them till 150,000kms and will change the bearings then. I've some Taiho bearings on the shelf. Might be overkill to do them at 150,000kms. Might not. Time will tell. Heck of a lot less muss and fuss to do the BEB's then rebuild the motor.
To recap: I think leaving them on an unknown engine is not a good thing. I agree oil analysis is a good idea at various points later in the engines life so you get something of an idea what's going on. And for me the current plan is to change them at 150,000kms.
I've thought for a while it would be a good idea to create an "Official 1HD-T 1HD-FT 1HD-FTE and 1HZ BEB thread" where real data can be posted up as the years move by: Year, block number, kms and photos of bearings are posted up, to create a long term information thread.
hth's
gb
I would not advocate leaving them in an engine unknown to me. Part of this difference in perspective is perhaps based on the fact that these are not near as common engines in North America as they would be in Australia (or other parts of the world). The world certainly is smaller then it used to be so sourcing is not a huge hurdle, but it's still there.
I recall reading years ago the thought was JDM 1HD-T's in Japan were not having problems because JDM spec'd oils were being used (high sodium). When the JDM scene started in Canada, it did not take long to figure out that was not true. A good number we did (not all) showed signs of pitting. I had heard of a couple recent imports (in that era) cratering on road trips to new homes, as folk did not baseline with new BEB's as part of the importation. I thought at that time you changed them once and all was good as this post in 2006 attests too. Long enough has passed here that folks who have changed them a 2nd time have also shown signs of pitting.
On my personal engine I did them with ACL's while it was out of the truck, as part of the baseline. I just looked for photos and can't find them. I don't believe iirc that they were very bad. I've just crossed 100,000kms and did the timing belt. I also did two oil samples this year. I have decided to leave them till 150,000kms and will change the bearings then. I've some Taiho bearings on the shelf. Might be overkill to do them at 150,000kms. Might not. Time will tell. Heck of a lot less muss and fuss to do the BEB's then rebuild the motor.
To recap: I think leaving them on an unknown engine is not a good thing. I agree oil analysis is a good idea at various points later in the engines life so you get something of an idea what's going on. And for me the current plan is to change them at 150,000kms.
I've thought for a while it would be a good idea to create an "Official 1HD-T 1HD-FT 1HD-FTE and 1HZ BEB thread" where real data can be posted up as the years move by: Year, block number, kms and photos of bearings are posted up, to create a long term information thread.
hth's
gb
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k just finished my BEBs and it was a pretty easy job. after setting the truck up on stands and draining the oil a few days ago it took me 2.5 hours to install new bearings. i still have to clean and reinstall oil pan tomorrow but it’s really not a hard job. my original bearings on a 1991 1HDT with about 500 000km look like this
tiny pitting on the bottom of no.2. (6 is at top and 1 bottom of the photos)
i’m happy i’ve done it but happier that they are in this good of shape with perfect crank journals!!
tiny pitting on the bottom of no.2. (6 is at top and 1 bottom of the photos)
i’m happy i’ve done it but happier that they are in this good of shape with perfect crank journals!!
Interesting to see them in that good a shape after 500k km.
Curious if you had done any used oil analysis?
Curious if you had done any used oil analysis?
Totally agree with mudg - oil analysis is a fantastic thing. Sure 10x oil sample kits might be more than the purchase price of a set of BEBs but that’s over a very long period and it tells you a hell of a lot more than the state of your bearings. It will pretty much tell you about any internal issue long before any other signs. In fact I’d even say you should do it regardless of a BEB worry Or not... also you’d only need one sample ($27 from Cat here) to tell you you had high lead (which you’d get with failing BEBs) or not. And every time you open an engine up (like pulling a sump and journals off) you always I introduce some form of risk (like in correct torque, faulty bearings, assembly mistake etc.) and dirt Ingress. If you can avoid all that, and time/hassle and expense by a simple oil sample why wouldn’t you? Would be much safer to whip out a roll of cash from your wallet and burn it.
Also - data on 1hzs and FTEs would be pretty boring as the general rule is they only need touching if they’ve been in dry...
although out of interest I did pull a BEB when I was changing the sump over on my fte with 395k on it and surprise surprise the bearing was very almost blemishless and the crank looked like it had just come back from being polished.
Also - data on 1hzs and FTEs would be pretty boring as the general rule is they only need touching if they’ve been in dry...
although out of interest I did pull a BEB when I was changing the sump over on my fte with 395k on it and surprise surprise the bearing was very almost blemishless and the crank looked like it had just come back from being polished.
no i didn’t do oil analysis. may be i should have but i committed to this job before i really thought about it. i agree that there’s always a risk of introducing a problem when fixing/changing anything. also i always have to remember what my time is worth. $200 for new bolts and bearings might not seem like much but 4 hours of my time is worth a lot more than that. oil analysis would be faster i’m sure! it’s now done though so i know the engines history a little better. i don’t plan on doing them every 100k. ill use oil analysis from here onwards and replace only when necessary
DirtDauberGarage
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I’m bringing up an old topic again—thanks for your patience. I realize this has been discussed extensively, but I want to confirm my understanding. The bearing issue stems from the original material Toyota used in the 1990s, and new bearings are made of better material.
Given this, if a 1HDT had its bearings replaced in 2022 with Taiho bearings, does that mean future bearing replacements are unnecessary, or should they still be replaced at regular intervals?
Given this, if a 1HDT had its bearings replaced in 2022 with Taiho bearings, does that mean future bearing replacements are unnecessary, or should they still be replaced at regular intervals?