1HD-T + A/C + York (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jan 8, 2009
Threads
61
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439
Location
North Saanich, BC, Canada
I have been working on fitting a York on my 1HD-T while retaining A/C. So far I have the bracket made to hold the York flat against the head. It is very tight!!! You have to get the top two bolts in the bracket before you screw on the bracket. And you have to take the oil cap off to get a wrench on one bolt. I was not able to fit the fourth bolt, so the York is only held with three.

I brought the plate up high enough and put a large hole in it as a lift point if I ever need to pull the engine again. The original lift point is gone with the original A/C bracket. A person could remove the York and A/C and re-install the original mount to pull the engine but... it would be a matter of finding said mount in 5-10 years in the basement, etc..... :hillbilly:

The A/C pump will mount to the outside of the York, and it will pivot to tension the belt. Once I get everything lined up and working, I will try to add some supports under the York so the body of the York isn't carrying all the weight of the A/C compressor.

A/C lines to the compressor will most likely need to be modified, but I have to modify them anyway since I have an R12 condenser going to an R134a compressor... (That is in an effort to get the R12 receiver/dryer location beside the battery.)

I'll post up my results when I get the A/C bracket made in the next week or so.

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If you're feeling adventurous and want to make another I'll buy one! If not, I will shamelessly copy your design.

I've had a York 210 sitting in my garage for a few years now...
 
The way you schooled the internet and breezed through your 1hdt conversion ,I have complete confidence in your ability and outcome.
 
Great work! Following your progress on this one and if you do end up making more I may want one too.
 
maybe use studs on the york, and nuts near the oil cap? might give you just a hair more clearance? hard to tell from the pictures. Looks like you're on a good track.
 
It took me three different designs to get the A/C bracket to fit. What looks like "enough space" holding the compressor by hand quickly gets eaten up by 1/4" thick steel and other logistics. First bracket hit the alternator. Second bracket was going to allow A/C to tilt to tension the belt... hit battery box. Third try incorporated the factory tensioner, and every thing appears to fit. Note, I had to remove the battery box to get the belt on. There is about 1/2" clearance. I did not re-install the battery box to take the photo because I still have to take everything apart to paint the brackets and stuff.

I ended up using the 10PA15C compressor from my older truck (R12) not the longer 10PA17C compressor from the new truck (R134a). The longer compressor would jam against the air intake going down to the turbo. A person could probably jam it in there, but I thought it might wear a hole through the air pipe eventually. But I am going to use the "top plate" from the 10PA17C compressor as it has the lines coming out at better angles. I think the factory 1FZ-FE a/c lines will actually reach without modification.

I'm pretty sure the A/C will work fine, but I'm a little concerned about how short the arc of contact is on the York pulley. I tried to look up formulas to calculate horsepower transfer, but..... not motivated to measure everything right now. I think it will be easier to hook it up and try inflating a few tires and just see if the belt slips.

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I pumped up a SCBA bottle to 175 psi and there was no belt slip so I think she's good! Now to plumb everything...
 
Ok here are the detailed photos of the finished brackets. I do not plan to manufacture these for sale, so feel free to copy me!!!

The first photos show how the whole assembly attaches to the engine. There are 4 M10 bolts into the cylinder head and 1 M10 bolt into the block, just above the alternator. The York bracket bolts to the head, and the A/C bracket has a leg that bolts to the block.

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First, the York bracket bolts to the head. You'll notice I have to put the top 2 York bolts in place first, as there is not enough clearance to the valve cover once the bracket is tightened up. It is also necessary to remove the oil cap to swing the wrench on the rear York bolt.

Once the York is attached to its bracket, the A/C bracket bolts to the outside of the York. I was only able to fit the 2 top bolts into the York, but there is a leg at the bottom that bolts to the block for additional support. The A/C compressor bolts to this bracket with 4 long bolts. The bracket itself is threaded -- there is no room for nuts. I think 4 bolts threaded into 1/4" steel should be strong enough to support the A/C compressor. The top two bolts have pieces of tubing as stand-offs, as the A/C compressor is round. I initially had stand-offs on the bottom as well, but the bracket hit the alternator, so I had to curve it in around the compressor. You will see in the photo, that this A/C bracket also has a large hole to access the oil fill plug on the York and a smaller hole to accommodate a piece which sticks out of my compressor top plate (not shown).

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There is a tab on the A/C bracket with 2 threaded holes into which the original A/C belt tensioner bolts. In the photo you will see 3 threaded holes... one is a mistake :doh: This tab is re-inforced from behind with a perpendicular piece of metal.

I tried a couple different belt lengths, and ended up with a 59" belt. The York has been tested and works great. I need to get one custom A/C line made up, and then I will be able to get that charged up.

NOTE RE: A/C LINES: I am using the HDJ81 (R12) compressor with the FZJ80 (R134a) top plate. The stock FZJ80 A/C line which goes to the firewall fits with no modification. The FZJ80 line which goes to the condenser needs to be lengthened by approximately 1 foot so that it can come up behind the battery box and loop into the compressor. (I will take photos once I get mine lengthened.) I do NOT think it is possible to use the HDJ81 top plate on the compressor. That is, if you want to run a York on a HDJ81, you will need to find a different top plate that allows the A/C lines to come out at better angles. Also the HDJ81 top plate has the low-side filler cap sticking out the side that the York is on. Furthermore, I think both A/C lines going to the compressor would need to be modified if you only had HDJ81 parts available.

The final photo shows the clearance between the R12 compressor (Nippon Denso 10PA15C) and the air intake going to the turbo. This shows that the longer 10PA17C compressor would definitely make contact.

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Have you thought about getting a different idler pulley to tension the belt in the flat side to increase pulley engagement on the York and a/c compressor?
 
Have you thought about getting a different idler pulley to tension the belt in the flat side to increase pulley engagement on the York and a/c compressor?

Yes that is an option if the belt ever slips. But so far it seems okay... I think the York is designed to pump to 200-300 psi but my pressure switch will turn it off at 125 psi, so it is never going to have the maximum load on the belt.

The A/C compressor has close to the same amount of wrap on the pulley as the stock configuration... just a bit less. I think it should be fine, but I will find out for sure once I get my last A/C line made up.
 
Holy shoehorn batman! I've always wanted a setup like this but my intercooler pipes make it even more unobtainium. Looks like you are winning....
 
Doesn't look like it would be too tough to make, especially now that we know that it can be done like this.

It's on my list of projects for next summer.
 
ditto
 
Nice work Nathaniel, should come in handy when I have to air up. :D
 
Lucky its a left hand drive,nice driver weight balancing. Nope not jealous at all.:frown:nice work new you'd do it.
 

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