- Thread starter
- #421
I pushed the fitting through the back side and was able to clean it up with an exacto.
Build 1FZ-FE TRD S/C Rebuild
- Thread starter thetoyotaman
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- #422
Wiring up next…
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- #423
After a little interlude of having to do a manifold, plenum, and water pipe gaskets along with a heater control valve on my daughter's 96 4Runner, I went to move the 80 to get back at it to find a dead battery. Put the charger on it for the night. Need to check the new amplifier as I'm not sure it's turning off.
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- #424
In the meantime, my son and I installed the relay, fuse, power & ground. We wired the pump, grounded the level sensor, and ran the switched power into the dash.
Next, is to connect the switched power, dash lights including a long wire run from the tank, and the boost pressure switch. And of course adjust / add methanol AND enjoy!
Next, is to connect the switched power, dash lights including a long wire run from the tank, and the boost pressure switch. And of course adjust / add methanol AND enjoy!
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- #425
Wiring was not too bad. A little tedious. Used marine grade heat shrink connectors under the hood and made a plug under the dash for the light display. Trying to wrap most of it up. Not sure how I want to mount the boost switch.
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- #426
Happy 4th everyone! The 80 is back on the road. Fun to be driving it again. Curious @cruiserdan if you have a scan tool to watch the timing curve. I'm curious if the max timing while driving is 40 degrees as seen in this thread:
With my aftermarket cam grinds I'm watching parameters closely to see if these are better but it is definitely pulling hills unlike before.
With my aftermarket cam grinds I'm watching parameters closely to see if these are better but it is definitely pulling hills unlike before.
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- #427
Did a test drive today up a pass considered by my machinist the perfect hill for an engine break in. Parameters: Around 85 degrees outside. 3 degrees base timing & 91 octane. Running a step colder plug. No pinging noted.
Manually tested the system using air pressure to confirm operation rigging up a vacuum/pressure gauge and a multimeter. Turning the screw out lowers the boost it kicks in at. Snow recommends half of total boost. Initial setting at about 2 psi but I’m thinking this might be a little overkill and I’d like to run a smaller pulley. The LED is handy to know when it’s operating.
Manually tested the system using air pressure to confirm operation rigging up a vacuum/pressure gauge and a multimeter. Turning the screw out lowers the boost it kicks in at. Snow recommends half of total boost. Initial setting at about 2 psi but I’m thinking this might be a little overkill and I’d like to run a smaller pulley. The LED is handy to know when it’s operating.
Mine is OBD1. Never tried to read that. You need a proprietary breakout box to do it. Back in the day that tool cost the dealer over 4 grand (early 1990s dollars)
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- #429
The beauty of my ultra gauge is I can look at lots of stuff with OBDII like timing, fuel trims, etc.
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- #430
One thing I wasn’t very comfortable with is that the low level indicator based on their diagram had no safety fuse so I added a 5 amp one today to the trigger wire.
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- #431
Ordered a new TPS as I have had erratic fuel trim readings continuously. I’ve read the FSM on how to mechanically set it. After bolting it on I thought I would see how the Ultra Gauge would read and fully closed it was 8.93 and fully open 71 so it looks like it is just fine for now.
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- #432
New TPS seems to be causing the engine to run smoother. There’s less wild fuel trim swings although I’m noticing a notchy accelerator pedal that seems to be coming from the throttle shaft as all is smooth when it’s disconnected. These are discontinued so ordered a used one from a 11/97 LX450. Hopefully that will fix the issue. Need to see if the IAC is working. Engine definitely feels like it’s not fighting itself anymore with the new cams.
Hi
I was searching this site & came on your excellent posts. Just want to mention few things that my 97 TRD/Kazuma SC have that I don’t see in your pics (but may not be significant)
1- there a fan clutch spacer (30mm thick) that moves the fan blades out more towards the radiator.
2- my fan blades has ring around the outer part of blades.
3- fan clutch mounting bolts/studs don’t look right assuming if the correct spacer is going to be used.
4- I replaced my fan clutch oil with thicker viscosity oil ( 20k cst) & gained better a/c performance at lower speeds specially during stop&go in the heat of Florida hot summer days.
Your engine cooling efficiency at various engine rpm maybe affected by fan not in proper position in respect to the shroud.
Sorry for the late response
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- #434
It’s all good. Everything is maxed out for cooling efficiency with a fan spacer, heavy fluid in the fan clutch, using the 1FZ fan for maximum cooling instead of the ring fan and I have an electric fan for the AC.
FYI, most people have gotten away from the ring fan and the original spacer because you lose so much cooling from the original fan.
FYI, most people have gotten away from the ring fan and the original spacer because you lose so much cooling from the original fan.
Thank you so much for the updates.
Just wondering, where do you get the new smaller spacer & how many mm thickness? Did it come with red clutch fan?
Can you please share your experiences brand of fan & wiring diagram of electric radiator fan? Please pm me
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- #436
Found an 11/97 LX450 throttle body. It appears to be in great condition after cleaning. Throttle shaft is tight. Installed the new TPS. Cold fast idle working. Curious what cold start rpm is typical. I’m still having a notchy pedal so ordered a new OEM one even though it seems to test ok. Fuel trims are still randomly swinging. Starting to suspect an ECU failure.
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- #437
Well, I've been getting the P0171 code. I'm sure it's related to the wild erratic fuel trims I'm seeing. I inspected the down pipe before the O2 sensor and not recognizing any leaks. Also still suspicious of a ECU failure. Just thought I would continue to document the journey here.
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- #438
Usually when I see an exhaust leak I see black carbon buildup. I noticed where the front bank manifold bolts to the downpipe an interesting white section. Not sure if this is a leak problem or what.
