1FZ-FE engine refresh parts list (OEM)

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Do you plan on replacing your wiring harness as well?

I didn't see it on the list, but I only heavy-skimmed it.
 
Dirt Ferguson said:
Do you plan on replacing your wiring harness as well?

I didn't see it on the list, but I only heavy-skimmed it.
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Hey what's up Dirt! Let me know if you want to hook up somewhere nearby and do an 80 series run or even just meet for coffee.

Yeah I didn't go through the whole list but yeah I absolutely plan on replacing my wiring harness one of the first things I did was my EGR spot but you could see the things got warm.
 
I bought one a couple weeks ago @COYS

It’s now lying in wait. Stoked.

I’m looking forward to hearing your impressions about the driving experience with a fresh engine, and all the extras. Great thread.
 
Dirt Ferguson said:
I’m looking forward to hearing your impressions about the driving experience with a fresh engine, and all the extras. Great thread.
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ih8 scholar asks, ye shall receive.

Perhaps a bit premature to share, but I just performed my first break-in oil change at 520 miles flushing out 5w-30 OEM Toyota conventional for same spec Walmart special (Valvoline synthetic blend). So far, so good. No sediments in oil observed. Zero oil loss which is welcomed as I honestly got sick and tired of carrying around a quart or two. 13.3 mpg using regular gas, on 37s/4.88, LA congested roads. That's about a ~.8-1 mpg improvement over the og engine guzzling premium Chevron/Shell/76.

Q: Would I do the new OEM long block proj all over again?

A: Absolutely. I can tell in the past 50 miles or so the engine feels more languid and smoother to apply power. I'm hoping the 4.5L continues to stretch its Bambi legs as I take it easy to the next 1.5K/5K mile oil change intervals. Thereafter, I'll switch to the ubiquitous 5w-30 Mobil full synthetic.

Q: What are some things you'd do differently if mulligan?

A: I'd make sure to tell the machine shop assembler or whoever's working on the engine to take special care to clean up the iron block area that's covered by the timing chain cover. With a new OEM short block, there's a small chance you may have some casting debris, tiny iron bits, that may find itself swimming between the crank gear, oil pump gear and power steering pump vane gear (44316-60020). Even the slightest nick on these gears of any type may make an incredible noise that beggars belief. I didn't realize through all my hours pouring over Toyota engine diagrams that the power steering pump vane gear mates with the other critical engine gears and it makes sense since it's technically an ancillary part. IMHO, it's best practice to match new for new so make sure you get all new gears (3 of them in rotation) to go with your all new Toyota beautiful long block.

Only other thing is order parts all at once from a USA parts counter. I didn't have a comprehensive list I could reference like this thread. Now I know if I were to do it again I can do it one stop shop. There was no part as I can recall that I ordered from the Middle East that wasn't available via Toyota USA. I like to support my local Toyota parts peeps as I value the relationships built f2f.

Q: What's your most pleasing observation post-rebuild?

A: If not the engine feel/perf over the fullness of time, I'd say it's hands down the new power steering box. The old box was still tight for a 25 year old, but I could feel demonstrably improved tightness in steering motion off center with the new box. I know the FSM allows for some degree of slack off center, but the best way I can describe the change is there's more resistance even in the FSM prescribed margins if that makes any sense. There's no loose steering motion any place in cycling through the steering operation. The steering box was the last mile as epilogue to Delta 4 arms, all new OEM suspension rubbers and tie rods.

Q: If you wanted to find areas where you could reduce spend, what does that look like?

A: If I had a trustworthy 1FZ-FE assembler, I would reuse the og short block ($3500+). I'd reuse/refresh rather than replace fuel injectors ($900). I would consider reusing the cam shafts ($1K). I'd refresh the steering box, but then there's nothing like a new OEM box (net $1K). There's $5-6K right there you can shave off from a completely new OEM block and still have a delightful powerplant.

Anything else?

Don't forget the igniter and coil (89621-26010 / 19080-66010). I wish I nabbed a Toyota OEM reman transmission a few years ago when it was still available. That would've been dreamy to mate it to my new engine.

All the new OEM body mounts and related parts are still gathering dust in storage. I didn't get around to it.

I hope this helps!
 
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Ahh, good call, I ordered a couple knock sensor wires to repair my harness with a much better splice from @NLXTACY .

I can just see it acting up on a family trip this summer and trying to figure out what's going on on the side of the road, no thanks always focused on reliability and preventative maintenance to save the headache.

I'm going for the NASA solder with clear heat shrink sealed ends for the win on that Wits End wire knock connection.

I definitely plan to get a new harness when I order my short block.
 
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BillyGoatMTB said:
I definitely plan to get a new harness when I order my short block.
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I'd be curious to know if what Joey has in his stash is the made in Japan variety. I know there have been reports of more recent harness orders being sourced out of Vietnam. I have zero concerns so long as Toyota OEM, but would snag the Japan set over Vietnam if given the choice.
 
COYS said:
I'd be curious to know if what Joey has in his stash is the made in Japan variety. I know there have been reports of more recent harness orders being sourced out of Vietnam. I have zero concerns so long as Toyota OEM, but would snag the Japan set over Vietnam if given the choice.
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That's a great point never in a million years would I imagine Toyota would be making parts OEM and Vietnam. If it's stocked by @NLXTACY that's good enough for me I know it's rock solid :flipoff2:

I remember for the fusible link the PO cut my harness on the truck side and I was able to source a factory replacement connector and wire. I thought about doing the same for the knock sensor when I saw the crappy splice by the PO but then I was browsing wits and clicked easy :hillbilly:
 
COYS said:
The PCV hoses are now... made in China. Gasp.

Not surprised here. Vietnam's economy is growing like gangbusters.
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No china on my Rig, no thanks

I'll need to keep my eyes open from now on, thanks for sharing.
 
COYS said:
Fast forward 4 months short of 2 years from my original post, here's the finished product.

View attachment 2898786

Food for thought, sourcing new Toyota shims might be the critical path to buttoning things up especially if you're building a new head so take this factor into account. Lifters, too. There's so little demand for them that they were in short supply here and overseas during my build.

Enjoy the process my friends and thanks for playing!

P.S. This dude is legit for sourcing T parts

Dave Stedman
Japan4x4
http://export.japan4x4.com (English)
JAPAN4x4 - http://www.japan4x4.com/ (Japanese)
Importers and Distributors
stedman@japan4x4.com
Direct Dial to Dave from the USA 510-931-6324
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I can't tell from the pictures did you ceramic coat parts of your engine?
 
BillyGoatMTB said:
I can't tell from the pictures did you ceramic coat parts of your engine?
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No, I kept everything og.

5/3/22 update:

IMG_0839.webp


3K miles on the new long block as I type.
  • No lights on the dash (did an EGR/VSV overhaul as part of engine build)
  • Zero oil consumption
  • No oddball noises
  • Mixed urban LA jungle driving
  • Most miles accrued from a roundtrip visit to Cruiser Outfitters which has something like 3-4 passes to climb and descend (6K feet above sea)
Screen Shot 2022-05-03 at 6.33.29 PM.png


Steady as she goes! 🤞

Here's a bonus EGR/VSV/VCV OEM refresh list:

25620-66011EGR valve assemblyegr/vacuum
90910-12079Vacuum switch valveegr/vacuum
25870-66011EGR vacuum modulatoregr/vacuum
16261-66040Water bypass hoseegr/vacuum
16264-66021Water bypass hoseegr/vacuum
16267-66020Water bypass hoseegr/vacuum
25695-66010EGR vacuum hoseegr/vacuum
90917-10049Check valveegr/vacuum
90980-11153Connector housingegr/vacuum
90413-04019Three wayegr/vacuum
90910-12043Vacuum switch valveegr/vacuum
90999-92006Vacuum hoseegr/vacuum
90999-92007Vacuum hoseegr/vacuum
90925-03192Vacuum control valveegr/vacuum
22271-66010Throttle body gasketegr/vacuum
17179-66010Intake manifold gasketegr/vacuum
17171-66010Intake manifold gasketegr/vacuum
25627-66010EGR valve gasketegr/vacuum
44773-60150Brake booster vacuum hoseegr/vacuum
90480-24015Check valve grommet (brakes)egr/vacuum
44730-28010Brake booster check valveegr/vacuum
90999-92003Hose vacuumegr/vacuum
90999-92004Hose vacuumegr/vacuum
90999-92008Hose vacuumegr/vacuum
95337-06020Hose fuelegr/vacuum
95333-06010Hose fuel (100cm)egr/vacuum (went overboard on hoses)
25701-66011Vacuum control valveegr/vacuum
 
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I'm in the final phases of my head gasket slash full refresh and am very happy I chose to replace the wiring harness.

I also pulled and rebuilt my transmission harness it's all freshened up

I'll now be able to enjoy my rig and slowly build a new engine over the next year or two

20220501_193816-COLLAGE.webp
 
If anyone is interested I priced out the first list on post #33 at a dealer and without discounts comes to $27,000, assuming a dealer hooks you up, maybe $20k
 
Sorry if it was listed somewhere in the thread, maybe I missed it?

What all is included in the engine kit 04111-66036?

All I can tell is from looking at pictures online: HG, valve cover gasket, intake manifold gaskets, exhaust manifold gaskets, oil cooler gaskets, and the rest of the parts are too small for me to eyeball from the pictures.
 
Heckraiser said:
Sorry if it was listed somewhere in the thread, maybe I missed it?

What all is included in the engine kit 04111-66036?

All I can tell is from looking at pictures online: HG, valve cover gasket, intake manifold gaskets, exhaust manifold gaskets, oil cooler gaskets, and the rest of the parts are too small for me to eyeball from the pictures.
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112011.gif


9K miles on the new 1FZ-FE and 5 oil changes later, I'd say it's fully broken in.

No lights. Zero oil consumption. No leaks I can see. Picked up power since my last update at 3K based on a recent LA-Seattle-LA road trip. Up the Grapevine Southbound at 80mph+. Can set cruise at 85mph pushing MT 37s keeping up with them modern buggies on I-5. I can think I can hit 100mph.

Performs like a new Toyota engine should. Enjoy yours!
 
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Awesome! Congratulations!

My 1fz refresh is running great, I received my ARB snorkel today, my stomach hurts and anticipation of drilling all those holes :hillbilly:

Looking forward to landing a short block, head, and cams to begin the "new 1fz" project.
 
Heckraiser said:
Sorry if it was listed somewhere in the thread, maybe I missed it?

What all is included in the engine kit 04111-66036?

All I can tell is from looking at pictures online: HG, valve cover gasket, intake manifold gaskets, exhaust manifold gaskets, oil cooler gaskets, and the rest of the parts are too small for me to eyeball from the pictures.
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absolute-wits-end.com

80 Series 1FZ Complete Head Gasket Kit

80 Series 1FZ Complete Head Gasket Kit (HGK-1FZ)
absolute-wits-end.com absolute-wits-end.com

@NLXTACY has everything you need in a kit. The photos are better as well.
 
Yes, I'm looking at the Wits' End packages as well as dealer parts. Right now I'm just trying to figure out what is included in the Toyota part# and what might be missing.

So, again, just going off the picture, 04111-66036 I see:
intake manifold gaskets, exhaust manifold gaskets, tb gasket, HG, oil cooler gasket, valve cover gasket, water pump gasket, valve stem seals, fuel line orings, injector orings, front main, rear main, dipstick oring, and I can't really tell what else I'm looking at.

Also looks like it does not include:
spark plug tube seals, studs/nuts. Can anyone confirm?

Do the spark plug tube seals need to be replaced any time the valve cover comes off? I did mine maybe 20-25k ago.
 
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