1996 Black FZJ80 with lockers 190k mi - barn find

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Pippylongsausage said:
Also, I have a bunch of rust 911 rust remover if you need it.
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Tank is completely drained and the inlet and breather tubes on the top back side are disconnected. I also removed the lines that run to the rear that are attached to each tank strap. Easiest on me (and the tank) is to drop the rear shaft...which looks really simple and the angle will allow me to tilt the shaft Perfectly off to the side. If afraid I’m going to wreck the tank otherwise...
 
bburton said:
Tank is completely drained and the inlet and breather tubes on the top back side are disconnected. I also removed the lines that run to the rear that are attached to each tank strap. Easiest on me (and the tank) is to drop the rear shaft...which looks really simple and the angle will allow me to tilt the shaft Perfectly off to the side. If afraid I’m going to wreck the tank otherwise...
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If you do unhook the rear driveshaft, be sure to mark both flanges so it goes back together like it was and isn’t out of phase.
 
Saito said:
If you do unhook the rear driveshaft, be sure to mark both flanges so it goes back together like it was and isn’t out of phase.
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Flange to flange does not matter.

Phase only relates to the front and rear yoke on a DS.



OP:

Just make sure to BLOCK and CHOCK your wheels if you pull the DS. so it doesn't roll over you!
 
And set the emergency brake tight. Fastest I've moved in a couple of decades was when my truck started to roll with me under it (hooking up the transmission linkage it popped into neutral).
 
Kernal said:
And set the emergency brake tight. Fastest I've moved in a couple of decades was when my truck started to roll with me under it (hooking up the transmission linkage it popped into neutral).
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^^^

Hah, did much the same thing working on my truck at the time, but I was in my mid-twenties back then. Never knew I could 'slither' like a snake...but I was damn sure getting out from underneath that thing. :)
 
Got the gas tank out by removing the drive shaft. Tank is getting cleaned and the inside coated for $150 which is way cheaper than a new tank. 👍
 
Very nice! You may have already read that when the charcoal canisters go bad sometimes a lot of pressure builds up in the tank and cracks the top of the tank. Your canister is likely still good, but while the tank is out, would be good to make sure you don't have anything forming on the top. easier to fix this way.
 
Next question - trying to get this truck baselined - when opening the radiator cap the inside of the radiator looks spotless with no buildup that I can see and inside metal is nice and shiny. I drained the fluid and it’s dark red...assuming it’s the original Toyota long lasting fluid.

Any recommendations on if I should still get the tank cleaned out by the radiator shop or just go with what looks to be a clean radiator? I’m shocked there was no buildup with how long the truck sat...I guess the red fluid works wonders by not corroding the inside of the radiator. The truck sat probably 10 years.

I swapped out the thermostat, will change hoses, drain radiator fluid from block, get a new radiator cap, etc. I’m doing the oil pump seal and other seal while I’ve got stuff pulled out. So much nicer working on this LC than my ‘87 Jag...
 
I am not sure i would trust the waterpump sitting that long, but sitting or not, hoses are likely all due for a change, including heater hoses, even the pesky one and the little hoses all around the intake manifold. For mine I ran just straight distilled water through it for a little while and a few heat cycles before starting to swap things out. Then with new hoses, pump and tstat and radiator put in the new toyota red.

Some people have run some flushing products with the heater valve full open to clean out the heater core as well. I have no experience doing that so I don't want to suggest it.
 
bburton said:
Got the gas tank out by removing the drive shaft. Tank is getting cleaned and the inside coated for $150 which is way cheaper than a new tank. 👍
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Sorry to burst your bubble, but coating the inside of a fuel tank is a bad idea.

Many try to say it's great, however, I have seen cheap coatings through very expensive coatings fail withing 5 years. NO ONE I ever talk to has had long term success with it.

And I drive a Studebaker. Lots of experience in that club with it and it never works.

Get a good used tank.
 
I went down the coating rabbit hole as well and ultimately decided not to do it. The tank has to be perfectly clean for the coating to bond properly and it’s nearly impossible to get these huge tanks that clean with all the baffles inside. Just a rust treatment and keeping it full should be enough.
 
I bought a good clean used tank from @slow95z . Way less than new, not cracked, and very clean inside.
 
I would run some thermocure in the radiator for atleast a week. I would even drop the gas tank and run it halfway full with thermocure and then flip the tank for another week with the thermocure. It will come out spotless. I've done this to several cruisers and even my old 1978 Suzuki gas tank and the out come is amazing.
 
GOTLOCKED96 said:
Any updates?
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Work in progress...but good progress for a someone with a very busy day job 😀

-rubbed out a lot of the paint and there is a shine coming thru. Will focus on that later. The driver door is rusty because it was replaced after a deer collided with the side and the body shop did a terrible paint job on the new door.

-Radiator ended up being very nice so did not need to clean or change. That Toyota red is definitely super long lasting. Cleaned out cooler line on radiator where a pretty good size glob of gray stuff came out...seems common from reading here.

-Put on new hoses

-Replaced both idler pulleys

-Replaced the 3 belts

-front crank seal replaced - had to buy a few hundred in tools including OTRAMM crank bolt tool, harbor freight torque wrench 30mm socket, etc. a real involved process but cool to see how it all works.

-oil pump seal done

-oil and oil filter done

-plugs, wires, cap and rotor done

-gas tank out and back from cleaning and linIng. Have new straps to put in. New fuel pump cluster is assembled and waiting to go back in.

-fuel filter out and line to tank cleaned - working on that today with hopes of getting all lines cleaned and gas tank back in along with fuel filter.

-hoping the fuel system north of the fuel filter is working- not looking forward to fuel injectors but will do it if needed...

- brakes need help so that’s next.
 
That is good progress! congrats you are taking care of all the things that everyone else has to do to baseline. I am also pretty busy, but be sure to reach out if you need a hand on anything.
 
clx16 said:
That is good progress! congrats you are taking care of all the things that everyone else has to do to baseline. I am also pretty busy, but be sure to reach out if you need a hand on anything.
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All day effort today...only the gas tank and fuel pump left to go for baseline. Pcv valve and grommet was easier than I thought with only very tiny hardened grommet pieces going down into the valve cover 😰. Thanks for your offer but I never really know when I’m able to work on it 🤷🏻‍♂️
 
Haha and I never know if i am going to be available. I have stuff to do on my taco and 80, but the GF just got a 100 and a sequoia and have been cranking things out on those too. I also work a lot of long hours. but if the stars align and you just need help let me know since I am not far from you.
 
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