1996 Black FZJ80 with lockers 190k mi - barn find

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May 26, 2020
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atlanta
Also, I have a bunch of rust 911 rust remover if you need it.
Tank is completely drained and the inlet and breather tubes on the top back side are disconnected. I also removed the lines that run to the rear that are attached to each tank strap. Easiest on me (and the tank) is to drop the rear shaft...which looks really simple and the angle will allow me to tilt the shaft Perfectly off to the side. If afraid I’m going to wreck the tank otherwise...
 
Joined
Feb 15, 2017
Messages
262
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Worland, WY
Tank is completely drained and the inlet and breather tubes on the top back side are disconnected. I also removed the lines that run to the rear that are attached to each tank strap. Easiest on me (and the tank) is to drop the rear shaft...which looks really simple and the angle will allow me to tilt the shaft Perfectly off to the side. If afraid I’m going to wreck the tank otherwise...
If you do unhook the rear driveshaft, be sure to mark both flanges so it goes back together like it was and isn’t out of phase.
 
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Dec 10, 2007
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7,022
 
 
And set the emergency brake tight. Fastest I've moved in a couple of decades was when my truck started to roll with me under it (hooking up the transmission linkage it popped into neutral).
 

flintknapper

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May 22, 2004
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Deep East Texas
 
 
 
And set the emergency brake tight. Fastest I've moved in a couple of decades was when my truck started to roll with me under it (hooking up the transmission linkage it popped into neutral).

^^^

Hah, did much the same thing working on my truck at the time, but I was in my mid-twenties back then. Never knew I could 'slither' like a snake...but I was damn sure getting out from underneath that thing. :)
 
Joined
May 26, 2020
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atlanta
Got the gas tank out by removing the drive shaft. Tank is getting cleaned and the inside coated for $150 which is way cheaper than a new tank. 👍
 

clx16

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Oct 26, 2017
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Alpharetta GA
Very nice! You may have already read that when the charcoal canisters go bad sometimes a lot of pressure builds up in the tank and cracks the top of the tank. Your canister is likely still good, but while the tank is out, would be good to make sure you don't have anything forming on the top. easier to fix this way.
 
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May 26, 2020
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atlanta
Next question - trying to get this truck baselined - when opening the radiator cap the inside of the radiator looks spotless with no buildup that I can see and inside metal is nice and shiny. I drained the fluid and it’s dark red...assuming it’s the original Toyota long lasting fluid.

Any recommendations on if I should still get the tank cleaned out by the radiator shop or just go with what looks to be a clean radiator? I’m shocked there was no buildup with how long the truck sat...I guess the red fluid works wonders by not corroding the inside of the radiator. The truck sat probably 10 years.

I swapped out the thermostat, will change hoses, drain radiator fluid from block, get a new radiator cap, etc. I’m doing the oil pump seal and other seal while I’ve got stuff pulled out. So much nicer working on this LC than my ‘87 Jag...
 

clx16

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Oct 26, 2017
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Alpharetta GA
I am not sure i would trust the waterpump sitting that long, but sitting or not, hoses are likely all due for a change, including heater hoses, even the pesky one and the little hoses all around the intake manifold. For mine I ran just straight distilled water through it for a little while and a few heat cycles before starting to swap things out. Then with new hoses, pump and tstat and radiator put in the new toyota red.

Some people have run some flushing products with the heater valve full open to clean out the heater core as well. I have no experience doing that so I don't want to suggest it.
 

MoJ

Moderator
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Oct 24, 2003
Messages
4,035
 
 
 
Flush like OCD mad. Replace all coolant hoses, heater valve, thermostat, water pump, and o rings. If the radiator is original replace it as well. Toyota radiator preferred.

 
Joined
Nov 9, 2012
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Location
Olathe, KS, USA
 
Got the gas tank out by removing the drive shaft. Tank is getting cleaned and the inside coated for $150 which is way cheaper than a new tank. 👍
Sorry to burst your bubble, but coating the inside of a fuel tank is a bad idea.

Many try to say it's great, however, I have seen cheap coatings through very expensive coatings fail withing 5 years. NO ONE I ever talk to has had long term success with it.

And I drive a Studebaker. Lots of experience in that club with it and it never works.

Get a good used tank.
 
Joined
Sep 28, 2014
Messages
477
Location
Atlanta
 
I went down the coating rabbit hole as well and ultimately decided not to do it. The tank has to be perfectly clean for the coating to bond properly and it’s nearly impossible to get these huge tanks that clean with all the baffles inside. Just a rust treatment and keeping it full should be enough.
 
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