1996 Black FZJ80 with lockers 190k mi - barn find

Joined
May 26, 2020
Messages
27
Location
atlanta
A quick intro to what appears to be a very informative and entertaining LC site. Just purchased a 1996 80 series LC with lockers from a doctor's farm in central Georgia. Had it flat bed towed to my home north of Atlanta over the weekend. The truck has been sitting in a field (next to his barn) at his farm for at least 10 years. Just started cleanup and am getting into an engine base line by ordering parts today from the local Toyota dealer. The color is factory black with those ever so popular gold emblems and pin stripes. On the lockers - I have the switch to the left of the steering wheel. However, the front driver door was replaced from where a deer ran into it (new door, new paint) and the vin tag was not carried over from the old door...so no vin tag but confirmed by looking for the actuator and the dealer confirmed the truck has lockers...waiting to see if they work...and what else works or does not work after sitting so long.

Questions to the group (sorry for so many :) ):

1-The thick burl wood lacquer coat is peeling from the heat on almost every burl wood piece in the truck. Is there an easy way to get the burl wood trim pieces removed from the underlying plastic? Any other approaches to replacing the burl that have worked for others?

2-the paint and windows has what looks like small black tree sap particles all over (totally coated). The windows clean up with elbow grease but the paint wont clean (yet). Any ideas on best way to remove the tree sap without killing the paint. I tried goo remover in a small spot but did not work. I have a buffer but did not want to do that until I tried others things to remove sap.

Thanks !

bburton
 
Last edited:

george.arnold

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Joined
Dec 2, 2006
Messages
129
Location
Tyler, TX
 
 
A quick into to what appears to be a very informative and entertaining LC site. Just purchased a 1996 80 series LC with lockers from a doctor's farm in central Georgia. Had it flat bed towed to my home north of Atlanta over the weekend. The truck has been sitting in a field (next to his barn) at his farm for at least 10 years. Just started cleanup and am getting into an engine base line by ordering parts today from the local Toyota dealer. The color is factory black with those ever so popular gold emblems and pin stripes. On the lockers - I have the switch to the left of the steering wheel. However, the front driver door was replaced from where a deer ran into it (new door, new paint) and the vin tag was not carried over from the old door...so no vin tag but confirmed by looking for the actuator and the dealer confirmed the truck has lockers...waiting to see if they work...and what else works or does not work after sitting so long.

Questions to the group (sorry for so many :) ):

1-The thick burl wood lacquer coat is peeling from the heat on almost every burl wood piece in the truck. Is there an easy way to get the burl wood trim pieces removed from the underlying plastic? Any other approaches to replacing the burl that have worked for others?

2-the paint and windows has what looks like small black tree sap particles all over (totally coated). The windows clean up with elbow grease but the paint wont clean (yet). Any ideas on best way to remove the tree sap without killing the paint. I tried goo remover in a small spot but did not work. I have a buffer but did not want to do that until I tried others things to remove sap.

Thanks !

bburton
Congrats on the find!

For the paint I would recommend a fallout remover. Spray on, let it work, then power wash off. Then I’d get after it with a steamer and some rags. Once you get down to the paint surface you can go in with a clay bar to remove anything that is embedded in the paint layer. It is a process but it will work.
 
Joined
May 26, 2020
Messages
27
Location
atlanta
Congrats on the find!

For the paint I would recommend a fallout remover. Spray on, let it work, then power wash off. Then I’d get after it with a steamer and some rags. Once you get down to the paint surface you can go in with a clay bar to remove anything that is embedded in the paint layer. It is a process but it will work.
Tar and bug remover was a bust but meguiars ultimate compound I had buried in my garage did work...but I’ll need a gallon or more to get the paint to shine...ugh.

B9C0639D-B01B-4495-90DF-B4C21F1896C0.jpeg
 

musthave

Desert Dune Offroad
Supporting Vendor
Joined
Sep 4, 2013
Messages
4,514
Location
St. Pete, Florida
 
A quick intro to what appears to be a very informative and entertaining LC site. Just purchased a 1996 80 series LC with lockers from a doctor's farm in central Georgia. Had it flat bed towed to my home north of Atlanta over the weekend. The truck has been sitting in a field (next to his barn) at his farm for at least 10 years. Just started cleanup and am getting into an engine base line by ordering parts today from the local Toyota dealer. The color is factory black with those ever so popular gold emblems and pin stripes. On the lockers - I have the switch to the left of the steering wheel. However, the front driver door was replaced from where a deer ran into it (new door, new paint) and the vin tag was not carried over from the old door...so no vin tag but confirmed by looking for the actuator and the dealer confirmed the truck has lockers...waiting to see if they work...and what else works or does not work after sitting so long.

Questions to the group (sorry for so many :) ):

1-The thick burl wood lacquer coat is peeling from the heat on almost every burl wood piece in the truck. Is there an easy way to get the burl wood trim pieces removed from the underlying plastic? Any other approaches to replacing the burl that have worked for others?

2-the paint and windows has what looks like small black tree sap particles all over (totally coated). The windows clean up with elbow grease but the paint wont clean (yet). Any ideas on best way to remove the tree sap without killing the paint. I tried goo remover in a small spot but did not work. I have a buffer but did not want to do that until I tried others things to remove sap.

Thanks !

bburton
Welcome! Great find!
 
Joined
Aug 10, 2011
Messages
1,796
Location
Lawrenceville GA
 
I'm in lawrenceville where in N ATL are you?

Paint issues I can't help ya....

The wood "accents" I removed last summer. Basically I got some plastic trim removers which are basically plastic scrapers (to not scratch the plastic underneath). I waited for a super hot summer day and parked with all the windows up and the sunroof closed but with the shade open. It gets super hot inside and I left it parked in the sun all day while I was at work. When I got home I used the trim tool to get the corner started and just slowly worked them off. The center piece where the 4 HNL shifter got messed up but I covered it with black vinyl wrap. Just go slow and if you have a heat gun that might help too.

Post some pico's of the new ride when ya can.

If ya want new try here Wood dash Trim Kits 95-97 [1995-1997 FZJ80] - $199.00 : CruiserParts.net, Toyota Landcruiser Parts
 
Joined
May 26, 2005
Messages
7,628
Location
Phoenix
 
 
 
FWIW I used to paint vehicles. Automotive paint (acrylic enamel) is surprisingly durable and won't be damaged by most solvents. I'd try paint thinner (mineral spirits), alcohol, laquer thinner, and even acetone, in that order. The pinstripe probably will not be as durable. If the paint is oxidized then it may be more susceptible to damage from solvents. I'd start with paint thinner on a small test area, and let it soak a bit.
 
Joined
Sep 15, 2016
Messages
533
Location
Chattanooga, TN
Congrats on the new 80, sounds like a fun project.

1-The thick burl wood lacquer coat is peeling from the heat on almost every burl wood piece in the truck. Is there an easy way to get the burl wood trim pieces removed from the underlying plastic? Any other approaches to replacing the burl that have worked for others?

I found the wood veneer to be easy to remove using a touch of heat and a plastic panel/trim removal tool. I basically used the end of the tool as a wedge and didn't have to pry, I simply slid it under to lift up the old veneer. I believe that I used denatured alcohol to remove the residual goo but don't know for certain. Basically use the least aggressive solvent that you can, or just use elbow grease, to remove the adhesive goo. Keep in mind that some solvents will dry out the plastic, melt layers of it off (Acetone) or remove lettering/printing on buttons, etc. so tread lightly.​


2-the paint and windows has what looks like small black tree sap particles all over (totally coated). The windows clean up with elbow grease but the paint wont clean (yet). Any ideas on best way to remove the tree sap without killing the paint. I tried goo remover in a small spot but did not work. I have a buffer but did not want to do that until I tried others things to remove sap.

Every case is different so you'll have to experiment but I often try prolonged soaking with water as a first step to removing sap/similar. You can go out with a soft brush and rag after an extended rainy period to see if the layer is softened up and can be washed off more easily with typical cleaners. You could also put a wet towel over one spot for a while, spraying it periodically to keep it wet, and then test that spot. Sometimes natural residues will soften up with water alone and make removal without paint damage easier. Good luck getting it all off, hopefully it's helped prevent some UV damage :)
 
Last edited:

MoJ

Moderator
Joined
Oct 24, 2003
Messages
4,056
 
 
 
Nice find. For the paint try Simple Green concentrate mixed 50/50 with water. Let it sit 20 minutes and then scrub with a soft sponge. You can also try the wheel cleaner available at some manual car washes.
 
Joined
May 26, 2020
Messages
27
Location
atlanta
I'm in lawrenceville where in N ATL are you?

Paint issues I can't help ya....

The wood "accents" I removed last summer. Basically I got some plastic trim removers which are basically plastic scrapers (to not scratch the plastic underneath). I waited for a super hot summer day and parked with all the windows up and the sunroof closed but with the shade open. It gets super hot inside and I left it parked in the sun all day while I was at work. When I got home I used the trim tool to get the corner started and just slowly worked them off. The center piece where the 4 HNL shifter got messed up but I covered it with black vinyl wrap. Just go slow and if you have a heat gun that might help too.

Post some pico's of the new ride when ya can.

If ya want new try here Wood dash Trim Kits 95-97 [1995-1997 FZJ80] - $199.00 : CruiserParts.net, Toyota Landcruiser Parts
I’m in the Ball Ground area
 

SUMMIT CRUISERS

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Joined
Mar 25, 2005
Messages
2,098
Location
Edmond, Oklahoma
 
 
 
Awesome find. For tree sap removal use isopropyl “rubbing” alcohol. Only product I ever found that works quickly on tree sap. Will not hurt paint either.
One more, probably want to drain your tank and remove the fuel pump cover underneath the second row seat. Need to remove fuel pump assembly and inspect/clean tank. If ethanol fuel was last purchased, then rust in the tank most likely will be an issue.
 

ScubaSteve80

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Joined
May 21, 2019
Messages
353
Location
Birmingham, AL
I would suggest checking out Cruiser Outfitters for parts. They have an incredible knowledge of 80 series and sale a lot of kits you will need as you tackle this project. They are located in Utah but shipping is quick and they will answer any questions you might have. You have to call them to place an order because they want to make sure they talk to you and give you the correct parts. Good luck with the project!
 

clx16

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Joined
Oct 26, 2017
Messages
774
Location
Alpharetta GA
I saw that at auction. Gf tried to get me to bid on it but i had a feeling someone else needed it. I am not far from you near freehome. Glad you picked it up and glad you are on mud. There are plenty of people here who can help you prep before you try to start it. I am happy to help as time permits.
 
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