1992 FJ80 6.0 Vortec Engine Swap
- Thread starter clanlino
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- #22
Hahaha.... I know
890man
SILVER Star
Ummmm........... I NEED one of these. 
That's a nice platform to start with. 
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- #26
Well... that is what I was told by the wrecking yard... however I might had come from a different vehicle, but I am possitive that is tthe 4L60E...
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- #27
I just got of the phone with Howell, and it seems that they will be shipping my new harness and computer next week 
We were hoping to get started this weekend... but on the other hand, it seems that I got the 4.0 motor sold
I still have transmission for sale if anyone needs one. I paid $2,600 with labor... but would let it go for $1,250 (only 37k miles on it)
The harness with all the necessary parts for smog + the computer and the shipping cost me $1,200
Their website is below in case anyone is looking into doing the conversion on their own:
http://howellefi.com
We were hoping to get started this weekend... but on the other hand, it seems that I got the 4.0 motor sold
I still have transmission for sale if anyone needs one. I paid $2,600 with labor... but would let it go for $1,250 (only 37k miles on it)
The harness with all the necessary parts for smog + the computer and the shipping cost me $1,200
Their website is below in case anyone is looking into doing the conversion on their own:
http://howellefi.com
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Yeah more then likely... Still a good auto. I would throw in a transgo shift kit while your at it too
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- #29
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- #30
Where could I find one and do you know the part number??
Thank you for the info Rock!
I would verify the VIN on the engine before the install. If the engine has the 4l80E it might possibly be from a 3/4 ton HD truck and would not pass BAR inspection.
Not trying to be a downer, but i would hate to see issues with the BAR
LQ4 or LQ9?
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I just got of the phone with Howell, and it seems that they will be shipping my new harness and computer next week
We were hoping to get started this weekend... but on the other hand, it seems that I got the 4.0 motor sold
I still have transmission for sale if anyone needs one. I paid $2,600 with labor... but would let it go for $1,250 (only 37k miles on it)
The harness with all the necessary parts for smog + the computer and the shipping cost me $1,200
Their website is below in case anyone is looking into doing the conversion on their own:
http://howellefi.com
Is this the harness you bought? http://howellefi.com/gen-iii-vortec...w-4l60e-4l80e-transmission-drive-by-wire.html
Curious as to why you need the aftermarket harness. Dumb question here but can't you use the harness that came with the PCM? Seems like that harness would control both the engine and trans. Or, are you mixing and matching trans and engine that necessitated the Howell harness?
- Thread starter
- #33
The Howell harness will make it into a simple plug and play install onto the LCs' connections.
I appreciate the info about the VIN and would look into it.
I am posting a short video so you guys can see the truck before the swap.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I9Yv5ySwi7k&feature=youtube_gdata_player
I love my Australian license plate
I appreciate the info about the VIN and would look into it.
I am posting a short video so you guys can see the truck before the swap.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I9Yv5ySwi7k&feature=youtube_gdata_player
I love my Australian license plate
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Does the harness you used come with the IH1 and IH2 connectors for the Toyota harness? Another great harness is through PSI Conversions great product and about 200 less in price.
The Howell harness will make it into a simple plug and play install onto the LCs' connections.
I appreciate the info about the VIN and would look into it.
I am posting a short video so you guys can see the truck before the swap.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I9Yv5ySwi7k&feature=youtube_gdata_player
I live my Australian license plate
not really - that harness will make the motor and trans run but it's not going to make the connections to the dash, ac, cruise, ect. All of that stuff connects through the IH1 and IH2 connectors and as far as I know, Marks of Australia is the only game for true plug and play. The howell kit is stand alone (and so is the stock gm harness with the right mods).
there's money to be made if someone can come up with a true LSx to 80 series plug and play harness. i wish i had the time to do it.
Ok, so this harness doesn't interface with the Toyota harness. So, you're getting a slimmed down harness vs grabbing a GM harness and deleting the wires/pins yourself. Does this sound about correct?
pretty much.
the problem with a lot of the aftermarket harnesses is that they are not all emissions compliant. Reworking the stock harness let's you keep everything that's need to pass emissions. If I recall, I did not removed a lot of wires from re-worked harness because what would have been removed was tied to emissions.
if there were a source for the IH1 and IH2 engine side harness connectors, then one could modify a stock Gm harness to be mostly plug and play. But there's still going to be some curcuits that are external to the vortec harness. For instance, the tach signal to the dash is a challenge because the connection for it is made near where the stock 1FZ coil used to sit. The brake circuit is also external because a relay is used to provide the correct signal to tell the PCM when the brakes are applied (12v signal is cut when brakes are applied). Also, let's not forget about the CDL circuit. It's buried into portions of the 1FZ engine and trans harness so it must be removed from that harness and rebuilt into a new harness to interface with the dash connection. ABS is all by itself, but again it's wires are also within the 1FZ harness.
One has to have a thorough understanding of the toyota EWD and be able to full dissect the 1FZ harness so that what isn't needed is trashed. Some where in my swap thread I posted a picture of the harness reworking. it took me a week to get it sorted out and even then I still messed up the CDL circuit and had to go back in to fix it. The axle lockers will not work without the CDL wired correctly.
In retrospect, I am pretty proud of myself in being able to complete such a swap on my own, in my garage with no outside help (other than information gathered from the internet). My goal was for the truck to appear to be completely stock from the outside, or when sitting in the driver's seat, and also to be fully emissions compliant. the only difference perceived would be a slightly different engine sound, and a whole lot more power on tap.
I have done other engine swaps, but nothing like the complexity of this one.
Thanks for the explanation Rockrod and that's the impression I was under as well. So, I fail to see the point of ordering such an expensive engine harness from anyone if you can source the harness with your engine/PCM.
Simple... Its new and just requires minimal interfacing with the ih1 and 2 connectors to run. Which on the 96-97 all that is needed to kick the car over is running key on hot wire to the harness fuse block and ignition crank wire to the starter. Well that's why I bought a new harness but that's just me.. As previously mentioned you need to know the functionality and understanding of the EWD prior to jumping in these if your doing it yourself. Any updates on your build?
