1989 FJ62 Build in LA

dahlmaker · Jan 7, 2016

Benjaman said:
Looks good. I'd change the tranny fluid to a good Synthetic asap. Also add a cooler.

The current ATF is a nice cherry red. Should I still change it?

dahlmaker · Jan 28, 2016

So on a trip to Las Vegas last weekend I had the tranny light go on. It was the long hill just past Baker. I was going so slow but the RPMs were too low and it hadn't locked up. Like a dummy I just let it run and finally pulled over at Cima road. I got gas and when I fired it up again the light was off. I was freaked out about this and have been babying the tranny ever since. Downshifting to third on the freeway on any hills.

I've picked up a Hayden 879 cooler and will install this week. I will also pull the pan and do a Rodney flush. I've only had the truck for one month now and don't want to incur any the cost of a new tranny before I even get a chance to get tires or a lift on it!

Three days ago I had a weird incident in which I was climbing a slight hill and then at the top it flattened out for a bit and there was a stoplight. I hit the brakes but the transmission was still locked up and the RPMs stayed at about 1500-2000 for a few seconds until the light changed and then it went back down after I stomped on the accelerator. It hasn't happened since but it was definitely disconcerting. Almost like the accelerator was stuck. I've got some silicone lubricant I was going to spray on the kickdown cable and throttle. I assume that should fix the issue? Any other recommendations let me know. Thanks!

On a positive note I fixed the horn with the .22 casing trick. Works great now!

Here are some pics from some backroad driving out in Sandy Valley, Nevada.

cruisermatt · Jan 28, 2016

I want a white FJ62 so bad. Nice rig.

dahlmaker · Jan 28, 2016

cruisermatt said:
I want a white FJ62 so bad. Nice rig.

Thanks - Now that I've got white and I see all these other great colored rigs on here I'm wish it weren't white. It does need a paint job as it's lost it's luster. But that's way down the line.

dahlmaker · Feb 3, 2016

I've been looking at the BFG KO2 and some 285 75 R16 KOs just came available from a friend for $800 for 5. He says they were barely used but they've got to be at least 2 years old now. Is that a good deal for a tire a few years old? Tread looks good. It would save me a lot instead of going new and I'm not trying to break the bank on my build right now.

dahlmaker · Mar 23, 2016

I'm an editor at Popular Mechanics and I recently did a post on my FJ62 build. Got to mention a few vendors I plan on using and my general love for wheelin' and Land Cruisers. Thanks to @theron and @MBurroughs for lending me their photos.

I'm Rebuilding My Dream Car, a Beat-Up Land Cruiser

tgadd · Mar 23, 2016

I would look at the manufacturer date on the KOs. I'm pretty sure the KO2 style came out in 2014 so the ones your friend has must be older than 2 years.

dahlmaker · Jun 6, 2016

Just a quick update - I ended up going with the wheels and tires that didn't have the proper backspacing. I had to grind down a bit on the tie-rod end to make them fit, but they have ended up still rubbing. I regret messing with my tie rods and will be replacing them which they need anyway as they are worn out. I've installed 1.5" spacers which gives the wheels plenty of clearance, but now when the make a hard turn right, the left wheel rubs on the inner fender. My stock suspension is totally flat and I've been in need of a OME lift for awhile so this is just another reason why.

I'm also just ready to throw the towel in on these wheels 16" Trackers and go with black steelies from 4WheelParts that I know will fit. I still want the lift but then I won't need spacers. A lift should fix my problem now, but it's frustrating fixing issues that are self-inflicted.

dahlmaker · Feb 23, 2018

So after two years in sunny and dry LA, rust issues have started appearing and it's progressing much faster than I realized. The area around my rear window has rust that has spread the most. I've never removed the rear window. It seems daunting. My local body shop wanted more money than I wanted to spend, so I figured I would try to tackle it myself. They mentioned just removing the window and putting some stop rust on it, but it seems I should do a bit more, especially if I am removing the window.

For the other areas I would do the same. I haven't found a good step by step on the site to remove a rear window as well as for cleaning up surface rust. If anyone has done this in the past and can point me in the right direction I'd appreciate it. Thank you.