I've read through several old threads and gone through troubleshooting in the manual. So, coming here for thoughts and suggestions...
1988 FJ62 with original 3FE (212K miles) and recently rebuilt A440F.
Symptom: If you shift from P or N to R or D when it's cold, it'll die every time.
Cold idle: 1100 RPM
Warm idle: 800 RPM
I can put the transfer case in low range, and it doesn't die when shifting into gear (though, the RPMs do drop, just not enough to kill it). I can drive it in low range up my 300' drive, shift it back into high range, and then, I'm able to shift to D and take it out on the road (though it still almost dies when shifted into gear). After driving for a few minutes, everything is normal (better than normal - drives and pulls great). So, it's like it needs to get the fluid flowing before it behaves normally?
It's been doing this since reinstalling the transmission after transmission and torque converter rebuild. It acts like a transmission with electric lock-up solenoids that are locked all the time (i.e., when you shift into gear, the converter is locked and there isn't enough torque/RPM to overcome the sudden load and it dies). However, if I understand correctly, the lock-up on it is all fluid/hydraulic. Transmission builder is confident everything is as good or better than new with the transmission and torque converter. They suspected a vacuum leak as the culprit. This makes sense (Normally, the ECU would adjust to rich mixture until the engine warms up. If there's unaccounted-for air downstream of the MAF reading, we'd have a lean condition resulting in low power/torque.) But, I haven't been able to find a vacuum leak. Builder stands behind their work and assures me they'll make it right if it tuns out to be an issue internal to the transmission or converter.
Things I've done trying to remedy:
1. Adjusted valves and timing. Engine is running stronger/quieter than it has since I've owned it.
2. Installed a new TPS and new O2 sensors
3. Replaced intake hose between airbox/MAF and intake with new from CityRacer.
4. Replaced MAF with cleaned/tested unit from my parts rig.
5. Replaced almost all vacuum lines (haven't replaced the hoses that go to the 4wd solenoids, nor the brake booster hoses and check valve - these seem to be in good shape).
6. Even though I followed the factory service manual to the letter when refilling the torque converter and transmission with ATF after install, when I checked it yesterday (~500 miles after reinstall), it was showing about 1 qt. OVERFILL. I removed fluid until the warm level was dead on the upper warm notch on the stick.
I haven't tested anything after doing #6 (did that yesterday evening and haven't started the truck this morning). Would the transmission being a ~1 qt. overfilled cause my symptoms? If not, any suggestions on what to check next? Had a difficult time getting the throttle cable adjusted (it's apparently an aftermarket cable - doesn't have the little stopper on the cable). But, it seems to be adjusted good, now (after everything warms up, it shifts smooth and kicks down a gear when you'd expect it to). I do plan to replace both the accelerator cable and throttle cable soon as they're both showing wear.
This isn't a huge issue and isn't keeping me from using the truck (we took it on a camping trip this past week - just had to make sure everything was good an warm before driving). But, I definitely want to get it resolved. It does seem to be affecting fuel mileage (got around 14/15 mpg on the camping trip that included 50/50 highway and gravel roads, doing 55-65 on the highway and 15-25 on the gravel roads. But, maybe 14-15 mpg is normal? I really haven't paid much attention to fuel consumption since owning it (I'd just fill it up when needed).
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
1988 FJ62 with original 3FE (212K miles) and recently rebuilt A440F.
Symptom: If you shift from P or N to R or D when it's cold, it'll die every time.
Cold idle: 1100 RPM
Warm idle: 800 RPM
I can put the transfer case in low range, and it doesn't die when shifting into gear (though, the RPMs do drop, just not enough to kill it). I can drive it in low range up my 300' drive, shift it back into high range, and then, I'm able to shift to D and take it out on the road (though it still almost dies when shifted into gear). After driving for a few minutes, everything is normal (better than normal - drives and pulls great). So, it's like it needs to get the fluid flowing before it behaves normally?
It's been doing this since reinstalling the transmission after transmission and torque converter rebuild. It acts like a transmission with electric lock-up solenoids that are locked all the time (i.e., when you shift into gear, the converter is locked and there isn't enough torque/RPM to overcome the sudden load and it dies). However, if I understand correctly, the lock-up on it is all fluid/hydraulic. Transmission builder is confident everything is as good or better than new with the transmission and torque converter. They suspected a vacuum leak as the culprit. This makes sense (Normally, the ECU would adjust to rich mixture until the engine warms up. If there's unaccounted-for air downstream of the MAF reading, we'd have a lean condition resulting in low power/torque.) But, I haven't been able to find a vacuum leak. Builder stands behind their work and assures me they'll make it right if it tuns out to be an issue internal to the transmission or converter.
Things I've done trying to remedy:
1. Adjusted valves and timing. Engine is running stronger/quieter than it has since I've owned it.
2. Installed a new TPS and new O2 sensors
3. Replaced intake hose between airbox/MAF and intake with new from CityRacer.
4. Replaced MAF with cleaned/tested unit from my parts rig.
5. Replaced almost all vacuum lines (haven't replaced the hoses that go to the 4wd solenoids, nor the brake booster hoses and check valve - these seem to be in good shape).
6. Even though I followed the factory service manual to the letter when refilling the torque converter and transmission with ATF after install, when I checked it yesterday (~500 miles after reinstall), it was showing about 1 qt. OVERFILL. I removed fluid until the warm level was dead on the upper warm notch on the stick.
I haven't tested anything after doing #6 (did that yesterday evening and haven't started the truck this morning). Would the transmission being a ~1 qt. overfilled cause my symptoms? If not, any suggestions on what to check next? Had a difficult time getting the throttle cable adjusted (it's apparently an aftermarket cable - doesn't have the little stopper on the cable). But, it seems to be adjusted good, now (after everything warms up, it shifts smooth and kicks down a gear when you'd expect it to). I do plan to replace both the accelerator cable and throttle cable soon as they're both showing wear.
This isn't a huge issue and isn't keeping me from using the truck (we took it on a camping trip this past week - just had to make sure everything was good an warm before driving). But, I definitely want to get it resolved. It does seem to be affecting fuel mileage (got around 14/15 mpg on the camping trip that included 50/50 highway and gravel roads, doing 55-65 on the highway and 15-25 on the gravel roads. But, maybe 14-15 mpg is normal? I really haven't paid much attention to fuel consumption since owning it (I'd just fill it up when needed).
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
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