Builds 1988 BJ74 “Number 1” (4 Viewers)

[FJBen]

It looks like there are options such as this one, which is flexible by battery type and amperage. Options are not always the best idea for fools like me though.

View attachment 3223825

This is more money, but it’s water proof, on board mounted and and you don’t have to choose any options, allegedly handles agm, standard etc. Fairly idiot proof.

NOCO - 2-Bank 20A On-Board Battery Charger - GEN2 - https://no.co/gen2

Edit: they also have a slightly cheaper 10amp version as well. I think 10amp would be sufficient for what you want. I like the mounting on the vehicle as it’s just like a block heater plug in



PS: is that soft top on yet?

 

[Kaderabek]

It's twice as much MOL but we're not talking super yacht pricing here so fairly negligible in the greater scheme. I'd be shocked if I had room to mount that in my engine bay though. It's tight under there. Was difficult to find a place for an ARB compressor.

And yes, I full embrace that you just called me an idiot.

 

[Kaderabek]

PS: is that soft top on yet?

Good question. Bad answer. I do have an appointment at the Duke Spine Center in March though so perhaps slowly making progress toward that goal.

 

[FJBen]

It's twice as much MOL but we're not talking super yacht pricing here so fairly negligible in the greater scheme. I'd be shocked if I had room to mount that in my engine bay though. It's tight under there. Was difficult to find a place for an ARB compressor.

And yes, I full embrace that you just called me an idiot.

Looks like 10amp is $139 direct, possibly cheaper elsewhere.
I meant idiot as a compliment or I mean ….not that you are an idiot, I mean…

Well I like things that don’t reset or default without power, or can be easily bumped/changed. Maybe my wife is right…I guess I’m an idiot too!

It looks like there is way more room in a 1HZ truck bs bj74.


Bummer about the neck/back. If I were closer I’d head over and help you get that soft top on. Still dealing with neck crap from my wreck and that was just a small accident.

 

[Kaderabek]

I hope that resolves soon. I'll be good eventually and that soft top is going to be great on my truck. Meantime - good advice on the battery tenders. Thanks!

 

[cruiserdan]

Looking at 12V dual bank battery tenders. What's the correct amperage for a 24V 1HZ system?

I have this one. I use it on the BJ74 and my boat.

Amazon product ASIN B08F37P7H3

 

[svsisu]

The NOCO's do the job, and is cheap compared to replacing batteries if your truck is sitting.

 

[Kaderabek]

Stopped by the house for two minutes and peeked at the battery tender. I need to make sure that the battery tender cables to battery #1 are adequately attached (they appear to be at a glance) but I think we may have deduced that battery #1 is dead and battery #2 has come back to life.

I'm betting the engine will now start and I suppose it's possible that battery #1 can be recharged with some driving. It does appear to be faulty though and likely needs to be replaced.

What's the opinion of the group - if I replace one should I replace them both?

(Also I apologize that this thread is pretty well hijacked but I feel like I'm in good company in doing so. This thread is like a campfire on a chilly evening.)

 

[cruiserdan]

#1 is still low (is the indicator pulsing?). #2 is almost up. When fully charged you will get a green-only.

How long has it been hooked up?

 

[Kaderabek]

#1 is still low. #2 is almost up. When fully charged you will get a green-only.

How long has it been hooked up?

Right - and thanks for the advice, by the way. I took it. We're coming up on 24 hours but battery #2 was green after 12 hours but the red lights on too so that's interesting. Battery #1 hasn't budged, which is why I want to take a look at the connections from the battery tender to the battery before I declare the battery dead.

 

[cruiserdan]

If there was a disconnect the first indicator light would not be lit and the power button would be orange, indicating idle (as though you were not using that bank to charge). It could be that that battery was super flat. I'd leave it going for another day and see if more indicators come on.

When the tender is "maintaining" the charge it will periodically cycle between solid green only and the pattern in your photo.

Oh, do you have a center tap in play?

 

[Kaderabek]

That's great information - thanks so much. I ransacked the box the tender came in but there wasn't a manual. I suppose I should have checked with the Googler but heck, I got it hooked up without blowing up the garage so was feeling pretty good about things.

 

[FJBen]

Stopped by the house for two minutes and peeked at the battery tender. I need to make sure that the battery tender cables to battery #1 are adequately attached (they appear to be at a glance) but I think we may have deduced that battery #1 is dead and battery #2 has come back to life.

View attachment 3227513
I'm betting the engine will now start and I suppose it's possible that battery #1 can be recharged with some driving. It does appear to be faulty though and likely needs to be replaced.

What's the opinion of the group - if I replace one should I replace them both?

(Also I apologize that this thread is pretty well hijacked but I feel like I'm in good company in doing so. This thread is like a campfire on a chilly evening.)

I’ve always heard replace the batteries in pairs An older deteriorating battery will pull down the other. Sucks but the joys of 24v.

 

[Kaderabek]

I pretty well figured that was the case - thank you. But stay tuned - the Franken-Battery saga may have news in the morning. Or not.

 

[Kaderabek]

Battery #2 took 14 hours to recharge. Battery #1 took 24 hours MOL. I suspect they'll both need to be replaced but I'll leave them on the battery tender until I can drive it with some consistency and see what happens. Thanks as always for the great advice. Nice to see those green lights anyway.

 

[FJBen]

Battery #2 took 14 hours to recharge. Battery #1 took 24 hours MOL. I suspect they'll both need to be replaced but I'll leave them on the battery tender until I can drive it with some consistency and see what happens. Thanks as always for the great advice. Nice to see those green lights anyway. View attachment 3228160

Worth a try. I wouldn’t trust them for that transcontinental overland trip but for that epic mocha soy latte run…slap on your max-tracks and get going.

 

[cruiserdan]

Battery #2 took 14 hours to recharge. Battery #1 took 24 hours MOL. I suspect they'll both need to be replaced but I'll leave them on the battery tender until I can drive it with some consistency and see what happens. Thanks as always for the great advice. Nice to see those green lights anyway. View attachment 3228160

Was the the battery that took longer the grounded battery or the upper battery?

 

[Kaderabek]

I believe the grounded battery to be the driver side on a LHD HZJ73 - toward the radiator end of the engine bay. That's the battery that charged more quickly.

 

[cruiserdan]

I can't find a good HZJ7x battery diagram. All I can find shows both batteries on the left side. The BJ73 has the lower (or grounded) battery on the right side and the upper (or plus side) battery on the left side. That being said, if there is a 12volt center-tap in place it will draw down the lower battery. I don't know if that may be affecting you.

 

[Kaderabek]

I was told by Peter Brown (who owns a RHD HZJ73) that the RHD batteries are on the same side (I didn't ask which) and the LHD batteries are on opposite sides (which I can confirm). I'd have to do a little closer accounting but that battery is tapped for my winch, ARB compressor, fridge hardwiring and goodness knows how many other things I'm not using enough to justify the cost.

Next (good) question: no, my fridge is not plugged in (or actually currently in the truck).