1981 Pick-up Build (1 Viewer)

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I just did this on my '81 Trekker, it's straight forward.
Watch some YouTube on it.
The gasket and glass are both available new aftermarket.

If you do call in Safelite ect... at least remove the old glass and gasket so you have a chance to clean up the rust and paint the flange.

@Pacer Where did you get your glass for the Trekker? Rock Auto only has one windshield but it has that blue tint. I was hoping for something clear. None of the other online spots seem to have the glass.
 
@Pacer Where did you get your glass for the Trekker? Rock Auto only has one windshield but it has that blue tint. I was hoping for something clear. None of the other online spots seem to have the glass.
Through a local glass installer shop. They were able to get glass with or without super cool blue tint on top. :smokin:

Call around locally. Good luck, cool build!
 
So, does anybody have experience using a helicoil or timesert to repair/replace a differential drain plug? I recently replaced the stock plug with the TG Allen head style which appear to have stripped the threads. They went in smooth but I pulled them because they were loose and leaking after mardicrawl only to discover the stripped threads. The stock plugs won’t go back in.

I’ve read to either chase the threads with a tap or use a timesert as they hold better in a moderate torque application. Looking for a little more feedback before I screw it up worse and have to just weld it up.
 
So, does anybody have experience using a helicoil or timesert to repair/replace a differential drain plug? I recently replaced the stock plug with the TG Allen head style which appear to have stripped the threads. They went in smooth but I pulled them because they were loose and leaking after mardicrawl only to discover the stripped threads. The stock plugs won’t go back in.

I’ve read to either chase the threads with a tap or use a timesert as they hold better in a moderate torque application. Looking for a little more feedback before I screw it up worse and have to just weld it up.

weld it shut and be done with it, while you're under there grind it smooth. We've chased down more drain lugs on the trail that they're worth
 
weld it shut and be done with it, while you're under there grind it smooth. We've chased down more drain lugs on the trail that they're worth

Figured this was probably the best/easiest/most permanent option. Thanks!
 
This isn’t going to be fun...

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That pic was the old tire coming off. Gonna swap those TSLs to the bead locks and ditch the iroks. With that said, I have no doubt I’ll screw at least one up.

Not sure if anyone’s interested but the old iroks are going to be for sale. 36x13.5 15” rim.
 
That pic was the old tire coming off. Gonna swap those TSLs to the bead locks and ditch the iroks. With that said, I have no doubt I’ll screw at least one up.

Not sure if anyone’s interested but the old iroks are going to be for sale. 36x13.5 15” rim.

you might as well just start shopping for Reds, that's the direction we're all going or have already gone.
 
Yeah, I know. I’m in the same boat you were - stuck with 15” wheels. I’ll do it one of these days but need to do a little saving.
 
Yeah, I know. I’m in the same boat you were - stuck with 15” wheels. I’ll do it one of these days but need to do a little saving.

nope, 17s paid for and on their way. The tire hunt is on big time and just a matter of time.
 
Snevey's is the best place to get NEW Reds. They have the best prices and sometimes run no tax and free shipping.

Why go 39's when you can go 40's BFG KR3-S 40x12.50-17 Sticky Compound - so long as you have a few kids to mortgage ;)

Seriously though - Snevesoffroad has a Facebook page where they sometimes advertise sale prices on the Red Labels - still not cheap, but think it was less than most advertised prices....

Steve Doty
www.sneveysoffroad.com
530-255-4302
 
Not sure why you guys are talking about 40s here :flipoff2: . While that would be fun, it ain’t in the cards for this truck.
 
Pretty decent bit of rust on the inside of these wheels and especially along the inner bead. Should I try and get rid of most of this or do I risk damaging the inner bead contact area? I’ve got a s***ty HF soda blaster that would knock it off and shouldn’t gouge the wheel. Once done should I paint or just let it ride?

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